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to all daily drivers running 35's, what's your axles/gears/lift?

B

BigOrangeXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Norwich, CT
I am really trying to thoroughly see what kind of setups people are running before I do my own build and make "wrong" choices. I have a pretty good idea of what I am looking for now, but I would like anyone with 35's on their daily driven XJ to list their tire size/width/brand, front/rear axle setup, amount of lift (exact brand, etc.), and gearing, along with any comments reg. highway driving, power, and stability on and off road.
Thanks much
 
-35" Trxus MT's
-15x8 Street Locks
-10oz innovative balancing beads
-Dana 30, 4.56, lockrite, MM Hubs
-8.25, 4.56, rebuilt/tighter trackloc
-RE 5.5" HD short arm, drop down brackets, rebuilt/bastard leaf pack RE main leaf, rusty's for the rest
-C-rok rear bumper and tire carrier
-Loose nuts front winch bumper with Warn 9.5XP winch
-Late model intake manifold, open air filter, Banks exhaust manifold, catback
-15 to 18 mpg on the highway.......

If I could I would run at least 4.88's with the 35's, hell 5.13 would be better. Really depending on what you wan to run, Dana 44 front with 5.13's and a 8.8 rear with 5.13 would be a great setup and could be done relatively cheaply.
 
BigOrangeXJ said:
I am really trying to thoroughly see what kind of setups people are running before I do my own build and make "wrong" choices. I have a pretty good idea of what I am looking for now, but I would like anyone with 35's on their daily driven XJ to list their tire size/width/brand, front/rear axle setup, amount of lift (exact brand, etc.), and gearing, along with any comments reg. highway driving, power, and stability on and off road.
Thanks much
Click to expand...

In my opinion 35's on a dd is the wrong choice. I'm running 35's right now, and just bought a set of 33's to put back on.
 
Why is 35's so crazy? If it is done right. My buddy runs 36 Iroks on his XJ and it is his DD. It drives a lot better than mine does with 33's. He has nice shocks, long arm and nice front steering setup.
 
JIMBOJAMES said:
Why is 35's so crazy? If it is done right. My buddy runs 36 Iroks on his XJ and it is his DD. It drives a lot better than mine does with 33's. He has nice shocks, long arm and nice front steering setup.
Click to expand...

Yeah thats true, but the d30 requires alot more attention when clocking alot of miles on it with 35s.
 
Pics please... Also, how does 2" difference in tire size reall make it any more or less streetable? The MPGs can't be much better if noticeable at all. How much would you say for the D44/8.8" setup. How much wider if any are these than stock axles? Curious too; any idea what axles a '88 BroncoII would have? I have a beat up one in the woods I bought for parts a year ago for my '85 Ranger.

CartsXJ said:
-35" Trxus MT's
-15x8 Street Locks
-10oz innovative balancing beads
-Dana 30, 4.56, lockrite, MM Hubs
-8.25, 4.56, rebuilt/tighter trackloc
-RE 5.5" HD short arm, drop down brackets, rebuilt/bastard leaf pack RE main leaf, rusty's for the rest
-C-rok rear bumper and tire carrier
-Loose nuts front winch bumper with Warn 9.5XP winch
-Late model intake manifold, open air filter, Banks exhaust manifold, catback
-15 to 18 mpg on the highway.......

If I could I would run at least 4.88's with the 35's, hell 5.13 would be better. Really depending on what you wan to run, Dana 44 front with 5.13's and a 8.8 rear with 5.13 would be a great setup and could be done relatively cheaply.
Click to expand...
 
35" Goodyear MT/Rs
Dana 30, open, 4.56 gears
Dana 44, Detroit E-Z locker, 4.56 gears
15x8 soft 8s, 4" b.s.
7.5" lift- RE short arm w/ drop brackets, Bigoffroad prototype "flex-duty" leafs and RRO 1.5" shackles
Daily driven, 16-17 mpg
 
BigOrangeXJ said:
I am really trying to thoroughly see what kind of setups people are running before I do my own build and make "wrong" choices. I have a pretty good idea of what I am looking for now, but I would like anyone with 35's on their daily driven XJ to list their tire size/width/brand, front/rear axle setup, amount of lift (exact brand, etc.), and gearing, along with any comments reg. highway driving, power, and stability on and off road.
Thanks much
Click to expand...

