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Control arms and drop brackets

S

simplyXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
sandy, utah
I just scored some almost new drop brackets from the junkyard for $20 bucks... I am getting death wobble BAD! I have a 5" lift currently. Will the drop brackets be enough to kill the wobble and what other problems will I have with stock arms? Should I get new arms and do the drop brackets? If I do get arms as well, what size?
 
You're getting DW is before adding the drop brackets?

If so, just adding them alone may fix your problem. They help restore factory suspension angles. You can use stock arms.

You should also plan to check the condition of your bushings, tie rod ends, tire balance, wheel runout (are they still round) and everything else in the front end. DW can come from a lot of different sources.
 
Yeah I am also changing my tie rod system because I smashed it up on rocks so I think the drop brackets will fix the DW but I was wondering what else new control arms would help and what size I would need for a 5" lift?
 
Really? I thought they would do it... It didn't happen till I put on the lift and the only thing that could have been affected when I put on the lift would be the control arm angle and it started immediatly after the lift was on.
 
simplyXJ said:
Yeah I am also changing my tie rod system because I smashed it up on rocks so I think the drop brackets will fix the DW but I was wondering what else new control arms would help and what size I would need for a 5" lift?
Click to expand...

I would stick with the stock arms until you get your other issues figured out. I wouldn't spend any money unil you know what's really driving your problem.
 
If you're running a 5" lift on stock control arms, it's the likely culprit. Your caster is all boogered up and your steering will feel terrible. You may not have death wobble but the ride should be awful. Drop brackets will get you as close to stock again as you can get without taking off your lift.
 
simplyXJ said:
Really? I thought they would do it... It didn't happen till I put on the lift and the only thing that could have been affected when I put on the lift would be the control arm angle and it started immediatly after the lift was on.
Click to expand...
There are WAY more things that can effect DW than that. Read up on it. The usual causes are loose items in the front end somewhere. Drop brackets help with ride quality.
 
Yeah I'll check all the stuff in the steering/ front suspension before I add new arms. I'm hoping the new tie rod system will do it... Who do I take it to that can change wheel bearings? Can an alignment shop do it?
 
John90XJ said:
You should also plan to check the condition of your bushings, tie rod ends, tire balance, wheel runout (are they still round) and everything else in the front end. DW can come from a lot of different sources.
Click to expand...
x2...it's gonna be on this list....
 
Starscream918 said:
Eh, drop brackets shouldn't really cure DW. You need to look elsewhere. Check for anything at all that could be loose.
Click to expand...

Agreed. When hunting down death wobble, the amount of lift and control arm angles would be the last on the list. Having crappy control arm angles just makes your rig ride like shit, it doesn't really cause death wobble.
 
starts wobbling pretty bad at 35-40mph? have to slow back down to get it to stop...

here's a test...start your jeep and turn the wheel back and forth a little. watch how it reacts, you might see movement in the axle side to side a little and the steering doesnt react right away.

guarantee its most likely your track bar. buy a Rubicon Express bar and call it a day.
 
Are you sure it's death wobble and not just a lousy ride?

Can you describe what it does when you think you have DW?
 
You can do the wheel bearings yourself, its not a hard job. You do need a 13mm-12 point socket and a 36mm socket (I think???). The bearings are in a complete "hub". They will cost $100+ for the parts (for each side).

When I had the DW I replaced everything that could have caused it and at my wit's end-when everyone said "it can't be lca's", I replaced them with BDS fixed lowers and no more DW....just my .02
 
Yeah I have an adjustable track bar and I'll see if it's that. The alignment shop said I have a bad wheel bearing so also prob that, and I had a shot "diagonal tie rod end". That is to say, the un-adjustable end on my diagonal rod. So, I think it'll be numerous things causing it and yes I'm sure it's DW. It's anywhere above 45mph if I hit a bump just right and I have to dang near stop to get it to stop. So, I will change tie rods, wheel bearing, check track bar, and rut drop arms on while changing Control arm bushings! This is going to take a while and cost a lot!
 
If you have been having DW problems, you should change ALL of your steering out. Tie rod, draglink, etc. DW till tear the shit out of your existing parts, and the ones that aren't causing the DW now will already be loose, and will cause the new parts to wear out faster.
 
Yeah that is what I'm worried about... I think it may be my track bar axle mount that started it because I have tightened that in the past and it prob killed my other items that I have to now replace.
 
*nod*

Steering and brakes are two places not to mess around, and not to get cheap. If i were you, I'd look at getting a full V8 ZJ steering setup and bolt under there. Probably run you around $200. I can get a list of all the part numbers if you need. It's more or less exactly the same as the XJ stuff, but the tie rod is much beefier.. just bolts in, no mods required.

Oh look, I had it nice and handy.

Tie Rod End (driver side wheel) - ES3096L
2x Adjuster Sleeve ES2079S
Tie Rod - DS1312
Drag Link X- DS1238 X
Tie Rod End (near pitman arm) X- ES3096L
 
Well that Is mighty nice of you! haha Who is the manufacture of these with those part #'s? Would it be better to do this or go with an after market high steer system? Are they much more $$$?
 
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