windows wont roll down

ok let me rephrase that. they wont roll down with the switches on the passenger doors. they work with the driver door. I thought something might have been messed up in the switch so i replaced that and nothing is happening. It has window locks but i have tried with them on and off and none of the windows will roll.

I have the exact same thing on my '98. I figure maybe the window lock switch is broken, but I haven't messed with anything yet. Please post if you figure out what it is.

well its not the actual lock itself, unless the replacement one that i ganked off of my part jeep didn't work which is entirely possible. but hopefully someone has fixed this problem in the past.

Search for a post made by me. You need to just 2 wires on the 2 plugs on the back of the driver's side power window switch.

I had a full write up on it with diagrams, but earthlink removed all my files I had hosted and I no longer have a copy of my writeup.

Perhaps someone who had done it like I said could join in and post which 2 wires exacly.

Bottom line, you are not getting a good ground to the passenger sides window switches. Try playing around with your window unlock switch, that's what they originally do, interrupt ground to the other switch.

Also try giving the driver's door panel a good hit about 6" below the switch. Sometimes, a wire in the connector that plugs into the switch is loose.

You can permanently bypass the window lock switch by soldering a jumper wire between the following two wires:

On the BLUE connector attached to driver's power window switch assembly, splice into pin #9, which is a TAN wire.

One the WHITE connector attached to the driver's power window switch assembly, splice into pin #8, which is a YELLOW wire.

AZ Jeff, thanks for posting. The numbers sound correct, but I forgot which is which on the connectors.

How's your's holding up to this day?

Calata said:

AZ Jeff, thanks for posting. The numbers sound correct, but I forgot which is which on the connectors.

How's your's holding up to this day?

Click to expand...

On my 2000, I have been delaying doing this "upgrade", and my lockout switch acts flakey only about 30% of the time.

My plan is to take the actual SWITCH apart, and see if I can figure out what causes the switch to become intermittent. I will save the jumper wire approach as the final option, once I determine if the switch can be improved/modified.

AZ Jeff said:

On my 2000, I have been delaying doing this "upgrade", and my lockout switch acts flakey only about 30% of the time.

My plan is to take the actual SWITCH apart, and see if I can figure out what causes the switch to become intermittent. I will save the jumper wire approach as the final option, once I determine if the switch can be improved/modified.

Click to expand...

Been there, done that. CHEAP plastic is what causes the switch to go out. The contacts in that switch provide ground to the power window motors and the amp draw goes thu it. If all passengers go to operated their windows at the same time, that's a high amp draw.

If you still want to keep the lock out function, you could wire in another push button switch and secure that into your door panel on the side. ( But use a relay in the circuit if using a small micro switch ).

I'm thinking, what if you were to take 1 of the wires and ground it to bare metal ? ( Use the wire that doesn't show a ground on it already ). It would bypass the lock out feature, but the passenger windows will always work.

Personally, I would feel ashamed if a passenger in my truck were to go operate a window and it didn't work. That means more to me than a lock out feature which I never used in my life on any car.

Oh, and if you want to take apart the switch, you have to remove the buttons on top first before you can take it apart. Use a pair of duck-bill pliers and use light pressure to pull them off. Wiggling them a little helps them come off easier. ( Tape up the pliers so that you don't leave markings on the switch buttons ).