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Front CA drop brackets vs new arms ?

spacomponents

NAXJA Forum User
I'm trying my best to decipher the tons of info here, but have a basic question:

Is it an advantage to use control arm drop brackets (either weld-on or bolt-on) on a 3.5" lift, vs. using the typical new lower-only arms that come with an RE or other quality kit?

I'm planning 99% street use and rubber-bushing type arms if I end up replacing them. planning to buy an '01 XJ and building it up. Thanks!
 
One acronym: JKS.

When it comes to short arms and drop brackets, the adjustable JKS arms are the best available for ride comfort and flex. (From my experience)

We ran the JKS arms for over a year before moving to the TnT Y-Link. It was as good if not better at times in terms of comfort on the road. And I highly doubt anyone will question the strength of the JKS arms. Used to drag them over ruts, rocks, concrete blocks, old cars, and trees without issue.

The drop brackets from RE are very good with the braces.
 
Most definatly, If your going to 3.5" on a late model, take it a step further to 4.5", aftermarket arms and drop brackets. For what you described, I'd do the RE Superride arms (rubber ends, good ride). With drop brackets and decent shocks it would be like a tall caddy. ;)
 
thanks for this advise. I thought about 4.5" springs, BUT, I'm planning to use 7100's or similar reservoir shocks, which all seem to be made for 3 to 4" of lift.
 
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actually you can order bilsteins in several more configurations that just 3-4 inch... Just convert your front shock mounts and there are plenty of options...

About the Drop brackets... not needed for 3.5" springs but you can put them on if you like.

Why, spend all this money and effort for a lift that is going to spend 99% of its time on the road? Seems ridiculous to me... Maybe step back and look at everything before wasting money?
 
lots of people spend HUGE bucks for their 12" lifts out here, bunch of posers who never have been off-road. I'm just realistic. I want a cool XJ to go anywhere in Baja, use it as a daily driver, and not get stuck too often. I actually prefer what racers do, and build in good travel and not lift any more than needed.
 
I went with a short arm lift in the stock pockets and later went to DB's. I should have done the DB's from day one. The ride is fantastic with the RE Super Ride control arms and it flexes well enough to go anywhere I want. 91 posted a nice front view below....I edited to add this rear shot flexing on the Golden Crack.

smallcrack.jpg
 
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spacomponents said:
John90XJ, what amount of lift, total are you at presently?

The photo represents ~4" of lift and 33's.

I'm presently running 6.5" and 33's. The drop brackets make it feel about the same as having a 2" budget boost. The arms have a slight downward angle that doesn't negatively affect ride.

Here is my spec sheet on my club site:

http://www.pnwjeep.com/Members/john_herrick.html

Need more photos? Feel free to drop me a PM.
 
Drop Brackets allow you to use a shorter, or near-stock length control arm in a relatively flat position. That starts your flex from a more neutral position so it will flex down farther. Having the rear mount point of the control arm lower also helps reduce bumps and jarring on the road.

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html Put 'em on after 4" or look for a long-arm solution (Clayton's, TnT)

new_arms.jpg
 
Mine flexed well with 35's, 4" sheet metal cut out of fenders with TJ flares, 8"es of lift, RE drop brackets, Tereflex coils, BB, Rancho 9000's, RE HD Trac bar and DB. The tires covered up the DB's, so dropping off ledges I didn't hit a thing... well maybe the sliders now and again.

635256179205_0_ALB.jpg


68456311805_0_ALB.jpg
 
I ran at 4.5" with no drop brackets (with longer arms) and added the drop brackets later -you could do the same. I thought the right with no db's was pretty ok - until I had them. You'll get by, really bumpy roads will jar you a little bit. Later when you add drop brackets it will feel like getting into a cadillac.

-C
 
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