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Purolator pure one

RichP

RichP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Effort, Pa
Well, since nobody carries Mobil-1 filters round here anymore I picked up a Purolator pure one [blue can] for the 2.5L TJ. Oil pressure is down to 20 psi, noticed it last nite, this engine has been running at 50psi, heading out in a few minutes to see if the AA is open and pickup a new sender but first I'm going to put on a K&N and see if that changes it.. The pure one I used is the PL14670, this may be the second issue I've had with purolator, first issue was that it took about 20 seconds for pressure to build on the 4.0L XJ on a cold start morning.
I also run only mobil-1...
 
Wow, I've usually ran Purolator pure one's with no trouble @ all. I've recently switched to Motorcraft for a larger size & lower price. No issues there either.

Rob
 
Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
 
badron said:
Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
Click to expand...

I disagree. All an oil filter has to do is "not immediately make your engine blow up" for it to be acceptable to the general public. That is not equivalent to "doing the job just fine". What percentage of the population has done (or read) 100k mile comparisons of engine life for various brands of oil filters? Once you have a name established, all you need to do is avoid catastrophic accidents...
 
Slapped a K&N on there and back up to 40 at idle...from 10 with the pure one. Guess I can take the sender back...maybe run it to work tomorrow and see what happens...
 
i was using pureones and had no problem. 60+psi at first idle and about 40psi on a hot idle. i have since then switched over the motorcraft FL1A and have had the same luck. i read somewhere that the motorcraft filters are just a pureone with a different casing and cost half as much.
 
That filter may be faulty or the wrong one for your rig. I always inspect mine before and after changes, especially if I have any pressure issues. I had my pressure drop when I had a Fram orange can on, and a buddy had the same prob. Turned out the filter blew apart inside and clogged up his oil gallery. I carefully poked around inside my pump's opening (and blew air back through the sending unit hole) to make sure no chunkies were going to screw with the pressure.
I'll stick with Wix or AC Delco from now on (both were highest rated by Consumer Reports)
 
fizassist said:
I disagree. All an oil filter has to do is "not immediately make your engine blow up" for it to be acceptable to the general public. That is not equivalent to "doing the job just fine". What percentage of the population has done (or read) 100k mile comparisons of engine life for various brands of oil filters? Once you have a name established, all you need to do is avoid catastrophic accidents...
Click to expand...

I've had several cars go well over 100k miles, and two so far over 200k miles on cheap 10w-30 oil and basic Purolator, Fram, whatever filters. Never had an engine problem related to oil or the filter. I believe the key is changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles...problems start happening when the oil is not changed frequently enough. Just take a look at Toyota's engine sludge problems. Sure it was a design flaw to an extent, but the main problem was that Toyota recommends changing the oil every 7500 miles, which is WAY too long between changes. Toyotas that follow this interval have major engine problems at relatively low mileage, while Toyotas that get an oil change every 3000 miles, even at Jiffy Lube with the cheapest oil and filters in the world, seem to avoid this issue. Toyota has since changed their recommended oil change interval to fix the problem.

Also, something to consider with the oil pressure issue. I believe that pressure sender measures oil pressure before the oil enters the filter. Therefore, higher pressure means more restriction in the filter, which is not necessarily a good thing, as that's restricted flow to the rest of your engine. If the sensor measures after-filter pressure, I'm wrong though. Ether way, what does the FSM specify for oil pressure?
 
Note for all you Dutch folks (self included) the Supertec from Wallyworld is identical to the AC Delco filter. Also cheaper. I run them and have no pressure issues, also change every 3k. One more tip. Motorcraft oil is good stuff (some grades are semi syn) and is pretty reasonable.
 
anony91xj said:
I've had several cars go well over 100k miles, and two so far over 200k miles on cheap 10w-30 oil and basic Purolator, Fram, whatever filters. Never had an engine problem related to oil or the filter. I believe the key is changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles...problems start happening when the oil is not changed frequently enough. Just take a look at Toyota's engine sludge problems. Sure it was a design flaw to an extent, but the main problem was that Toyota recommends changing the oil every 7500 miles, which is WAY too long between changes. Toyotas that follow this interval have major engine problems at relatively low mileage, while Toyotas that get an oil change every 3000 miles, even at Jiffy Lube with the cheapest oil and filters in the world, seem to avoid this issue. Toyota has since changed their recommended oil change interval to fix the problem.
Click to expand...

