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Will rust in a jerry can hurt?

Mutant_Xj

NAXJA Forum User
I picked up two old military jerry cans during last years spring cleaning that someone was throwing out. I have painted one and it looks brand new(its stamped 71). but the inside has rust in it yet. I searched and asked around and have been told too many different things. I am going to fill it with sand and distilled water and shake it around to see if that will take some out. My friend Terry said I'll have to cut it apart sand the inside and weld it back together. My other friend said It would just make the gas crappy but the fuel filter would catch most of it. Another said the rust would destroy the inside of the engine. another told me to go to a motorcycle shop and get chemicals to treat it.

I picked them up because I cant afford new ones and I like that they are vintage. I need a cheap solution that wont kill my jeep, so now I ask you wonderful people what should I do?
 
Fill 'em with sand and water, throw in back of truck/heep and drive around for about a month...


They'll be good as new inside!


Oh, as long as the internal rust is surface it won't hurt. Ever looked inside the tank of an older vehicle? They can be pretty nasty.
 
I used something like this many years back on my 64 cj5 fuel tank,. It worked well.. It should work for your situation also... Maybe you dont need the sealent. The cleaning method sounds a little harsh but if you were up to it.. It might work...

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm


Phenol Novolac Epoxies are a new breed of chemical resistant materials, able to withstand permanent immersion of many harsh solvents, fuels and oils. This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface. Our new phenol novolac is more thixotropic, which means it ‘hangs’ on the tank walls during the coating process. This gives a thicker overall coating. There is more volume of material in the kit to allow for this.​
All traces of oil and gasoline should first be removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent. Dispose of the contaminated solution.
Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion.
Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air into the tank to aid drying.
Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty or Play-Doh. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should treat two x five gallon tanks) If you are only treating ONE 5 gal (or smaller) tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge this.
In a separate plastic container (margarine tub etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together. BAD MIXING AND BAD MEASURING IS THE #1 CAUSE OF FAILURE!!
Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the filler hole with Gladwrap and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all surfaces. Remove the filler cap,Gladwrap seal, and pour out any excess. Allow to drain upside down for a few minutes.
If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer.
Scrape off any excess with a sharp knife at this point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 f place and allow to cure overnight. In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f.

1 Pint Of Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer coats up to 2 x 5 gal tanks.
 
I`ve used the motorcycle gas tank chemicals with great results. It removes the rust with acid, then it coats the inside with a gasoline proof coating.
 
2 quarts of atf, and then about 6 very smooth river rocks or play ground rocks and shake, this will get the rust out of jerry cans, motor cycle tanks and about anything else. I have done 4 motorcycle tanks using this, and after about 30 min of shaking, just dumped contents out, washed with water, used the shop vac to dry it out, and then good to go.
 
We are talking surface rust not like crumbly rust right?

the sand might clean them, but i dont see how rust is bad but your not afraid of sand getting in the fuel system.

I have to agree with whomever mentioned how rusty the inside of a vehicle gas tank can be. My dads tank is rust on his 85 bmw M5 he has over 310,000 miles and no ill effects.

also if you like vintage check the http://www.sportsmansguide.com i see military jerry cans in there. Or check your local military surplus shop.

heres a NATO issue swiss can for 15 bones. i buy boots and all sorts of stuff from sportsman guide. 100% satisfaction guaranteed.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=318834
 
You can sand blast them too. Then use the motorcycle gas tank sealer kit on it if needed. I didn't bother, I threw my old ones out and replaced them when the local National auto had a sale on steel blitz cans for $12.99.
The trick is not to store them partially full, either full or totally dry.
My main problem was keeping them full, the seemed to develop a major leak whenever my son was a bit low on cash... very annoying..
 
RichP said:
You can sand blast them too. Then use the motorcycle gas tank sealer kit on it if needed. I didn't bother, I threw my old ones out and replaced them when the local National auto had a sale on steel blitz cans for $12.99.
The trick is not to store them partially full, either full or totally dry.
My main problem was keeping them full, the seemed to develop a major leak whenever my son was a bit low on cash... very annoying..


lol thats why you get about 6 of em, completely full, and lock em all together:D kind of difficult to move/drag over 100 lbs worth of fuel. course i'd find a way to lock the tops also :D
 
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