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Help getting oil pan back in!

citRon

NAXJA Forum User
96 4.0 4x4- needed to replace oil pump and rear main, so... Jeep on jackstands, took off starter, took off front shock's lower bolts, took off bellhousing plate, was able to get pan off, took oil pump off while pan was dropped, then wiggled pan all the way out. Finished repairs....can NOT get the pan back in!! I even disconnected the sway bar on both sides, took off the right tire and had my wife standing on the rotor to push the axle farther down, still no luck! I tore up the new pan gasket wrestling it around, got to get a new one tomorrow. What am I missing? I tried to take off the steering stabilizer, but it won't budge from the center link, even with a set of 2-jaw pullers- bent the puller!
Anybody got a suggestion or a trick I haven't tried? It can't be this hard!
 
oil pan

You need to take off the track bar, lower control arms at the dif, and shocks from the dif, that should do.
 
I'm sorry I can't help you, but this is a good time to tell your wife you need a lift kit. I had no problem doing what you are doing with a 4.5 lift.
 
Re: oil pan

89xXxj said:
You need to take off the track bar, lower control arms at the dif, and shocks from the dif, that should do.


shocks are off-undo the control arms and the track bar? Gee, that sounds like fun. Man, I knew it looked too easy....
 
Cox89XJ said:
I'm sorry I can't help you, but this is a good time to tell your wife you need a lift kit. I had no problem doing what you are doing with a 4.5 lift.

Oh yeah, at least I'm going to throw some spacers up front and bastard pack the rears for now..
 
Take your stock XJ jack. Flip it upside down and place it between the axle tube and the "frame". Jack up the frame. You will have plenty of clearance.
 
Install the pump with the pan in place. It's not the easiest thing to do but it works.
 
What's the problem? I just did this on my 88 (stock height) a few months ago, and didn't have any real trouble...

Jack up the front end to full droop (sounds like you did that already...)
If necessary, remove the stud nuts from the transmission mount and jack up the rear end of the transmission/transfer case - this buys you about an inch, and usually amkes the difference.

I have a habit of putting studs in (they stick out about an inch, and keep things lined up while I'm under there) and don't have any trouble.

When you buy the new gasket, get the 1996-up (if you aren't already.) The one-piece gasket is so much easier to wrestle with than the old-style four-piece (rails and ends...)

If you want to do studs as well, I use valve cover studs for the Small Block Chevvy engine (with stamped valve covers - they've got the right grip length) and put them in the third hole from each end of the side rails. It's just enough to keep things lined up while you hold the pan with one hand and put the nuts on (loosely!) with the other.

Torque the 1/4" screws (and nuts) to 7 pound-feet/84 pound-inches, and the 5/16" screws (the large ones in the corners) to 11 pound-feet/132 pound-inches. That is, unless you actually enjoy pain and want to do this over again in a week or so...

5-90
 
Trust me guys, the upside down jack forces the axle down in relationship to the engine. It works great for swapping coils as well.
 
Yeah now I am confused?!? Do you have the pump pickup in the right spot? If you bent it the pan won't go in.
 
no, the pickup screen isn't bent- it wasn't making contact witht he pan at all.
I'll try the jack trick, and then raising the tranny if that doesn't work...
 
I did this last week and didnt have a problem either.
 
old_man said:
Trust me guys, the upside down jack forces the axle down in relationship to the engine. It works great for swapping coils as well.

X2..it works like a charm. Here's a pic (not with the OEM jack, but a bottle jack) of what old_man is talking about. Jack pushes axle down, and holds it there safely, whilst you wrench:wave:

(pic is from Pete M, btw)

Jeff

jack_on_axle.jpg
 
langer1 said:
The odd thing is you got it out, so whats different now?
well, getting it out was no easy job either, but I managed. I was even able to get the pan in and started to bolt it up when I realized I left the bearings 'brace' off (on my 96 it has that spine looking thing that runs under all the bearings), so I took the pan back out, not too much trouble getting it back out, installed the brace, and with that on, it seems like it takes up just the amount of clearance I needed to get it in.
I didn't get time to mess with it today, but first thing tomorrow, I'm sticking my jack in there....
I'll let everyone know how it goes.
 
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