Aussie into D35 - grinding for clearance

First things first:

1. 96 XJ, 4.0, auto, 242, open D35, will get 2" boost for now and 31" MTs
2. I've been searching for an hour.
3. Yes, I'm going to put money into my D35 - I'll only be running 31"s, I want to keep the ABS, and it's a daily driver for my wife and I and we get a lot of snow here in Ontario so I don't want to lock the front instead.


I'm hoping the Aussie will show up in my Christmas stocking.
So for those of you who have installed an Aussie in your D35, did you run across this clearance issue requiring some grinding of the carrier:

http://www.offroadlockers.com/display/manualdana3035.html

If so, how involved was the process? I only have a dremmel - will that do the job if necessary? How much material needs to be removed and from where? Anyone have pictures? This won't be my first time pulling axles but will be my first time installing a locker.

Thanks all...

Ok, thanks VampireJeep - hope I don't have any grinding to do either. And thanks for the warning on the shims & thrust washers.

Cheers

on the subject, I am in Petawawa, Ontario. I'm looking at getting an Aussie for the D30. From what I can understand the lunchbox is better suited to the front, where it won't always be used. So when you are taking corners your rear end will work the way its supposed to. I know the Aussie will let things move the way they should, but with snow n ice n such will it still work that well???
I emailed Aussie USA, if you are expecting one for Christmas, tell whoever you expecting it from that they can order from them, and the shipping should one be like $34US and customs shoulnd't be applied as its a "Antique Auto Part"
My quote from Aussie was $229.99 Locker, $34.50 Shipping and they say that should be it (both US$$)
If you get this for Christmas please post up your thoughts on it for on-road driving. I hope to get mine after new years, will post my thoughts aswell.

I had to do a 'little' grinding on my d44 carrier to get it to fit.

a dremmel with a GOOD carbide bit (like $10 at ACE Hardware) would work famously... I gound mine with a file though, so that should tell you there is very little material that actually has to be removed...

Thanks XJRanger - I have a carbide bit set so I should be good. Thanks for the advice.

Beakie -
I did a lot of research on the subject and everything I read pointed to locking the front (D30) first. Here's where I ramble on like an expert - actual experts should chime in if I've screwed something up here but the subject's been beaten to death anyway. Just search "locker front" or something like that.

The main arguments for a front locker:

1. When climbing, weight is transfered to the rear, which helps plant the rear tires (helping them grip) but unloads the fronts. Having the front locked means the front can help pull the truck up the hill even when one front tire lifts off the ground.

2. An auto locker isn't locked unless power is being applied to it, so when in 2WD, the front still behaves like an open diff (no clicking, tire chirping, lurching around corners etc.) and is apparently pretty transparent. I have no personal experience, that's just what I've read.

3. Most people upgrade the rear axle once or even twice before swapping out the front D30, so spending some money on the D30 is a good investment (versus putting $300 into a D35 only to upgrade to a 8.25, 8.8 or D44 a year later).

But the winter driving issue is what kiboshed all these logical reasons for me. With an auto locker in the front in 4WD, both front wheels will want to turn at the same speed when you're accelerating thru a turn. This creates major understeer (or push) and reduces your turning radius especially in snow and ice, possibly causing you to go sliding straight instead of making the corner. If you're not paying attention, this could be dangerous and my wife will be taking our baby girl around in our XJ. She's an excellent driver, I just don't feel it's smart to make this mod to our family vehicle. Also, I've justified investing in the D35 because as I mentioned before, I want to retain the ABS (family reasons again) and I'll only be running 31" tires and not stressing it too much.

If Santa's good to me, I'll take pics of the install and let you know how much I love it (which I'm told I will).

well you certainly have put more thought into this than I have.
I have all your plus points as mine, and actually your negative too.
after reading this thread
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101966&highlight=aussie
I figured that the front was the way to go for me.
I take it you expect to be driving in 4x4 during your daily driving? If thats the plan, yes locking the front would cause problems when your going around corners.
I don't like driving in 4x4 unless I need it, so straight aways and maybe stuck or getting someone unstuck.
I am now kinda interested in the locked rear end tho.
I would think the same shitty roads that will cause the front to push off the road would cause the back end to lock up fully and loose control of the rear end around corners.
Obviously I have no experience, or much knowledge on this subjet other than what I have read, so when your done I look forward to your experience being shared.
Hope Santa is good to you... I am hoping for a welder, or a bunch of C Tire certificates to get my own.