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Shock travel length

Jump This

Jump This

Just another minion!
Location
Borrego Springs Ca.
I have noticed that my front shocks appear to be my lower limiting 'straps', How long a travel shock canI use.
I have a RE short arm lift and can modify as nesc. to maximize droop/stuff.
Would also like to run 5150's or 7100 series Bilstiens.
Any suggestions?
Rick R
 
Unhook the shocks, stuff and droop, measure. Try to make sure you run out of shock before you overstress your steering, so you dont chew through draglinks every other run.

That is, if you can find somewhere to flex your jeep within a safe drive from your house.

;)
 
i stacked up my 5 old 29" tires (still on there rims) and disconnected my shocks and drove up the stack and measured from there. just an idea...

john
 
Like this?

I did the same thing when i was test fitting 35's so I could trim. Not much droop there, cuz i was running the same shocks I ran with 4" less lift - i was just checking how i stuffed that day.

DSC00885.JPG
 
Rick
I run a 12" 5150 on mine. I have about 6.5" lift and 33's I had to bumpstop almost 4" though. I also have the TnT arms, so I have a little more droop. That is the main reason I went with the 12" body shock. I wanted to maximize the droop and limit the stuff, I was trying to prepare for 35" tires. Everything seems ok now that the bumpstops are in but stuff seems too limited. That should change once the 35's are on.

For the rear, I used the JKS shock relocators on the XJ 44 and still used a 10" body shock that is WAY to long. I need almost 5.5" of bumpstop to avoid using my shocks as stuff limiters.(sp?) With 35's the bump may be needed but the shocks will still be to long mounted in the stock locations.

I hope this helps.

Aaron
 
Cal, you must be running RE leafs..
 
I finally got my shocks measured out on my 93 XJ. I would like to go with the Bilstein 5125's. I found the specs off of their website.

Fronts:
Pt# BE5-6249-H5
Travel: 11.94
Valving: 255/70 My Measurements
Extended 29.70" 27.5" - 1" BPE = 26.5"
Collapsed 17.91" 18" - 1" BPE = 17"

Rears:
Pt# BE5-6252-H5
Travel: 8.13
Valving: 255/70 My Measurments
Extended: 21.54" 19"
Collapsed: 13.58" 14.5"

So what do you think? Did I pick the right ones? Should I go with something that acctually limits or use the bumpstops for that?
 
mack said:
Cal, you must be running RE leafs..
Click to expand...


I'm not running those leafs at all anymore. I toasted my leafpacks being stupid on a sand dune, so put something together from misc leaf packs to get me around town for a few weeks. Rode like shit but kept me driving strait and level, which was all I really needed at the time.

As it happens, I AM running RE leafs again, and its *amazing* how they flex.. the new RE 5.5" leafs with TNT boomarang shackles. I expected it to ride like a buckboard wagon, but its smooth sailing. Looking to raise my upper shock mounts now, as they travel more than my shock mounts do .. and yet again even longer rear brake line..
 
holeshot said:
I finally got my shocks measured out on my 93 XJ. I would like to go with the Bilstein 5125's. I found the specs off of their website.

Fronts:
Pt# BE5-6249-H5
Travel: 11.94
Valving: 255/70 My Measurements
Extended 29.70" 27.5" - 1" BPE = 26.5"
Collapsed 17.91" 18" - 1" BPE = 17"

Rears:
Pt# BE5-6252-H5
Travel: 8.13
Valving: 255/70 My Measurments
Extended: 21.54" 19"
Collapsed: 13.58" 14.5"

So what do you think? Did I pick the right ones? Should I go with something that acctually limits or use the bumpstops for that?
Click to expand...

You should use bumpstops to limit uptravel, and can use the shocks to limit droop.
For the extra money, you'll probably find it worth going to 5150's.
 
cal said:
They look good with the black paint. Nice.
Click to expand...


Thanks !!

I might have to sell them ... I found a D44 front for pretty cheap but it has manual hubs ..so unless theres some way to fix that I'll have to sell them :read:
 
There supposedly some old dodge outers you can get that are 5x4.5, but your probably better off keeping the hubs and getting new wheels.
 
Yeah ... I wish I could find a 44 that would work with my wheels and that would be the correct width ... like out of a rubi er somthin
 
Your probably better off with what you have, actually.

The "rubicon" 44 is a low pinion 44, with dana 30 tubes, dana 30 outers, dana 30 knuckles, steering and brakes..

The high pinion 30 ring and pinion is arguably stronger than the low pinion 44, so the only 'upgrade' you get is 30 spline inner shafts .. which you can get for the 30 for a lot less money.

The 30 is incredibly stout, for what it is. Build it right and it will hold up to 31-35's fairly well.

-C
 
I am actually running a rubi d44 front on one of my rigs, it has a bigger ring gear so I would think the trade off between weak side of the gear/bigger ring gear would more than compensate for the smaller ring gear/strong side of the Hpd30, but that is merely speculation. I would really like to find out how the rubis are doing with bigger tires, lockers etc on the d44. sorry to divert the topic, maybe I should start another thread.
 
cal said:
Your probably better off with what you have, actually.

The "rubicon" 44 is a low pinion 44, with dana 30 tubes, dana 30 outers, dana 30 knuckles, steering and brakes..

The high pinion 30 ring and pinion is arguably stronger than the low pinion 44, so the only 'upgrade' you get is 30 spline inner shafts .. which you can get for the 30 for a lot less money.

The 30 is incredibly stout, for what it is. Build it right and it will hold up to 31-35's fairly well.

-C
Click to expand...

See my buddy has one with moly shafts and its locked on 35's now it keeps tearing up ring and pinion ... And just the other day he found one of his shafts twisted

http://jeepinwv.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1092
http://jeepinwv.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1115&highlight=broken+ring+pinion
 
Last edited:
on the Jeepspeed rig we chase for, he paints a large streak down each shaft so that when we pull the shafts for inspection, you can visually tell very easily if your shafts are twisted.
 
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