Ok I have my dad's old 89 XJ 4x4 4.0 stock that I wanted to make into a junk project. He's done with it so I'm just taking it on as a cheap truck challenge. But the brakes are so bad they barely stop it. When he took it to a mechanic they told him it had some electric brake system that chrysler put in those years and it wouldn't be worth fixing.???? I have no idea what this is about or if it's even true. What would be my best bet to get it stopping again so I can start this project.
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89 XJ Brakes, BAD
- Thread starter MotoX489
- Start date
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Sounds like it has the problematic ABS which used an electric hydraulic pump instead of a vacumn booster. Based on other posting here, it's a piss-poor design that's prone to failure and when it fails you have little to no braking. Easiest fix is to rip out the ABS stuff and swap in a normal booster, master cylinder, and prop valve. A 1996 booster and master cylinder are supposed to be an easy swap with a little grinding on the end of the push rod. I'm planning on doing this swap myself at some point to get more pressure.
asheets934
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh
I'd try to find it at a pick and pull type junkyard. When you pull the parts off yourself you pay so much less. I got in with a dude (he drives an XJ) at a local junkyard that doesnt let people pull their own parts but he lets me pull my own parts and I pay like half what anyone else would. Don't even bother trying to buy them from a stealership . . .
onetallmj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Bernardino Ca
go here:http://madxj.com/
look for the brake booster write up. Its all there.
When I last priced a booster/master cylinder/prop valve combo from someone on here, it was like $75 plus shipping but I would imagine you can get it cheaper from a local junkyard.
look for the brake booster write up. Its all there.
When I last priced a booster/master cylinder/prop valve combo from someone on here, it was like $75 plus shipping but I would imagine you can get it cheaper from a local junkyard.
asheets934
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburgh
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm
heres a link straight to the brake booster write up
heres a link straight to the brake booster write up
Call a dealership
1989 Jeep Cherokee SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK
Recall Date: 12/27/1996
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS). THE ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT CAN EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON SEAL WEAR WHICH COULD CAUSE PUMP-MOTOR DETERIORATION.
Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS, THE ABS FUNCTION WOULD BE LOSE AND REDUCED POWER ASSIST WOULD BE EXPERIENCED DURING VEHICLE BRAKING. THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING LIGHTS WILL SIGNAL SYSTEM IMPAIRMENT AND THE BASE MANUAL BRAKES WILL REMAIN FUNCTIONAL.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL TEST THE VEHICLE'S ABS AND REPAIR AS NECESSARY. THE WARRANTY ON ALL ABS COMPONENTS WILL BE EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES (EXCEPT FOR THE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON ASSEMBLY AND THE PUMP-MOTOR ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL HAVE A LIFETIME COVERAGE). OWNERS WILL BE REIMBURSED FOR PREVIOUS ABS COMPONENT REPAIR COSTS.
Potential Units Affected: 52000
Notes: Jeep Cherokee 702
The electric hydraulic pump is covered under a lifetime warranty.
1989 Jeep Cherokee SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK
Recall Date: 12/27/1996
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS). THE ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT CAN EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON SEAL WEAR WHICH COULD CAUSE PUMP-MOTOR DETERIORATION.
Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS, THE ABS FUNCTION WOULD BE LOSE AND REDUCED POWER ASSIST WOULD BE EXPERIENCED DURING VEHICLE BRAKING. THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING LIGHTS WILL SIGNAL SYSTEM IMPAIRMENT AND THE BASE MANUAL BRAKES WILL REMAIN FUNCTIONAL.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL TEST THE VEHICLE'S ABS AND REPAIR AS NECESSARY. THE WARRANTY ON ALL ABS COMPONENTS WILL BE EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES (EXCEPT FOR THE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON ASSEMBLY AND THE PUMP-MOTOR ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL HAVE A LIFETIME COVERAGE). OWNERS WILL BE REIMBURSED FOR PREVIOUS ABS COMPONENT REPAIR COSTS.
Potential Units Affected: 52000
Notes: Jeep Cherokee 702
The electric hydraulic pump is covered under a lifetime warranty.
Jeremy89XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Falling Waters, WV
Does anyone know if the '91 XJ w/abs was included under this recall? I am having the same abs issues described, minus a warning light. Anyone have any troubleshooting tips to help locate the problem? I also have an '89 XJ renix that I use on the trail... would the booster/ master cylinder setup work in the '91?
