Starting Problem that is causing my head to hurt

Details:
1988 XJ Wagoneer 4.0L 4WD (242)

Jeep will start and then die as soon as the start switch is released and will eventually start after about nine to ten tries.

Jeep idles perfectly once started.
Jeep never has died once started.
Jeep has no idiot lights on (Service lights are a no show)

What I have tried:
Jeep has 252000 miles on the ride and at 250000 the spark plugs, plug wires, coil, coil wire, battery, battery cables, oil change (full synthetic since 170000 miles), oil filter and K&N air filter.

Has had no issues other than a leak in the power steering and I am about to change the hoses but haven't yet.

The starting issue started slow with it taking one or two times to start about 100 miles ago and now it takes up to ten tries to finally get the vehicle to fully start. After turning over, the key is turned back to the run postion and a second later the engine stalls and the throttle is not responsive ever so giving the Jeep gas does not rev the engine. I can hold the start option and the vehicle will not stall until I stop.

I was thinking fuel pump maybe but there is pressure on the fuel rail and the fuel pump would give trouble other than during starting I would think.

Help if you can i am willing to try anything. My next step is to replace the fuel filter and to test the starter and its components.

Don't think it is NSS as it does the same in both Park and Neutral.

I've heard that the ballast resistor can cause a problem similar to this, might want to try that. Here's a thread that might help.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88407&highlight=Ballast+resistor

The search function can be very useful.

Hope this helps,
Good luck!

Pat

Check your ignition switch.

Aspirin for the head ache.

The power to the fuel pump is actually two circuits.
When starting, the power goes through the starting contacts in the igniton switch and activates the starter relay (near the battery/ the silver box) and then to the fuel pump direct (it bypasses the fuel pump relay and the ballast resisitor). I think it is the "BAL" spade connector on the starter relay (on mine at least), I have seen different markings (it sometimes says "F") near the "fuel" spade connector on the relay, it's most always an Orange wire with a black stripe.
When the key is in the run position, the fuel pump relay is activated, when the relay is activated, power for the pump is from the main power circuit (fusible link) through the relay to/through the ballast resistor to the fuel pump.
Listen and see if the fuel pump primes when you turn the key to run, before starting, the ECU (grounds the fuel pump relay) and runs the fuel pump (through the relay) for a few seconds.
I'd jump the ballast resistor and see what happens. Then swap in another relay (switch the relays around, the A/C or front relay is usually the best choice) and see if that helps. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump relay is the second from the rear in the block of three or four, under the plastic cover on top of the passengers wheel well in the engine compartment.
Turn the key to run (you have three seconds) and test the in and out sides of the ballast resisitor for voltage. Usually battery voltage in (14 volts or so) and 10 volts out of the ballast resistor. You may have to have a friend work the key for you, as it will likely take a few off/run cycles of the key to get the tests done.
The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the fusible links bolted to the starter relay. The fusible links are usually either good or bad, rarley a sometimes thing.
It's also possible it's the ignition switch itself. The run and start positions are two different contacts inside the switch. The contacts inside of the ignition switch can be a sometimes thing.
If the neutral safety switch was questionable, the starter wouldn't work.
There are other things (besides the fuel and fuel pump) going on when the key is in the start position. But the fuel system is as good a place start.

I'm sure all this really helped your headache.

The NSS would cause a "no crank" condition - not a "no run" condition.

Have you a ballast resistor for the fuel pump? You should in an 88, it was a voluntary recall for 1987, and it was OEM sometime in the 1988 model year (not at the beginning, but shortly after.) It was added to address NVH issues (because people couldn't make the logical leap that they have a TRUCK, not a CAR, and would complain about vibration/noise from the fuel pump.)

Try this - take a heavy-gage jumper lead (14 gage or higher,) and disconnect the ballast resistor. Patch in the jumper lead instead, and try starting. The ballast resistor should be forward on the driver's side fenderwell, almost in the front corner of the engine bay. It can be either replaced or eliminated entirely - it wasn't added for any functional reason at all - just a "creature feature."

Check that, and let us know what you find out.

5-90

Ballast resistor for the 8th time this week

So after a fuel filter, a new ignition switch and ignition lock (just to be sure, the old one was in pretty bad shape...) still no luck. I have just got my hands on a voltmeter and am tackling the mysterious ballast resistor and fuel pump tomorrow.
(So mad that I took the day off from work tomorrow to tackle this issue...)

Does anyone have a picture of what a ballast resistor looks like? and do you have to go through a dealer to get one as Auto Zone and Advance don't list them on their websites?

Will post any updates as to what fixes the problem, thanks for all of your help so far.

The ballast resistor is a greyish/tannish block with two spade lugs on it, in the forward corner of the engine bay. It's about 1/2" square in profile, about 3" long, and retained with a single bolt.

Your local may not have a listing for the thing - you might have to take it in. They're all the same size, but there are different resistance values, and yours should be stamped at the root of one of the spade lugs.

Failing that, you can actually just bypass the ballast entirely - it's not functionally necessary. I've bypassed mine in my 88 and two of my 89's and haven't had any trouble. You might notice some more noise from around back - but, if you wanted a quiet ride, you'd have bought a Caddy, right?

The quickest and easiest test is to just bypass the thing using the same gage wire as going into and out of it - should be about a 16 gage. Larger is OK, I used 14 AWG since that's the largest wiring in the fuel pump circuit.)

5-90