gonna weld up the rear, few???

ok im pretty set on welding up the rear, did a search on here and saw that the few people that did it, like it and it doesnt kill your tires like the people that dont have spools or welded rears say it does. but i got a couple questions, 1st can someone explane how to remove the carrier and spiders from my 8.25, im sure i can figgure it out as soon as i pop the cover, but id like a little guidance on it. 2nd, i think i should just weld the gears together right? so that way if something does screw up it wont kill the whole gearset and whatnot.

i guess the only one i know of on here who has done this and had it for a while is georgiamike, so if your out there speak up

thanks
mark

I have done it. The best way to do it. is to take the carrier out and take the ring gear off the carrier. then weld the spider gears to the side gears. and let it cool. then reinstall. Beware that YES, it does wear out tires as fast as they say it does. Especaialy if you drive it on the road alot.

HTH

jerm S.

One set of tires is more than the cost of a lunchbox locker. Don't know where you got the idea that it won't wear the tires. Remember, some will defend their particular modification beyond logical conclusions, no one likes to admit that something they did isn't really working like they hoped. If you want to take advice, only take it from those who have run a modification for a long time, the short timers always think it's the greatest thing they ever did.

i have a welded rear i drive it on the street it isnt bad maybe not as bad as my friends full detroit. THe thing is predictible and you know how it will react. If you just coast through turns it doesnt chirp that much. When you park it it will feel diff. The tires will chirp and squeal a bit but i am used to it and dont find it bad. I am going to a d44 and will be doing a full spool. THis is stronger than a carrier or locker and on the trail far better no ratcheting and no slack. I had heard the stories and find them to be worse than what actually occurs. As for tire wear i am sure its increased as is with all locking devices but i cant believe its that much worse.

Why doesnt anyone ever talk about "why you dont want to be locked up"!In my experiences here being "locked-up" all the time isnt a preference!Off camber(in any condition) and snow/ice come to mind,dont forget about the street manners!Also the challenge isnt really there!Selectables provide whats needed to fill the gap!

yes please explain i have found it damn useful in mud and offcamber situations. YOu maintain traction with the ground and keep a foward motion so i would help in snow. If you are thinking a locker will push you over i wouldnt really worry you have a clutch or neutral on an auto to help prevent that a locker will make you far more capable on the rocks mud sand and snow.

I've always had a non-selectable locker in the rear (Detroit & a LockRight), and the times I've been in the snow it's been horrible. I parked at an unregulated ice/snow field next to some other vehicles and on a very slight sidehill. When we got in to leave the rear kept sliding toward all the other vehicles, to the point that the guy next to me had to come move his veh. so I could pull out. (at this time my front axle was not 4wd capable) Another time I parked on the side of the road so the kids could play in the snow & damn near couldn't get back on the road because of the sidehill. I'll admit I'm not a snow lover at all, but I really didn't like the sidehill slide action with a locked rear.

Blah! Blah! Blah! I like my Lincoln Locker! The ONLY thing I don't really care for about it is the fact that when I flat tow it, it seems to want to push my tow rig straight while on the brakes and turning into a road. True,tire wear is accelerated,but you can rotate the tires at every oil change to help offset the effects. Driving on snow/ice may be a little tricky(I don't know for sure,as it RARELY snows in my area,and I've got another DD anyway),but once you get the feel for it and get to know how your rig reacts in certain situations you know what to expect,unlike a regular locker that can lock or unlock at any given time/place. Driving in the rain is almost like driving an open diffed rig,you just have to remember not to go hammering on the throttle in the turns. My rig now sports a Lock Right in the front non-disco Dana 30,too. Anyone wanna tell me that I shouldn't have done that,either?