Jeremy89XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Falling Waters, WV
Sorry to have bumped such an old thread, but the recall info was detailed clearly on this. I have read some posts where people were suggested pulling the abs fuse and you would have normal functioning brakes, minus the abs. Exactly which fuses need pulled and how reliable is the braking system when setup this way? I will have to wait until the service dept. at my local Jeep dealer is open, before I can ask them about the recall info.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Don't pull the fuse. You'll end up with little or no braking.
Jeremy89XJ said:
http://www.automotive.com/1991/49/jeep/cherokee/recalls/34482.html
I'm gonna make a trip to the dealership when i have time, same exact problem
91Limited said:
I made that mistake and here is what they did:
Dealer Remedy:
DEALERS WILL TEST THE VEHICLE'S ABS (Note: a minimum diagnostic Fee applies, and the diagnostics on the ABS computer will haphazardly identify components that are out of warranty) AND REPAIR (call and see what a brake sensor costs - if its still available) AS NECESSARY (It was "necessary" to return several times, and at one point they wanted to replace my "weak" Optima battery - still in service 3 yrs later) THE WARRANTY ON ALL ABS COMPONENTS WILL BE EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES (Read: There is no current warranty on any ABS components except) (FOR THE BRAKE ACTUATOR PISTON ASSEMBLY AND THE PUMP-MOTOR ASSEMBLY WHICH WILL HAVE A LIFETIME COVERAGE). OWNERS WILL BE REIMBURSED FOR PREVIOUS ABS COMPONENT REPAIR COSTS.
Guys, this recall was in response to a class action lawsuit a dozen years ago - good luck getting something for free from the dealer on it these days. Search around on the forum for "Bendix ABS Replacement" tearing it out and putting in a safe conventional system is not that difficult or costly.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
We call them stealerships! The name is well earned.
When I turned 18 my first two cars were brand new. Traded the first one in after just 4 years. Sold the second one after 4 years. Learned several things in that 8 years. One is that the mechanics in stealerships typicaly break as many things as they fix. Some times you get real lucky and they fix nothing while breaking three more things in just one visit!:skull2:
They charge more for parts and labor (typically) than other repair places. They do talk a good story! They are really in the planned obsolence business which means it is their job to insure that you car self destructs when the payments run out, if not before, so that you are forced to buy a new car, hopefully from them.
Most other repair centers charge less than stealerships but frequently break and damage more things than they fix, they just don't charge as much for breaking it.
The only defense we have to is to learn how to do our own diagnostics and repairs.
By the time a vehicle is 10 to 15 years old, most repair centers and stealerships don't want to work on the vehicle because something tends to break down so often on them that they get blammed for problems that develop while they were fixing something else (they don't help breaking things). They have a hard enough time with the newer cars regarding warranty comebacks on their service work. Take an older car in where everything is pretty much worn out, the car owner can't afford to have 1/2 the parts on the car replaced at their parts and labor rates.
That's why most older vehicles like Renix era jeeps are owned and operated by DIYers!
When I turned 18 my first two cars were brand new. Traded the first one in after just 4 years. Sold the second one after 4 years. Learned several things in that 8 years. One is that the mechanics in stealerships typicaly break as many things as they fix. Some times you get real lucky and they fix nothing while breaking three more things in just one visit!:skull2:
They charge more for parts and labor (typically) than other repair places. They do talk a good story! They are really in the planned obsolence business which means it is their job to insure that you car self destructs when the payments run out, if not before, so that you are forced to buy a new car, hopefully from them.
Most other repair centers charge less than stealerships but frequently break and damage more things than they fix, they just don't charge as much for breaking it.
The only defense we have to is to learn how to do our own diagnostics and repairs.
By the time a vehicle is 10 to 15 years old, most repair centers and stealerships don't want to work on the vehicle because something tends to break down so often on them that they get blammed for problems that develop while they were fixing something else (they don't help breaking things). They have a hard enough time with the newer cars regarding warranty comebacks on their service work. Take an older car in where everything is pretty much worn out, the car owner can't afford to have 1/2 the parts on the car replaced at their parts and labor rates.
That's why most older vehicles like Renix era jeeps are owned and operated by DIYers!
