View Full Version : 1.25" solid round stock for tie rod/drag
barillms
December 5th, 2006, 20:23
Looking to buy some 1.25" solid round stock for my tie rod and drag link.
Is mild steel "hot roll" strong enough for a tie rod and drag link?
They have "cold roll" too which is triple the price.
I was quoted $27 for 10 feet of the "hot roll".
Just curious if anyone knows?
RESET
December 12th, 2006, 01:31
Tube is actually stronger and less prone to bending than solid.
BrettM
December 12th, 2006, 16:06
Tube is actually stronger and less prone to bending than solid.
completely and utterly wrong
RESET
December 12th, 2006, 17:43
I guess that I have been told wrong then. I have no access to any proof other than hearsay so I will leave it at that.
CanMan
December 12th, 2006, 18:22
completely and utterly wrong
He said utter with a ly at the end... :gag:
:D
RESET
December 13th, 2006, 18:01
I will try to redeem my self by passing along some information gotten from a good source. According to the Quality control manager here, OEMs use hot rolled for tie rods and drag links.
rehab
December 25th, 2006, 08:42
I will try to redeem my self by passing along some information gotten from a good source. According to the Quality control manager here, OEMs use hot rolled for tie rods and drag links.
and thats why they always bend...LOL yeah i have no clue
Rawbrown
December 25th, 2006, 23:12
Hot rolled? Shit, allot of that stuff is stamped/hotworked....
heapxj
December 30th, 2006, 22:57
I bought 1 3/8" solid steel for my steering system. I'm not sure if it is the strongest material but I bought 12' of it for $20 and I know it'll hold up a hell of alot better than the junk Rusty's system I have now.
lapisxj
January 18th, 2007, 13:30
completely and utterly wrong
I too was under the thinking that the tubing is stronger, maybe I'm thinking torsionally speaking (like a driveshaft) instead.
BrettM
January 21st, 2007, 23:25
I too was under the thinking that the tubing is stronger, maybe I'm thinking torsionally speaking (like a driveshaft) instead.
nope, not stronger there either.
2xtreme
January 30th, 2007, 17:17
I too was under the thinking that the tubing is stronger, maybe I'm thinking torsionally speaking (like a driveshaft) instead.
What you guys are probably hearing/thinking is based on strength per pound. For the same size material (1" solid vs 1" tube) the solid will be stronger (assuming same material, etc) but the solid will obviously weight significantly more. On the other hand if you compare the 1" solid piece to a piece of the same weight of say 2" tube then it is possible that the 2" tube could be stronger.
Michael
yellowxj
January 30th, 2007, 18:28
1 1/2" x .25" wall tubing, 3/4" threaded inserts, 3/4" rod ends w/ 5/8" hole...hasnt broken yet for me...utterly sure of it :)
MrShoeBoy
January 31st, 2007, 12:10
I have 1.25"x.375 DOM thats been drilled and tapped for 7/8"x18 TREs from the shop local to me. Its held up fine under my XJ and I have yet to see one come back to the shop bent up or broken.
AARON
tealcherokee
January 31st, 2007, 12:27
the argument of solid vs tube will go on forever. the part people miss is the size of the "hole" in the tubing. as the hole gets smaller (thicker wall) the tubing gets stronger, but exponentially (the increase is less and less)
so 1" OD .75" ID (.125" wall) is weaker than 1" OD .5" ID (.25" wall), but its not half as weak.
so it gets to a point where a certain OD/ID combination is ALMOST as strong as solid, but still with a significant weight difference.
theres a formula for this, unfortunatly i dont remember it. I hope what i said makes sense.
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