Woody,
I'll try to answer these as if I didn't have to re-do the head and cam because of a poor engine builder...
How much $$$$ (internal engine parts, machining and assembly labor, peripheral parts like injectors, exhaust, TB, ignition upgrades) are you folks with stroker 4.0s ending up spending?
The kit I put together from Mike had a lot of "upgrades" in it. I had Total seal rings, a Cloyes double roller (true roller) timing chain, SS valves, main cap girdle spacers that were custom at the time, the 30lb Ford injectors, an air intake set up, rods weight matched and ARP bolted, and the like. I also got as many of the routine parts as I could (rocker arms, seals, gaskets etc). Mike had better prices on Mopar stuff than my local Dealer so I also purchased my head bolts, manifold bolts etc through him as well.
My bill at Accurate ran around $2200
Now add to that machining and assembly costs and the new valve springs, retainers and keepers to go with and new pushrods because the ones that came from Accurate wouldn't work with the head work I had done and I dropped about another $1000 there.
Installation in the XJ and finishing the motor ran about another $650-750 but that includes a DEI wrapped Borla SS header (picked up at about half cost new but second hand), a HESCO water pump, all new sensors (cps, tps, manifold charge temp, map, water temp, oil pressure), a new fuel pressure regulator, and a new radiator (GDI that I later replaced cause it was crap)
I also had to have the AC recharged because of pulling around on the lines to much I guess (R12 runs about $80/lb around here) but I am not figuring that into the equation. I have not replaced my Throttle body but plan to with one of RE's this winter.
How much extra power do these typically produce, and has anyone dyno'ed theirs, or actually ran one to the end of it's service life? IE for the extra power, how much of the famous 4.0 reliability is traded off?
Mike and I figured my original configuration to be worth about 250 ft pounds of torque off idle and roughly 275-280 HP max. I did not have it dyno'ed but I would like to put it on one to see what I'm turning at the rear wheels someday. I do know it can walk a standard 4.0 in the mountains. I left Richard G up a pass a year ago in CO. I was pulling my pack trailer, kicked back on cruise with the air on and didn’t even know we were climbing the pass until we went by the sign. When I checked Richard wasn't to be seen and he had had his foot to the floor
. I also went off and left another XJ (stock and unknown driver) coming home from Moab last year coming up from Vail into Denver. He tried but just couldn't run with the big dog
. Oh, and I kicked a 4.3 S-10 Extreme's butt in my one and only drag race with it. I think I hurt the kid’s feelings but he has not tried me since :rattle:.
As for the reliability, my problems are documented but I do not feel this is the normal for a stroker. My problems with the head were the result of poor workmanship by the builder. I really think the cam-bearing problem I had was related to the head problem and rebuild/reinstall of the new head.
I expect the life of this engine to be no worse that those that it was built from. 4.0's and 4.2 easily go past 150-175K.
I realize that a beefed up 4.0 is a simple swap in deal (once the engine is bought & built) but is it cost effective vs. a swapped in V8? (new 330 HP SBC complete/less exhaust for like $3200 IIRC)
I think this depends on what you want from your rig. For me the reliability, originality, increased longevity over the V8, and low-end torque of the long rod stroker was what I wanted. If you go the V8, you have to figure in the new tranny or adapter, the added costs of a custom radiator, adapters for this and that, and added costs and time of installation. Not something I wanted to mess with. Granted to get my 4.6 to turn the 330 HP of the V8 I would also have to run a blower (another $4-5K or so) so again it depends on what you want to accomplish.
With 4.56:1 in the axles for 33" and the stock 2.72 low range gear, I've never felt that I was underpowered in my 200k, stock spec, non-HO 4.0 maybe I just don't know what I'm missing
I built mine because I needed more power at higher elevation and because after frying a rod bearing I needed a new crank and rods anyway. I convinced myself that it wouldn't be "that much more" to do the stroker over what I would have put into a straight 4.0 as I would have done many of the upgrades anyway. As for the power at low elevations, I think the stock 4.0 does great (especially in low range) but it never hurts to have more power. As it stands, I think I'm geared to low on the road for this engine. I am running the same 4.56/33's you are, but if I get on it I run through the gears too fast IMO. I will MTL stay with 4.56's when I go to 35's unless I want lower gearing off road.
Bones :skull1:
