Torque spec?

I found an archived thread that says the torque specs on the oil pan gasket are 80 in. lbs. for the 1/4 bolts and then 11 ft. lbs for the 5/16 bolts. I just want to clarify. The two bolts at the very back of the pan (where the gasket kind of hugs the crank) need to be torqued to 11 ft. lbs. The rest of them should be 80 in. lbs. Can anyone verify? I did a rear main yesterday and did not use a torque wrench. I just drove it for the first time and I have a slight leak that appears to be coming from the area near the bell housing inspection plate. I was thinking that those 2 bolts might not be tight enough.

The 5/16"-18 bolts (the large ones at the corners) get torqued to 132 pound-inches/11 pound-feet. The rest of them (the 1/4"-20 bolts) get torqued to 84 pound-inches/7 pound-feet. If you need replacements, all are 3/4" long.

If you didn't use a torque wrench, shame on you. This is one area where you just can't "guesstimate" proper torque, since it's entirely too easy to crush the gasket beyond utility. Crushed gaskets MUST be replaced - and if you have a leak, chances are good you crushed the gasket in that spot.

5-90

I think I'm OK. I just checked and they were all undertorqued by a good bit. I did the four corners at 11 and the rest at 7. That very well could take care of the problem.

Another dumb question. On one of the four corners bolts. Right as it got to torque it felt funny. Almost like it stripped. Obviously I didn't want to tighten it more to find out. What should I do?

Pull it out and check it. I don't see that the cast iron hole should strip at that low torque level, but you never know. I use brass screws down there without incident, tho.

It might also have been the gasket "settling" - I've known it to happen.

5-90

Permatorque - all silicone with metal grommets. Real hard to crush, and torques to my experienced old man elbow value.

Yes, next time I'm under I'll check, probably loose by now anyway - but not leaking.