Purolator pure one

[RichP]

Well, since nobody carries Mobil-1 filters round here anymore I picked up a Purolator pure one [blue can] for the 2.5L TJ. Oil pressure is down to 20 psi, noticed it last nite, this engine has been running at 50psi, heading out in a few minutes to see if the AA is open and pickup a new sender but first I'm going to put on a K&N and see if that changes it.. The pure one I used is the PL14670, this may be the second issue I've had with purolator, first issue was that it took about 20 seconds for pressure to build on the 4.0L XJ on a cold start morning.
I also run only mobil-1...

[FELIX]

Wow, I've usually ran Purolator pure one's with no trouble @ all. I've recently switched to Motorcraft for a larger size & lower price. No issues there either.

Rob

[badron]

Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.

[fizassist]

Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.

I disagree. All an oil filter has to do is "not immediately make your engine blow up" for it to be acceptable to the general public. That is not equivalent to "doing the job just fine". What percentage of the population has done (or read) 100k mile comparisons of engine life for various brands of oil filters? Once you have a name established, all you need to do is avoid catastrophic accidents...

[RichP]

Slapped a K&N on there and back up to 40 at idle...from 10 with the pure one. Guess I can take the sender back...maybe run it to work tomorrow and see what happens...

[XgeekstarX]

i was using pureones and had no problem. 60+psi at first idle and about 40psi on a hot idle. i have since then switched over the motorcraft FL1A and have had the same luck. i read somewhere that the motorcraft filters are just a pureone with a different casing and cost half as much.

[carnuck]

That filter may be faulty or the wrong one for your rig. I always inspect mine before and after changes, especially if I have any pressure issues. I had my pressure drop when I had a Fram orange can on, and a buddy had the same prob. Turned out the filter blew apart inside and clogged up his oil gallery. I carefully poked around inside my pump's opening (and blew air back through the sending unit hole) to make sure no chunkies were going to screw with the pressure.
I'll stick with Wix or AC Delco from now on (both were highest rated by Consumer Reports)

[anony91xj]

I disagree. All an oil filter has to do is "not immediately make your engine blow up" for it to be acceptable to the general public. That is not equivalent to "doing the job just fine". What percentage of the population has done (or read) 100k mile comparisons of engine life for various brands of oil filters? Once you have a name established, all you need to do is avoid catastrophic accidents...

I've had several cars go well over 100k miles, and two so far over 200k miles on cheap 10w-30 oil and basic Purolator, Fram, whatever filters. Never had an engine problem related to oil or the filter. I believe the key is changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles...problems start happening when the oil is not changed frequently enough. Just take a look at Toyota's engine sludge problems. Sure it was a design flaw to an extent, but the main problem was that Toyota recommends changing the oil every 7500 miles, which is WAY too long between changes. Toyotas that follow this interval have major engine problems at relatively low mileage, while Toyotas that get an oil change every 3000 miles, even at Jiffy Lube with the cheapest oil and filters in the world, seem to avoid this issue. Toyota has since changed their recommended oil change interval to fix the problem.

Also, something to consider with the oil pressure issue. I believe that pressure sender measures oil pressure before the oil enters the filter. Therefore, higher pressure means more restriction in the filter, which is not necessarily a good thing, as that's restricted flow to the rest of your engine. If the sensor measures after-filter pressure, I'm wrong though. Ether way, what does the FSM specify for oil pressure?

[asatxj]

Note for all you Dutch folks (self included) the Supertec from Wallyworld is identical to the AC Delco filter. Also cheaper. I run them and have no pressure issues, also change every 3k. One more tip. Motorcraft oil is good stuff (some grades are semi syn) and is pretty reasonable.