Mark: If you REALLY want to weld the rear up,go for it. It's your rig and your choice. Just be forwarned of the consequences,and learn HOW TO DRIVE your newly modified rig,as it will take a little getting used to. I personally didn't remove the carrier on my 8.25. I just cleaned the insides out with a *NON FLAMMABLE* brake and parts cleaner,wrapped wet rags around the R&P and bearings and we went to town on it. Weld one set of spiders about half way,rotate the ring gear and weld on the opposing side (Left to Right) the same. Keep rotating to keep heat buildup from occurring in one place for too long. I didn't weld mine to the carrier,so it's your decision to make on that one. When you're done,remove the rags and get yourself a small scraper and get out ALL of the welding slag and spatter left behind,and when you're done with that,go through it again to make absolutely sure you got it all out. Put the cover back on and fill the diff with your favorite brand of lube and go try it out. Remember,*Learn to drive it again* with the new mod and you'll be happy with it! Good luck with it!

There are 2 reasons that I run welded diffs front and rear.

1. $5 vs. $500 per axle

2. All 4 wheels must participate.

I ride on a trailer though, so street concerns are non existent. My street rigs won't get the welded treatment, I'll only run selectables in them when I get them built. Rotating tires every oil change and the constant stress on axle shafts turns me away from doing this on a DD.

Like mine to! Welded my D35 since it is not worth buying a locker for until I get the 8.8 in.
I removed the carrier. Covered everything I didn't want spatter on with aluminum foil and rotated cool wet rags as I went. I used wire welder to lessen the mess created.

Mine is not a DD and isn't even tagged, its gets trailered to where I am going. It was fun in the snow turning donuts a blast!

I have had it suck on muddy side hills though, gotta be real easy on the gas.

I've been running a "Lincoln Locker" for years now. At the time it was a quick cheep fix, or so I thought. Welded I go through one to two sets of tires per year depending on the tire. It gets real expensive real fast. As far as the driving side effects, I loved it on the trail, snow, and ice. Never any negetive effects there. However; I hated it on the street. Lots of chiprping and squealing around corners and in parking lots. And I WILL NOT even consider making U-turns with it, it feels like the whole rear end is going to rip out of the vehicle. Driving around a entire city block to turn around gets annoying. The only way to somewhat subside the chipping, squealing, and grabbing is to run a min. of 40 PSI in the tires. If you don't drive it on the streets much go for it; It's great on the trail. My next rear end won't be welded.

I run a full spool in the rear of my XJ. I like it ok, but would far prefer and ARB for both maneuverability and streetability reasons. I turn ok going forward but plow a lot when trying to turn in reverse.

No doubt tire wear is increased during street driving. I've had Lock-Rites and Detroits in the rear of previous 4x4s and they each had their own pitfalls with street driving but I don't believe that tire wear was as bad as a spool.

I had no choice but a spool, but I made the choice to have no choice too I run a 40 spline shaft and the options were, spool or different axle.

I've welded a few spiders up myself and would recommend you pull the carrier to do it. It's not just the heat concerns but splatter and/or slag in the diff. Welding them inside the pumpkin increases the risk of some small little hidden chunk of splatter coming off and ruining your gears later. Not that it can't be done, just less risky and, IMO, easier to do out of the pumpkin.
I would not weld the gears to the case though. Gears to gears is enough. The case and gears are different steels with different heat rates etc. Again, not that it 'can't' be done, but it does require greater skill and knowledge than your average "garage fabricator" typically posses. Ofcourse, I've come to realize most participants here at appear to be far from average too :cheers:

It's a cheap and effective method of "Miller Locking" an axle and has years of proven use.

Another thing to consider though is that you really need to have a strong axle to start with. The spool adds a more strain on the axle shafts. More than a Detoit or Lock-Right would.

but you also have to consider that with a spool there is no load and unload and therefore sudden bursts of power are not constantly occuring but it is a constant strain i would agree a d35 is not great with big tires low gears and a locker.

C-ROK said:

The spool adds a more strain on the axle shafts. More than a Detoit or Lock-Right would.

Click to expand...

I've heard many people state the opposite, because there is no sudden loading and unloading.

I have a Toyota 8" rear with a selectable locker, full spool or full open.

...However, it takes 1/2 hour to "select" because I have one third open and one third welded

well i guess im gonna do it, worse case, i can go to the junkyard and get a carrier and spider gears im also looking for a small 4cyl car cuz of the amt of driving i do and the horrendous price of gas, so maybe i wont have to worry about it being the DD much longer