Regear Vs Power

Well, I know the common is to regear for larger tires, but esp around here for some reason no one will do that for a reasonable price, so I have been considering power upgrades for the time being. Anyone got any input as to if dropping 1500 or so into a stroker or power upgrades would be a better choice or spending it to regear? I could probably keep looking and find a better price than 750 per axle to regear, but the places I have tried seem to charge right around there, and I know someone with a shop who would be able to do the engine swap for me, or install anything I buy, but he just doesnt do regearing. I know all the stuff about added stress on the tranny and transfer case, so I believe I am steering towards a regear, but figured I would throw it out there. I believe wichever I dont do now I will be doing next year.

Also, I know this is a topic that has been killed many a time... but I just got 33x12.50 mickey thompson baja radial MTX on 15x10 mickey thompson classic II wheels for 600 with around 2000 miles on them, great deal, but the previous owner said they were sitting for 8 months or so, but when he used them it was a great ride. I threw them on my rig and I am getting a bit of a shake from (where the speedo reads) 45-50 mph and then again at 65+ (when I am really doing around 70 or so) and I havent pushed much past that yet, but I am not sure if it stops again at even higher speeds or not... since the tires were sitting... could it have thrown balance off? I will probably get htem checked anyway, but would that do anything to the balance that rebalancing them would be necesary?

regear

You could always go junkyard diving and see if you could find some axles already geared. A set of axles set up with 4.10s shouldn't be too hard to find. It's not ideal for 33s, but it'd be much cheaper.

Yep, regear. The issue with trying to address the problem through power upgrades is that you're STILL not operating in the optimal RPM range for the engine. The result is that you're not going to get the real benefit of those power upgrades. They'll help, yes, but you'll STILL be wasting gas and wasting power.

Can you shop a wider radius? If you can save a couple of hundred bucks it might be worthwhile to take your Jeep to a town 50, or 100, or even a couple of hundred miles away.

Good luck.

Starscream918 said:

You could always go junkyard diving and see if you could find some axles already geared. A set of axles set up with 4.10s shouldn't be too hard to find. It's not ideal for 33s, but it'd be much cheaper.

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X2

That's similar to what I'm doing when building up my rig (D30/D44 combo). However the axles that I found I tore into anyway, so I just re-set the gears myself anyway.

You didn't mention what axles you're running. Without starting a huge hijack or war, if you've got the D35 or mabye even the ''weaker'' of the two 8.25s (27-spline vs 29) you might want to do a swap and not dump money into axles that arn't built for the task of 33s. The 27 spline 8.25 wouldn't require a swap necessarily, but I'd personally want something stronger.

Good Luck.

I am running c8.25 d30. I am not sure on the spline count as I had a 27 spline and had to replace it since I did something pretty ugly to it. (never actually looked into what it was, since I was short on time, but I swapped in a new one). The new axle was from a junkyard and I am not sure on the year Jeep it came out of and I didnt think to count the splines before I filled it up and right now I am tight on time and even more so on cash so I dont feel like opening it up just to count until I am deciding to get new axles or regear.

In terms of the junkyard... I have looked around and looked into 4.10 gearing, for the sole reason that I could get axles geared with 4.10s that would swap right in. Only problem being that the junkyard wanted 400 a piece for them. Still better than what I would pay to regear, but still not cheap. I am now getting ready to look into a ford 8.8 or ford 9in rear end since I would be able to get one for about 225, but that still leaves me with teh front and any extra I woudl have to pay for the additional stuff needed to install the ford rear end. Only reason I am really looking into this is to get the rear disk brakes as well as I would get a rear end out of a 96+ explorer if I went the route of the 8.8.

I dont know what I would do for the front axle, if I woudl regear or what. I guess I will just keep looking around for better prices. Anyone know if letting the tires sit for 8 months or so could cause some balance issues? or if I should be concerned more about my drivetrain or steering or something other than tires to be causing the vibs?

You live in the junkyard capital of the state and cant find better prices than that?
97+ Explorer 8.8 with 410s Open or LSD should only cost about $150-200
All you need is leaf perches and a drive shaft flange adapter. $35

1990
Front Axle Assy.
Jeep Cherokee w/vac discon, 4.10 ratio- 2-23V $150 E.T. Cote and Son USA-MA(Leominster)
call it done

I live in MA too, I've been to a few junkyards/pick-n-pulls and never have I been quoted anything close to $400 for a D30 or an 8.8 rear end. D30s are cheap. I can see $400 for something exotic/new/huge however...

Do alittle more looking and call around, I know when I was shopping for my axles (although I ended up buying them from private sellers) I called at least a dozen yards around the state for prices.