6.5" lift, mostly RE stuff, drop brackets, short arms, 5.5" leafs and boomarang shackles.

d44 rear, 4.88, detroit, alloy usa CrMo shafts, drum brakes
d30 front, 4.88, ected, alloy usa shafts, WJ outers and steering so i can actually stop
WJ master/booster to help with the stopping bit

315/75/16 MT/R's on 16x8 AR Outlaw-II's with 4.5" backspacing

I'm on an 87 with just bout 55k original miles and an auto, i get about 18 mpg.
 
dont do 4.56s, you will regret no going deeper. i run 35s just because i found a really good deal on tires and wheels and my 33s were about out. i'd rather not have them running daily on the 30.
 
Dana 30, 4.56 gears, ARB, Yukon Shafts 760 ujoints

Dana 44 rear 4.56 gears, Aussie Locker, Yukon Shafts


been runnin this for over 70K miles and no issues.. V8 Grand Cherokee
 
BigOrangeXJ said:
Pics please... Also, how does 2" difference in tire size reall make it any more or less streetable?
Click to expand...
Yes... it has more sidewall flex, is harder on unit bearings and steering, and harder to balance (normally).

BigOrangeXJ said:
The MPGs can't be much better if noticeable at all.
Click to expand...
it could be worse... ask the guys who have gone from ~29" tire to 31's.

BigOrangeXJ said:
Curious too; any idea what axles a '88 BroncoII would have? I have a beat up one in the woods I bought for parts a year ago for my '85 Ranger.
Click to expand...
Probably a 7.5 rear, and TBB (IFS) dana 35 front. no use to you really.
 
I have the BFG AT's and run 4.88's in my front D30 with ARB and rear D44 with a Loc rite. RE 5.5" lift and SOA in rear. I think with the AT's, street driving is better than with my old General Grabber MT's even if they were 33's.
My speedo doesn't work but I am guessing I get about 14MPG but thats with a stroker that runs a little rich.

My advice is to go with a long arm setup because my short arm setup sucks on the bumps, and the D30 is getting replaced eventually with a HP D44.
 
fordtech said:
BigOrangeXJ said:
The MPGs can't be much better if noticeable at all.
Click to expand...
it could be worse... ask the guys who have gone from ~29" tire to 31's.
Click to expand...
Actually, my 31x10.5s and stock 3.07s get almost exactly the same mileage that my stock 225/75R15s and 3.07s did. I just don't get to use fifth gear any more.
 
BigOrangeXJ said:
Pics please... Also, how does 2" difference in tire size reall make it any more or less streetable? The MPGs can't be much better if noticeable at all. How much would you say for the D44/8.8" setup. How much wider if any are these than stock axles? Curious too; any idea what axles a '88 BroncoII would have? I have a beat up one in the woods I bought for parts a year ago for my '85 Ranger.
Click to expand...


The only reason I listed everything, was to give you an idea of what else I have done, as far as weight and performance. Everything ties to each other. For the past two weeks I've been rear bumper-less (no 35" tire, carrier, bumper, jack) probably ~200lbs less, been re-painting and reinforcing it, and I've notice a few more mpg's without the extra weight. So if you are looking to get the most mpg's loss as much extra weight as possible, tools, jack, spare, etc, what ever you feel you can leave at home. It will probably be a while until the carrier and tire go back on......I am enjoying the 19mpg.
 
35X12.5 land rover MT on 15X10 with 4.0BS
Previous had XJ 44 rear 4.88 and HP30 front 4.88
Now Waggy 44 front and XJ 44 rear with 4.88

Full traction arms 6.5 RK coils OTK steering OAB and JKS trac bar
Rear 6" skyjacker leafs and TNT 1.5" shackles
Procomp shocks (the worst part of my suspension)

Steering is great
Gears are not low enough
front coils are too soft for rear leafs
 
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