Need help removing front hub....its frozen on there!

What the best way to get that SOB offf of there without destroying everything else? Will a puller remove it, or will that mess up the hub assembly? I've tried everthing I have except a puller....hammers, air chisel, etc.....aarrrrggghhhh!!! :explosion

Last time I did that job, I forgot to pull the washer off. That prevented me from getting it off. But I used a small puller.

When I did our TJ back in january the fronts were both rusted in there, my mechanic had what looked like a socket with no edges, just an open round socket that went in the chisel, backed the bolts out bout 1/2 way then hit each one with the tool and it worked it right out. About 5 seconds of blatting on each...
cleaned the surfaces backup with a scotch bright, copper anti-seize and back together..

RichP said:

When I did our TJ back in january the fronts were both rusted in there, my mechanic had what looked like a socket with no edges, just an open round socket that went in the chisel, backed the bolts out bout 1/2 way then hit each one with the tool and it worked it right out. About 5 seconds of blatting on each...
cleaned the surfaces backup with a scotch bright, copper anti-seize and back together..

Click to expand...

I just did mine - both were a bear to get off...this method scared me for some reason.

Here's what i did - get a puller from autozone (i had one circa 1940 that was designed to pull old hubs, worked like a charm, but i experimented with others first)....

Put the pull on there, turn it until everything is under serious pressure - walk away for a few minutes...chisel lightly between the hub and mating survace all around the surface....and keep applying pressure with the puller. Eventually, that thing will start to come off.

You definately need a puller for this job.

The best way I've found is to go buy a few M-12 (I think, take one of the originals with you to match the threads) X 4 inch bolts. Soak the seams (where te hub meets the brake backing plate) it in penetrating oil and hammer the bolts from the rear. By installing and removing bolts (with the tire removed), you can turn the wheel all the way one direction or the other and get a pretty good swing with a hammer. Hammering on the bolts, loosens the rust, while a puller usually stresses everything to the breaking point and then either the part you want out, moves or something breaks.
Tapping the bolts allows the oil to leach into the cracks and loosens things up. I use a moderate sized hammer and do the whole porcess with feeling. Cast metal is brittle.
The brake backing plate can be damaged by prying. The bearings can be moved around inside the hub some with a puller. IMO with a puller you stand a better chance of screwing something up. Worst case using a puller is that the hub seperates.
Sacrificial bolts to hammer on from the rear is first choice. A very sharp chisel between the hub and a *solid* (there is air behind some parts of the brake backing plate/stay away from the bolt holes) spot on the brake backing plate is a second chioce (nicks can be dressed up with a file). And a puller (IMO) is last choice.

First thing, make sure all three bolts are OFF, not just loosened (don't ask how I know that)
Saturate the hub/dust shield area where they meet w/ PB Blaster. Hit hub a few times w/ a hammer.
Last, put the tire back on & give the lug nuts just a few turns. Pull tire away from wheel sharply... it'll act like a puller.... keep pulling sharply away at the tire until it gives.
Before you take the hubs off, mark w/ a tire pencil just how the dust shield should go on... you've got to put it back exactly or else you'll do the job over when you have to remove it.
regards,
jlex.

Well, I finally did get them off and changed those devil u joints. I guess 240k miles is about all they will take! I honestly don't know if they were original, but the caps had the word 'spicer' on them so who knows. Anyhow, I ended up sacrificing a craftsman socket(maybe Sears will still replace it!). I screwed all the bolts back in a few threads. Holding the socket over the bolts with some vice grips, I kept turning the steering from side to side and beating the living piss out of the bolts. I took all my strength and about 1 honest hour and plenty of PB Blaster to get them both loose . All it cost me was all my energy, my favorite screwdriver(prying) and a 6 point 9/16 socket. I have never used so many curse words in a single day. I have changed these hubs on XJ's before, but never when said vehicle was 19 years old . I dont know if those bearings have ever been replaced, but they sure are in good shape, nice and tight. They sure were rusted on there pretty good! Thanks for all the input guys!

Congrats...did mine a few months ago.

If you were replacing both I'd recomend a puller since there is a good chance a puller will damage the hubs but since they would be replaced it's not an issue.

But I decided to replace both - and I was too stubborn to switch to a puller - so I wacked at the hubs with a hammer and PB Blaster for about hour or so.

I should have used a puller!

With my '89 one u-joint was dry and one hub was gone....not bad after 192,000 miles.

I usually just loosen all 3 bolts and run them out 1/4" then use a 24 oz ball peen hammer and work my way around to each bolt with solid taps of the hammer and it will usually give up after a few minuets. I've had some that only a slide hammer would get off!

flame wrench