XJ Ft. Brake Pads...Inner or Outer Pad???

How do you tell the difference between the inner & outer front disc brake pads on a 1989 XJ?

Visible differences in the backing plate/pad assembly exist and are fairly obvious but I do not know which pad must be placed against the caliper piston or which is the outer pad. The Factory Service Manual offers no help on this issue.

One of the metal backing plates has two small holes above and below the pad. The other backing plate does not have these holes and it has a longer or larger pad.

My old pads were installed with the smaller pad (backing plate with holes) as the inner pad. The left & right sides were installed the same.

Rick

I would install them the same way they came out. Have you had any issues the way they were before, besides they needed replaced?

I have an '89 also, did my brakes a few months ago...The smaller pad is the inner one!

12GaugeXJ - Thanks for the response but my question was an attempt to learn how the pads should be done not just duplicate the work that had been performed previously. I only performed rear drum brake work on my 1989 XJ since I've owned it; never front brake work. Just being cautious.

Johnny V. - Thanks for your input; it helped. I had the pads and new calipers installed as they were when removed before posting this question in an effort to be prepared. As far as that woman in your Avatar is concerned I suggest you marry here or have a lengthy affair with her; she's worth it! If you've decided she's not for you send her my way!

Thanks Guys,

Rick

Glad to have helped!

Don't think you or I want to mess with her...here's her mug shot:

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6686/1849/1600/207331214399.0.jpg

Here's her story:

http://mypetjawa.mu.nu/archives/173119.php

http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/14398343.htm

The inner and outer pads are a bit different - the "inner" pad should have the corners cut a little more deeply toward the hub, allowing it to clear the caliper mount bracket.

This is a good example of why you should, sometimes, do things the way they were done before - they won't fit the other way! If you try to reverse the pads, the "inner" (actually "outer") pad will end up hanging on the caliper bracket and won't retract far enough to get out of the rotor's way. You'll end up wearing SOMETHING out quick - it's just a toss-up as to what (probalby lose both parts, due to hardening of the rotor disc.)

While you've got everything torn to bits, take the rotor off, take a brass wire brush or wire wheel to the "slide rails" that the pad and caliper ride on, and clean them up. Take some "dry graphite" lock lubricant and rub it into the rail surfaces. Wipe off excess, and reassemble.

I've always been a little leery of using any liquid or semi-liquid lubricant down there, just because it will attract dust and become something more like "grinding paste" than lubricant. Either it will stick everything together (which sucks,) or it will make you need to replace parts (which REALLY sucks.) I've been using dry graphite for a dozen years or so, and it works well. I am, however, thinking of experimenting with some of the "dry teflon/dry moly" coatings out there, just to see what they're like. No hurry on that, but I'll report when I do. I haven't run across anything "production" that is made so well that I can't make it better...

5-90

Is there a aftermarket pad that works better than the oem equipment ? last longer stops better