So basically you're using the "I'm 90 years old and I smoke 3 packs of cigs and eat 8 lbs of bacon every day therefore everyone should treat their bodies like garbage to live to age 90" argument??

If every filter works the same, why not just wad up some toilet paper and cram that in the oil filter adapter and call it good? Maybe the engines you had which got over 200k would have gone over 400k with good filters.

I absolutely agree with your opinion on changing your oil regularly, but to say that all filters are the same is just not accurate. Mechanics generally agree that startup is the hardest time on an engine (unless you're abusing it or towing up hills) and the cheap filters, like FRAM, tend to allow oil to drain back out while sitting. That forces startup with less oil on your parts.

Better filters = cheap insurance IMO.
 
badron said:
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
Click to expand...

You mean like Pennzoil? Parafin based oils are notorious by engine rebuilders to be a big problem....and pennzoil is a parafin based motor oil.

Marketing is a powerful thing to the american public, and some companies stick around because of it. Or, like pennzoil, they were one of the early big companies and got a grip on the market early...then generations of dads hand down the "I only run pennzoil son" mentality to their sons and so it continues.

There are plenty of BAD companies and products out there that aren't still around because they "make a good product", they're around because the general public doesn't know any better.
 
knottshawk said:
I absolutely agree with your opinion on changing your oil regularly, but to say that all filters are the same is just not accurate. Mechanics generally agree that startup is the hardest time on an engine (unless you're abusing it or towing up hills) and the cheap filters, like FRAM, tend to allow oil to drain back out while sitting. That forces startup with less oil on your parts.

Better filters = cheap insurance IMO.
Click to expand...

The hardest part on an engine is indisputably startup, when it has some time before oil pressure builds. Even when towing or driving really hard, there's still oil pressure there.

Most filters today, Fram included, have the check valve to prevent the filter from emptying when the engine is shut off. Only the cheapest of cheap generic oil filters, like those sold by Jiffy Lube, don't have this valve.

Paying $10 for a K&N or Mobil 1 filter is getting ripped off.
 
Last edited:
anony91xj said:
The hardest part on an engine is indisputably startup, when it has some time before oil pressure builds. Even when towing or driving really hard, there's still oil pressure there.

Most filters today, Fram included, have the check valve to prevent the filter from emptying when the engine is shut off. Only the cheapest of cheap generic oil filters, like those sold by Jiffy Lube, don't have this valve.

Paying $10 for a K&N or Mobil 1 filter is getting ripped off.
Click to expand...

The problem is that cheaper oil filters have poor quality anti-drainback and bypass valves that leak. I've noticed that if I use a Fram filter it takes longer for the oil pressure to come up for a cold start and the oil pressure is lower. BTW, the oil pressure gauge is after the filter. It's not clear in the drawings in the FSM, but it does list clogged filter as a reason for low oil pressure.
 
badron said:
Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
Click to expand...


I guess fram would be the exception....
 
carnuck said:
I'll stick with Wix or AC Delco from now on (both were highest rated by Consumer Reports)
Click to expand...
From several personal experiences, I make a point to avoid whatever Consumer Reports rates highest. For that matter I now avoid Consumer Reports all together.
 
I always used Fram, from back in the 70's. But since I've had the Jeeps (especially my '92 with the upside down filter), I noticed a few seconds of dry run clatter on a cold start. A while ago there was a lengthy thread on this very topic, and since, I've started using Motorcraft FL-1A, and no more clatter! Also, the extra capacity doesn't hurt. Oil pressure always good, hot or cold. That's my vote...Ray
 
badron said:
Any brand name filter will do the job just fine.
If a company has been around a long time It's because they make a good produced at a fare price. There just no other way for a company to stay around for long.
Click to expand...
Stay away from Fram, for the longest I thought I was having issues until I quit using fram, made all the difference in the world. Now its Mobil 1 oil and filter.
 
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