Has anyone installed their own SYE?

[Dann]

And if so, what is involved, any machine work or clearance issues? Is it a pretty much disassemble, replace components, and reassemble in reverse order? Can it be done with the t-case still mounted to the tranny? Any and all advice appreciated.
TIA, Dann

[Boonie Rat]

I did mine on my 98. It took a couple of hours. Did it with Xfercase in vehicle. Make sure you get the correct tool for removing that snapring. Read the procedure a couple of time beforehand and keep them handy.

[BUCKYXJ]

not bad at all I like doing it with it out of the vehicle though. Just my opinion.

[Dann]

Who's kit did you guys use? And about that snapring tool? I have a BFH and a torch. Will that work. Just kiddin'. Standard snapring pliers won't work, eh? Where did you get the special snapring tool from, and how much $$ for it? I've never played around in a transfer case, but figure if I can build an engine that stays together, I'll manage. Thanks, Dann

[JnJ]

I used the AA kit and did it with the t-case removed. My standard snapring pliers wouldn't open enough, til I took the grinder to them. Not to hard of a job, I'm glad I removed the case from the vehicle.

[Speed_racer]

there are RE SYE's out there for $100 !!

But i watched a guy do one in 30 minutes, not hard!!

[Dann]

I've heard the AA is the best. It's goin' in a '98. What's up with that RE cheapo deal? It is so cheap it scares me. Is it a bargain, or a robbery? It has to be one or the other at that price. Don't you cut off the original output shaft or something and re-use it? Dann

[Speed_racer]

Nah man! go to www.allmyneeds.com ... actual Rubison Express SYE for $100 !!

[aueaglexj]

isn't the $100 RE SYE the hack and tap type, not the HD type, and don't you still have to replace your rear driveshaft.

[jre29]

Yes, it is the hack and tap and you will still need a CV driveshaft, saving you $150. AA SYE kit is usually $250. Go with the AA SYE.

[Dann]

Yeah, I knew the driveshaft was a given, but on this hack and tap deal, has anyone done it? I assume you cut the existing output shaft to specified length, tap it out for the yoke bolt, clean up, and install the new yoke and driveshaft. Does this about sum it up? Maybe I'm off base a bit, but cutting the damn output shaft would seem to be a real barrel 'o' monkeys. The shaft has got to be surface hardened, and made of something a bit tougher than hot rolled steel. I'm thinking complete removal, chuck it up on a lathe, cut it down, clean the surface, and tap it while it is still chucked up. I have access to a lathe, but I can't afford to have my daily driver down for more than a day. Someone please say it is less involved than that, and that it is a decent set-up. I'm a poor family man, so if it is less expensive, but labor intensive, then I'm usually game. However, I don't want to invest in anything that is going to require me to do it all over in less than a year or 2. I'm just going to be doing mild to moderate wheeling, and maybe hopping a curb or 2. Thoughts? Dann

[RCP Phx]

I tried the hach-n-tap on mine but still had minor vibes.So I ended up buying the JB Conversions kit.The RE kit does not address all the issues like the HD kits do.Its only a 100$ more to do it right once!

[Dann]

I don't want to do anything that will result in vibrational/harmonic problems. I do believe I'll look into getting the complete deal. Thanks, Dann

[LawlessXJ]

I went with the RE SYE on my '97. Paid $75 for the kit and $225 for the DS... way cheaper than the HD kit and shaft... and I have no vibes and.... so far... it works great. The jeep gets wheeled but I'm not planning on entering any UROC competitions any time soon so hopefully it will hold up. ;)

If you got the bucks or a serious need definately go with the HD kit.

[xxxj-va]

Tom Wood's SYE and driveshaft here. An SYE can be done by even the most inept mechanic (me). FWIW I posted a bunch of random pics from my install:

http://www.kofira.com/jeep/SYEInstall/index.html

Get a good set of snap ring pliers (BIG). I tried to get by with el cheapo's and "lost my perspective" during the install. Good luck!

