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Need This Tool...
- Thread starter ODXJ97
- Start date
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Go buy a T60 and insert it in the correct size ratchet box wrench, cut to length as needed..
lilredwagn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Carolina
Is it really that tight in there that you can't fit one of these in?
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1268
I think it was like $15 at autozone for a set of 12 bits, so I don't know why you'd want to pay half as much for just one.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1268
I think it was like $15 at autozone for a set of 12 bits, so I don't know why you'd want to pay half as much for just one.
yes it really is, there's almost no chance of getting that socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet in there, not without "clearancing" the unibody rail.
You could try a torx socket with a good pair of vise grips, or a torx socket with flats ground onto it to fit a box end wrench. Or if you want to sacrifice it then a torx socket with a piece of stock welded to it.
You could try a torx socket with a good pair of vise grips, or a torx socket with flats ground onto it to fit a box end wrench. Or if you want to sacrifice it then a torx socket with a piece of stock welded to it.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
I went to a bond auto parts sotre which carries "Parts Master" house brand. There they had a 1/2 inch drive individual socket with a removable torx insert. The insert is basically what you're looking for. However, I think you may need more than that.
Mine was way too tight to use vise grips, and trying the bit insert alone with a 12 mm box wrench, I pretzeled a pretty decent Craftsman wrench. So I welded a cheap 22mm. box wrench to the outside of the socket. Even then, I had to wedge the socket into the torx head to avoid slippage, and use a 2 1/2 foot cheater on the wrench to pop it free. After it was loose, I popped the insert out of the socket and proceeded just used it in a 12 mm box wrench the rest of the way.
If you do it the way I did, and the box wrench has an offset, offset the box wrench inward, toward the tip of the torx bit. I used a flat steel wrench from a Yamaha motorcycle tool kit and bent it, but the principle is the same if you use a regular wrench.
Mine was way too tight to use vise grips, and trying the bit insert alone with a 12 mm box wrench, I pretzeled a pretty decent Craftsman wrench. So I welded a cheap 22mm. box wrench to the outside of the socket. Even then, I had to wedge the socket into the torx head to avoid slippage, and use a 2 1/2 foot cheater on the wrench to pop it free. After it was loose, I popped the insert out of the socket and proceeded just used it in a 12 mm box wrench the rest of the way.
If you do it the way I did, and the box wrench has an offset, offset the box wrench inward, toward the tip of the torx bit. I used a flat steel wrench from a Yamaha motorcycle tool kit and bent it, but the principle is the same if you use a regular wrench.
sflier
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Danbury, CT
I had the same clearance problem with my torx set when I tried to replace the o-ring set (as usual a simple job all of the sudden became a PITA). So I took a break and went to Autozone and noticed that their (~$12.00) torx set had a very low profile (probably to keep costs down). I bought the set and it fit perfectly (attached to a breaker bar only however).
Bottom line, not all torx sets are the same length so shop around and you'll find one that fits. Here are the all the solutions I've heard about so far on these forums that seem to work:
1. Cut a torx bit and use a wrench on the remaining stub
2. Use an air chisel and trash/replace the adapter nut (not a fan of this idea but I'm assuming it works)
3. Find a torx bit/set with a low enough profile that fits
If you're leaking oil ... check these o-rings first, it's most likely the culprit and is often miss-diagnosed as a main seal, sump gasket or valve cover gasket. Even if you're "positive" it's not the o-ring that's leaking, do yourself a favor and change it anyway ... you may be pleasantly surprised. That's how it happened to fix my leak.
Bottom line, not all torx sets are the same length so shop around and you'll find one that fits. Here are the all the solutions I've heard about so far on these forums that seem to work:
1. Cut a torx bit and use a wrench on the remaining stub
2. Use an air chisel and trash/replace the adapter nut (not a fan of this idea but I'm assuming it works)
3. Find a torx bit/set with a low enough profile that fits
If you're leaking oil ... check these o-rings first, it's most likely the culprit and is often miss-diagnosed as a main seal, sump gasket or valve cover gasket. Even if you're "positive" it's not the o-ring that's leaking, do yourself a favor and change it anyway ... you may be pleasantly surprised. That's how it happened to fix my leak.
Yucca-Man
NAXJA Member # 683
- Location
- Castle Rock, CO
I bought mine singly; it was just like Matthew said with the removeable Torx in a socket. I also drove mine out of the socket and used a pair of box wrenches to apply enough force to hold it and loosen the head.
From http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/filter.html
From http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/filter.html
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
Let's see if this works. Sorry, no digital camera, just a flatbed scan:
Original socket is 2" deep. 23 mm. wrench fits over outside of socket, leaving original socket end intact. I used a piece of pipe as a handle extension.
Original socket is 2" deep. 23 mm. wrench fits over outside of socket, leaving original socket end intact. I used a piece of pipe as a handle extension.
