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Rear axle bearings

H

highhilleer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
West Virginia
I've searched, really. I've found some info, but not for the Dana 35 in a 1997 Cherokee w/ABS.

I'm getting a whop-whop sound from the rear. It's a sometimes thing so I do not think it is the tires. In addition, the sound is new to the Jeep, but the tires are old. The last time I heard this sound it was a rear axle bearing. So I've been searching for a write up on changing the bearings on this axle. The only thing I've come up with is the autozone description.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/15/41/81/0900823d80154181.jsp

It calls for several special tools such as the MLR 6130 for removing the seal and bearing
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Chrysler-Rear-Suspension-Bushing-Kit--MLR6310.HTML

MLR 6436 and 6437 are needed for the install. I couldn't find the 6436 on the net, the 6437 is
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2047

So is this R&R of the axle bearings a DIY job or are these tools needed?

TIA
 
Last edited:
Yeah, you can go to Autozone and rent the bearing puller. (you'll get your money back when you return it) It looks like a slide hammer. Once you get the seals and bearings out, you can use a big socket to tap the new bearing back on, then tap the new seal on.

Pretty easy job.

Jack up the rear end

Support the axle with jack stands

Remove the diff cover.

Use a 1/4" 12 point box wrench to remove the inverted torx bolt

Pull the carrier pin

Bump the axles in and drop the c-clips

Pull the axles out and remove/install the new bearings and seals.

Just be careful not to rotate the carrier, and axles when you remove the carrier pin. Otherwise you'll lose the spider gears.. HTH
 
Have you checked the rear drive shaft u-joint (at the diferential)? Should be no slop at all there, and it is easier and cheaper to replace. I'm not throwing stones, just suggesting check the easy stuff first!
 
4xBob - thanks for the suggestion, I'll do that first

PW1XJ99 - Thanks for the list. You make it sound so easy! If the u-joints are ok I'll follow your list. The hint about not roting anything was not on the step procedure that I posted.

Thanks agaiin.
 
I just did this. I bought the Jeep with a bad bearing and didn't know it. It had a clunking sound, increased with wheel speed, then at speed it became a howl. When I pulled the pass axle-shaft I found a groove at least a 1/8" deep on the axle-shaft, where the bearing rides. Needless to say I had to get a new axle-shaft, bearing and seal. I rented the removal tool from Advance Auto but no one had an installer. I found the proper size socket from Sear and installed everything. HTH
 
PW1XJ99 said:
Once you finish the job you'll see just how easy it is. I'll keep checking in to see if you need any advice.
Click to expand...


Hopefully I'll be on it this weekend.
Thanks for the offer. I'll try to take some photos of the process to share with others.

Cheers
 
Here's some quick pics showing the pin:




I'm in the middle of rebuilding a Dana 35, and the bolt that holds in the carrier
pin required a 1/4" 12 point box wrench.





DSCF7691.jpg













DSCF7692.jpg














(Here's a ford 8.8, but it still looks the same)




Remove this screw:


Axle1.jpg













Pull the pin:


Axle2.jpg













rop the c-clips:


Axle3.jpg














Pull the axles:


DSCF7693.jpg













Pull the seal and the bearing with the bearing puller:
(sorry bearing puller not shown)


DSCF7616.jpg





You get the idea.. :wave1:
 
Defenitely check your u-joint at the rear diff first. I like to unbolt the shaft, drop it down and pop the two caps off and inspect. I would not rule out a tire noise either. They take time to become noisey, but when they do they sound like a wheel bearing. Try rotating your tires front to back. A wheel bearing noise will be a fast whoo whoo noise and will change pitch as you drive your truck at 30-40 mph and rock the steering wheel back and forth transferring the weight of the truck onto and off of the bad bearing. If the noise gets louder when you turn the wheel to the left you have a bad right side bearing. If it gets louder when you turn the wheel to the right you have a bad left side bearing.
 
has anyone else had a hell of a time pounding those seals and bearings out. after an hour on the slide hammer and eventually cutting mine out i found that the previouse owner had used lock-tite to put the seals back on. i guess he was seriouse about not having leaks or somethin.
 
Yeah sometimes the seals can be a pain. You can pry the seals out first. I just use an old flat screw driver, and a hammer. Then use the tool to pull the bearings. Keep at it, they'll come out..
 
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