Edit:
I just found the piece of paper I wrote prices down on when calling around. Granted these prices are from Oct/Nov 2005 but the prices shouldn't change that much in seven months.
Axle ----- Price ----- # Yards at that price in MA:
D30 (3.55) --------- $100 -------- 1
D30 (3.55) --------- $275 -------- 1
D30 (4.10) --------- $150 -------- 2
D30 (Unknown) ---- $250 ------- 1
D35 (4.10) ----------- $240 ------- 1
XJ D44 (Unknown) -- $320 ----- 1
Ford 8.8 (4.10) ------- $75 ------- 1
Ford 8.8 (4.10) ------- $175/180 ----- 1
Ford 8.8 (4.10) ------- $250/275 ----- 3
Ford 9" (Unknown) --- $275 ------- 1

Theres the run-down. I don't know if any of the yards still have any of the axles, like I said its been seven months. The axles are out there, you just gotta look. Be carefull when buying the axles, look them over, know what you're buying. Make sure the shafts are what you want, 760 u-joints, non-disco, check gears...

Again, Good Luck

thanks, I guess I just gotta look up more yards around here. Not sure why the 3 yards I checked seemed to want way more than that, got bad luck in picking and choosing or something, and after 3 I just assumed I would be stuck paying that much. Got any links as to where I could get the flange adaptor? That was one of the few things keeping me from getting an 8.8, mind you I dndt do too much looking as I have been short on time, but I also wasnt sure what to search for since none of the 8.8 threads I read mentioned a flange adaptor. And while upgrading... would you reccomend an 8.8 or just going all out to a 9"? it is a DD so I think 8.8 should cut it, but we shall see. thanks again

an 8.8 is pleanty strong, as for the flange, im sure its online somewhere, but any drivshaft/axle shop should stock them

plus the 8.8 is the same bolt pattern. explorers are pleantiful. I got one from Handlers Auto in Harwich for 200
Robertsons salvage has them for 200ish

just so I know I am thinking correctly... what do you mean when you say flange adaptor? making sure I am thinking of the right part...

just regear, more power is only gonna fry that transmission faster...

The flange adapter is Spicer part #2-2-1379
It allows a 1310 Ujoint to be bolted to the flange on the 8.8
M.O.R.E. sells one for $40, I hear it can be had at NAPA for less
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/Mounting Hardware-Axle/Mounting Hardware.htm

4.10 ain't low enuff for 33's.

You say it's not cheap to regear... NO, it's not. In Chicago area, regearing both diffs in the vehicle is literally an all day job, and gear shops that do it RIGHT the first time, have the right tools and know what they are doing run around $800. That doesn't take in the cost of gears and rebuild kits. which for the C8.25 and D30 gets around $450-500 alone. Regearing is pretty technical and takes skill gained from experience.

I'd sell the tires and save my money to do it right later. That's what I did.

themangeraaad said:

I could probably keep looking and find a better price than 750 per axle to regear, but the places I have tried seem to charge right around there.

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That is gay sex.


Read up on how to do it your self or keep looking for a cheaper shop.
consider a rear detroit locker before the gearing that will be part of the same install.

For steet efficiency you need axle gearing.

Yeah, And in refrence to the 4.10s arent low enough... I was running 3.07s with 30s for quite some time and got awesome mileage, upwards of 20 a gallon, so for now I am looking for the cheapest way to keep the 33s and get some of it back. I still have my 3.07s with the 33s, and its a bit of a dog but not half as bad as I expected. I dont know what my mileage is actually at right now, I am filling up tonight and testing it, but honestly... 4.10s are enough for me for now, until i can get enough to regear to 4.56s, which I cant get in any axle for the XJ.

I guess think of it as you being the "engine" on your 10 speed bike, with doing 4th gear starts form a dead stop. Yeah, you can buff yourself up with exerise, vitamins and such; and do other improvements to give you more "power" to start off in 4th gear; but you will still start off in 4th gear regardless.

A gearing change on your 10 speed shifter is so much simpler, to allow you to get better starts from a dead stop with more power; without having to buff yourself up.... Hence the gearing change on your rig....

Ivan said:

I guess think of it as you being the "engine" on your 10 speed bike, with doing 4th gear starts form a dead stop. Yeah, you can buff yourself up with exerise, vitamins and such; and do other improvements to give you more "power" to start off in 4th gear; but you will still start off in 4th gear regardless.

A gearing change on your 10 speed shifter is so much simpler, to allow you to get better starts from a dead stop with more power; without having to buff yourself up.... Hence the gearing change on your rig....

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That has to be the best analogy for gearing I've ever heard.