[knottshawk]

I've had several cars go well over 100k miles, and two so far over 200k miles on cheap 10w-30 oil and basic Purolator, Fram, whatever filters. Never had an engine problem related to oil or the filter. I believe the key is changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles...problems start happening when the oil is not changed frequently enough. Just take a look at Toyota's engine sludge problems. Sure it was a design flaw to an extent, but the main problem was that Toyota recommends changing the oil every 7500 miles, which is WAY too long between changes. Toyotas that follow this interval have major engine problems at relatively low mileage, while Toyotas that get an oil change every 3000 miles, even at Jiffy Lube with the cheapest oil and filters in the world, seem to avoid this issue. Toyota has since changed their recommended oil change interval to fix the problem.


So basically you're using the "I'm 90 years old and I smoke 3 packs of cigs and eat 8 lbs of bacon every day therefore everyone should treat their bodies like garbage to live to age 90" argument??

If every filter works the same, why not just wad up some toilet paper and cram that in the oil filter adapter and call it good? Maybe the engines you had which got over 200k would have gone over 400k with good filters.

I absolutely agree with your opinion on changing your oil regularly, but to say that all filters are the same is just not accurate. Mechanics generally agree that startup is the hardest time on an engine (unless you're abusing it or towing up hills) and the cheap filters, like FRAM, tend to allow oil to drain back out while sitting. That forces startup with less oil on your parts.

Better filters = cheap insurance IMO.

[knottshawk]

If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.

You mean like Pennzoil? Parafin based oils are notorious by engine rebuilders to be a big problem....and pennzoil is a parafin based motor oil.

Marketing is a powerful thing to the american public, and some companies stick around because of it. Or, like pennzoil, they were one of the early big companies and got a grip on the market early...then generations of dads hand down the "I only run pennzoil son" mentality to their sons and so it continues.

There are plenty of BAD companies and products out there that aren't still around because they "make a good product", they're around because the general public doesn't know any better.

[Thayer]

If every filter works the same, why not just wad up some toilet paper and cram that in the oil filter adapter and call it good?
http://vs01.tvsecure.com/cgi-bin/vs01037/faq/smartfaq.cgi?answer=1029808653&id=1025650687

[anony91xj]

I absolutely agree with your opinion on changing your oil regularly, but to say that all filters are the same is just not accurate. Mechanics generally agree that startup is the hardest time on an engine (unless you're abusing it or towing up hills) and the cheap filters, like FRAM, tend to allow oil to drain back out while sitting. That forces startup with less oil on your parts.

Better filters = cheap insurance IMO.

The hardest part on an engine is indisputably startup, when it has some time before oil pressure builds. Even when towing or driving really hard, there's still oil pressure there.

Most filters today, Fram included, have the check valve to prevent the filter from emptying when the engine is shut off. Only the cheapest of cheap generic oil filters, like those sold by Jiffy Lube, don't have this valve.

Paying $10 for a K&N or Mobil 1 filter is getting ripped off.

[lawsoncl]

The hardest part on an engine is indisputably startup, when it has some time before oil pressure builds. Even when towing or driving really hard, there's still oil pressure there.

Most filters today, Fram included, have the check valve to prevent the filter from emptying when the engine is shut off. Only the cheapest of cheap generic oil filters, like those sold by Jiffy Lube, don't have this valve.

Paying $10 for a K&N or Mobil 1 filter is getting ripped off.

The problem is that cheaper oil filters have poor quality anti-drainback and bypass valves that leak. I've noticed that if I use a Fram filter it takes longer for the oil pressure to come up for a cold start and the oil pressure is lower. BTW, the oil pressure gauge is after the filter. It's not clear in the drawings in the FSM, but it does list clogged filter as a reason for low oil pressure.

[outlander]

Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.


I guess fram would be the exception....

[FUNKYTEE5]

I used Purolator pure one filters in the past and they seemed to be restrictive. I lost 10-20psi overall. I changed to WIX after reading decent test results etc.. Here's some good reading info for y'all.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

[mrbill3]

I'll stick with Wix or AC Delco from now on (both were highest rated by Consumer Reports)
From several personal experiences, I make a point to avoid whatever Consumer Reports rates highest. For that matter I now avoid Consumer Reports all together.

