Oiling Modifications...

I first read Dino's lastest article on motor oiling modifications http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82890&highlight=Oiling+modifications and have a few more questions related to this subject.

I already have a Melling high volume pump and didnt need to clearace the oil pan. Are there different models of high volume pumps or oil pans used across the years? I am about to help put together another stroker motor for a friend and he has a high volume pump but are there any obvious markings showing its a HV unit compared to a stock unit?

Dino or anybody else, do you have any more photos showing the baffle on the back of the pan? Its hard to see the ones in your write up as they just show a top view. Anything that can give some indication of depth in the pan? I have to fix a oil pan gasket leak and want to add a rear baffle since I will have the pan out and more photos would be helpful.

Last thing is the oil pan gasket. Is the newer one piece gasket better than the seperate cork and rubber pieces? Do you still RTV the new one piece gasket or put it on dry? I had the cork and rubber gasket before and never had a problem with it leaking, then build the stroker with a one piece gasket and put it on dry and it was fine as per the directions. Then I had to drop the pan to replace the cam and the new gasket leaked as it was installed dry. Did I just mess up installing it or should I have used RTV?

Thanks,
AARON

Apparently the 4.0 XJ oil pan is the same across all years '87-'01 so it seems that the oil pumps must differ slightly. I couldn't get my pan to fit on the block without clearancing it from the oil pump body. If you look at the picture below, you'll see that the HV pump (left) is 7mm bigger:



I only have the top view of the new oil pan baffle that I added (photo below) but I can tell you that it's exactly 5.0" from the bottom of the sump (same as the factory front baffle) and it measures 2-3/4" from front to back.



The newer one-piece rubber pan gasket is much better than the old four-piece kit, and you do need to add a light smear of RTV silicone on the mating surfaces to ensure a leak-free seal.

I just got back from my friends house and working on his motor. His high volume pump is just like what you have pictured. Its beast compared to the stocker but there are no clearance issues with the oil pan. The main bearing girdle did hit and it took some work with a BFH to get it to fit. I didnt have to do anything to the oil pan on my stroker. I wonder why his was different? Also Golen engine sucks at installing the main bearing girdle. We checked the clearances from the rods and girdle and there was almost a 1/4" and the spacers used where 3/8 split lock washers and was being held on by grade 5 3/8 nuts. I pulled one washer out to see how that would clear everything and striped one of the nuts putting it back on. And 35ft-lbs shouldnt strip out a 3/8 bolt and nut. So it was off to the hardware store to get grade 8 flat washers and off to the autoparts store to get grade 8 3/8 nuts. We called tech support but they whernt there and I left a message asking what they where thinking when they put on grade 5 hardware. Just stupid in my opinion. Anyways thanks for the help.

AARON