oil pump drive

I need to replace the oil pump drive in my 2000xj 4.0, with ignition rail.
I have another thread going, but it is kind of involved on this and I need to know just a couple of things. It is hard to find dig through.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86834

I am stuck out in BFE, without my FSM, or a scanner. I have the installation instructions to install the oil pump drive. I know that it needs to be at top dead center to install. The FSM says that I need the DRB scan tool to syncronize the fuel, not to set the ignition timing. It also says that I should idle it up to operating temps, after I install the oil pump drive.

So if it runs, could I drive it into the jeep dealership to have them sync the fuel? Or will it mess up my cam or somthing else?

I need help with this one. My mechanic buddy is out of town, and I am stuck at work, as home is 4 hours away.

I may be able to get my hands on a snap-on scanner tool, but I dont know if it will allow me access the "Set Sync" option to adjust the oil pump drive to an exact 0 degrees. Will the snap on scanner allow me to do this or will I need a DRB scan tool?

i work at a jeep dealership tech said as long as distributor doesnt come out sheft should slide right back in and you wont have to worry about fuel sync said he nver have to do that before.

Thanks for the info ripcord.
I dont have a distributor, but I am assuming that the oil pump drive takes a distributor's place.
The bearings in the oil pump drive froze and twisted the whole assymbly clockwise about 20 degrees. I look down inside and it looks like I could just drop it in. But I want to make sure that this is ok to do. The FSM says that I need to sync the fuel if the crankshaft or camshaft has rotated(such as in engine teardown). I dont know if it has rotated as the the assymbly has rotated. I did not rotate the engine after I pulled the drive and CMP.

Let me ask a question I should have asked at the begginning of this thread:
If the oil pump drive has twisted out of posistion do I need to sync the fuel or just drop it in?

Off to Jeep to get the parts.

oops sorry bout the dist, u still should be able to drop in button up and drive

I tried to just drop it in, and it is still off about 20 degrees from 0.

It makes sense that the timing notch is about 20 degrees from top dead center.
So the way it looks to me is that I have to time it back to top dead center and drop it in. After that is done, I have to DRB adjust the fuel sync to 0 degrees. If it is off + or - then I simply rotate the oil pump drive until I get as close to 0 degrees as possible. Is it super important that this is done with the DRB?

pull shaft back out set to tdc reinstall shaft you will have to sync with drb but 3 techs agree that you will be able to drive it to dealership to have it put to sync

CPK is in, and it still wont start. It turns over. When the key is in the on posistion, I can hear the fuel pump running constantly, and the electric fan kicks on immediatley. So WTF.

My electric fan kicks on when I try to start the engine. The fuel pump runs for about 7 seconds. I am working alone I am hearing a clicking noise and it sounds like it is coming from the PDC. I tried swapping the electric fan relay with the ASD, still nothing. I will get a couple of relays today.

The old crank sensor had an exposed wire, and the base of the sensor was pitted.

The old oil pump drive had siezed bearings and was difficult to rotate the shaft. I believe that the cam sensor is still good but I replaced it anyway.

I have a spare throttle body matching sensors and I have cleaned and swapped all sensors to the throttle body.

I have replaced both O2S within the last 3 weeks.

I have taken apart the PCM and checked for shorts or water and found nothing.

I have check OHM on the wires from the TPS.

I have checked the fuses and none are blown.

Where should I go from here?

thats what i was thinking. I am about ready to pull the oil pump drive and start over. maybe I missed somthing. I have a snap on scanner on the way out. I will treat just as if i rebuilt the engine. I have also pulled the rear driver interior panel and checked the ground there, as that is the ground for the ASD. It looks good and has a good ground. I am going to pull the looms from the engine well and open them all up and look for a short. Im thinking of pulling the PDC and looking for a short. I am 100% positive that the oil pump drive was the problem as it was definatley rotating with friction. I am going to do a compression test and a fuel pressure test.

Why is does my fuel pump keep running and my electric fan engage when the key is in the on posistion. the fuel pump should only stay on for a second or so. and the electric fan should come on a 220 degrees? I think I have a ground problem. What do ya think?

On my f150, I had been fighting a non-stopping fuel pump(Pressure was good). It turned out I had a bad ground, which had killed the ECM(Over time) when you turn the key to on, the fuel pump starts, builds pressure then the ecm has a 1 sec timer that opens the ground to the relay breakign the circuit and stopping the fuel pump. I know with the fords you can check the grounds to the ECM by disconnecting the wireing harness to the computer and using a VOM check each ground(They have 3) to the negative battery terminal. Fords should be under 5ohms, one of them was over 11ohms, so I reran that particular ground(As it just so happened to be the ground to the fuel pump) anyway, the ecm has a burnt spot on it, and im ordering another next week.

This is assuming your relays are all good(Find out which contacts are for the coil, apply 12v you should hear it pull in, and ou when power is removed). Good luck, sounds like youre getting close.

checked the grounds to PCM
checked the fused ignition switch ok a 10.4
checked the B+ circut ok
checked 5volt feed to TPS ok
Checked 5volt to cam sensor ok
checked 5volt to crank sensor ok
checked 5volt to MAP ok
checked 5volt to vehichle speed sensor ok
checked oil pressure sending unit at 3.72 volts ok
checked ground to TPS below 1.0 volts ok
no resistance in any oxygen sensor ground circuits ok
all fuses and relays are ok
ASD relay circut below 5 ohms ok

The snap on scanner could not communicate with the PCM but could communicate with the TCM. The electric fan and fuel pump run constantly but not with the new crank sensor plugged in. The ASD relay click repeatedly occasionally. I am getting fuel to the ignition. I have compression, and ignition.

Looks like all fingers point toward a new computer. Would you concur?

See if you can get your hands on a good one and try it. Good luck, I too would agree with the new computer. Especially with the fan and pump running. Have you taken the PCM out yet took it apart and looked at the board? I did that on my old truck and I found a burnt spot. That did it for me, I am ordering one next week(My XJ is my daily driver, so not too much of a hurry).

I pulled it apart and looked and smelled, didnt anything bad looking. No water either. I have called the local yards and no luck. I dont know anyone in this area with a 2000 computer with federal emissions. Does year and emission type make a difference? I am assuming they do. I will order a new PCM tommorrow. At this point it is a $650 guess. Thanks for the Tim.