[heyhar]

I always used Fram, from back in the 70's. But since I've had the Jeeps (especially my '92 with the upside down filter), I noticed a few seconds of dry run clatter on a cold start. A while ago there was a lengthy thread on this very topic, and since, I've started using Motorcraft FL-1A, and no more clatter! Also, the extra capacity doesn't hurt. Oil pressure always good, hot or cold. That's my vote...Ray

[XJ4PLAY]

per 96 FSM;

"... MINIMUM oil pressure is 13 psi at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pressure is 37-75 psi at 1600 rpm or more."

[Ramsey]

Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
Stay away from Fram, for the longest I thought I was having issues until I quit using fram, made all the difference in the world. Now its Mobil 1 oil and filter.

[WB9YZU]

Yeah, another useless thread about who makes the best filter or oil ! :bs:

Everyone has their brand preference, that is why this exact thread gets played out every week or two. Generally some newb starts it innocently enough with "What filter do you think is best?..." and the thread turns into 4+ pages.

Looks like RichP got his bad filter replaced. Good deal :)

Move along folks, nothing to see here ...

[CW]

Yeah, another useless thread about who makes the best filter or oil ! :bs:

Everyone has their brand preference, that is why this exact thread gets played out every week or two. Generally some newb starts it innocently enough with "What filter do you think is best?..." and the thread turns into 4+ pages.

Looks like RichP got his bad filter replaced. Good deal :)

Move along folks, nothing to see here ...

Why do you care so much? It's not a big deal. Our dues cover the bandwidth and the the thread may save somebody the trouble of dealing with a poor quality oil or filter. This is the oem tech forum afterall it's fairly basic. Go appoint yourself moderator of the den or something.

[WB9YZU]

Why do you care so much? It's not a big deal. Our dues cover the bandwidth and the the thread may save somebody the trouble of dealing with a poor quality oil or filter. This is the oem tech forum afterall it's fairly basic. Go appoint yourself moderator of the den or something.

For the same reason folks care that they see repeated reposts of "How much lift do I need", or "What lift kit shoud I buy". If folks want the answer to those questions, there is probably an open thread. Same with filters and oils, they have been covered- recently and adnausium.

Rich's post should have been in OT 'cause it was not tech. He was just complaining his store was out of his brand and he got a bad filter. Pretty basic. Now we have 2 pages of "my filter is better than yours" and now 'brand bashing'. Soo, I am saying "Enough of this, let's get on to some 'real' tech questions".

Basic rules of oil changes and filters, regardless of brand: Change them often to keep your engine healthy.

I can have my say here also. As you stated, the dues covere the bandwidth... Don't like it? Report my post :D

[carnuck]

Frams are so bad that Ford sent out a notice to all Ford diesel owners stating that if their rig comes in for an engine warranty and it has an Orange Fram on it, warranty will be denied!

[lawsoncl]

Frams are so bad that Ford sent out a notice to all Ford diesel owners stating that if their rig comes in for an engine warranty and it has an Orange Fram on it, warranty will be denied!

Which of course is completely illegal uner the Magnuson-Moss Warranty act.

[Ramsey]

Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act.

If they can prove it...

[carnuck]

They have proved it (or their lawyers wouldn't have allowed that notice to be sent out) and by sending notice to original owners plus posting in newspapers they have notified the general public. Read the fine print of the warranty act. If the part is not up to OEM specification, warranty may be refused.

here is the loophole in the act that allows the manufacturer to argue with you. This is a quote from the FT C web site about the M-M Act.
"While you cannot use a tie-in sales provision, your warranty need not cover use of replacement parts, repairs, or maintenance that is inappropriate for your product. " "Although tie-in sales provisions generally are not allowed, you can include such a provision in your warranty if you can demonstrate to the satisfaction of the FTC that your product will not work properly without a specified item or service."

All they have to do is an oil analysis that shows chunks of Fram filter paper in the oil and you may as well wipe your butt with the warranty paper! (went through that with a shop that was supposed to be doing oil changes on shop vehicles and they only wiped off the filters to make them look clean! Can you say new engine through a lawsuit?)