P

[Kejtar]

I went cheap and quick... and I did the RE hack and tap and well..... it so far turned out fine :) It has survived 2 moderate trails and one harder one all in one day :). I look at it this way: if Farmer Matt's hack and tap has survived all that he has thrown at it, so will mine :)

Kejtar

[Moto]

I did the hack and tap as well and you don't have to remove it to cut it on a lathe, I used a cut off wheel and took my time just do it slow so you don't ruin the temper of the steel and you should be fine as long as you can cut straight, mine has been on for about a month and I have no vibes unless I go over 75 mph, on the odd occasion I do that but that may be from the tires or something else, but overall it was an easy install and has been working great with no complaints at all.

[Dann]

Thanks all.

[Kejtar]

Originally posted by Moto
I have no vibes unless I go over 75 mph

check your angles as I take mine up to 85 ~ 90 and I have no problems :)

[Dann]

About the drive shaft, I have about 4.5" of lift +/- .5" and I must have the driveshaft ready for installation right after I do the SYE. Is their anyone who has prefabbed double carden drive shafts available for my lift dimensions? I can't afford to be down for more than a day. Thanks, Dann

[offroadman83]

Is there a cheaper place to get a cv driveshaft built for the RE sye, that does it fast as well. Everybody has said Tom woods and jess at high angle driveline will not make one, I wonder if denny's driveshafts will, but are they cheaper than RE or better is the question?

[ChiXJeff]

You can always check your local Yellow Pages for driveline shops.

Only caveat with that is make sure they use Spicer joints.

ChiXJeff

[offroadman83]

Everything down here sucks. I don't know of any here locally that does, but I will keep checking.-=kyle

[urbanXJ]

Do it yourself, not to hard.

I got a 2000 with a NP231, So I went with the AA HD Woods kit, and reccomend it to anyone. You get one killer driveshaft, new yoke, and new bell housing with bearing installed, new seals... Also, naxja members get 25$ off.

With a RE 3.5 inch lift I had a 35&7/8" working length.
Measure from the back of the bell housing, to the center of the rear joint on a level surface.

I left the case on the jeep. Only clearence issue is your body under the rig. You must drop the crossmember supporting the tranny (4 bolts).

You will need the snap ring pliers that have paddels on the end, and open at least 1.5''.
I couldn't find any that large, but I dropped by the local tranny shop and a tech there put the new ring on for me for free.

The most difficult thing for me was connecting the oil pickup tube to the oil slinger.

I forgot to put the magnet in the bottom of the case though.

Oh well, all in all, it was a piece of cake.
Net cost 500 plus oil and RTV.

Oh, and you need a 12pt (10mm I THINK) socket.
On your 98 you should not need a puller.

Best mod I ever did.

[Nik]

I did it by myself but just had my bearings pulled by a shop. I'm only 15 and could do it with no probs at all runs nice with 40's on a DANA60.

[JToffroad.com]

On the hack and tap. Remove your front/rear drive shaft ( I'm a safty freak) block off the tires, and place your transmission in gear. If you have a skill saw then equip it with a metal cutting disk. Use the skill saw to cut the shaft while the transmission turns it. It worked great for a budy of mine who bought the RE hack and tap. If you don't have a skill saw then any kind of metal cutting blade will work.

[Dann]

I thought about using the tranny as a ready made lathe also, but I figured to use a porta-band or a sawzall, then check the cut for squareness, and clean and chamfer with a flap wheel. Heat the flange, position, and hammer on. However, my post was hi-jacked before anyone got back to me on if there are prefabbed driveshafts for a 4.5" lift. As I said earlier, I can't be down more than a day, and it sure would be nice to have a prefabbed double carden of appropiate length ready to go in. Thanks, Dann

[LawlessXJ]

If you go the RE route, just give them the measurement of center of u-joint to center of u-joint of your stock DS and they will calc. the new DS length for you. You can then have SYE and DS shipped at the same time.

[Dann]

Thanks Pete.

[Bronco]

Your jeep will not be “down” if you don’t have the DS yet you can drive it in 4 high with no rear DS as long as you get the case put together. Then you can drive it to the DS shaft shop and get a shaft custom. I figure that way you get one that’s exactly the right length for your setup. Factors like lift height, and pinion angle make me leery of off the shelf DS ordered at the same time as the SYS. Just something to think about