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You build my Jeep! Need input ASAP please

Bradzuki

NAXJA Forum User
Location
McMinnville, TN
Hi all! New to board & this is my first post. I'm not new to wheeling, I've been building suzuki samurais for several years in my shop. I recently bought a '87 Cherokee and I'm in a pinch to do some upgrades fast!

I thought I'd turn to the experts to try & get input on what you'd do if you were in my situation.

My wife wants to go to Windrock in two weeks & Tellico two weeks after that. Not a problem by me, but we have no ride. The 4-wheeler is in the shop & my zuk is cut in half getting a new build. That leaves only one 4wd at our house, the Cherokee. Right now it's no where near capable of going but she has given the go-ahead to do what it takes to make it go. That's why I'm turning to you, help me bulid my Jeep to where we can make it through a level 3 (maybe 4) trail.

I have 2 weeks (leaving May 5) and a budget of $1500 to make it or break it.

Here's what I have to work with:
'87 4.0L, auto, 231, d30, d35, 3.55 ratio
It has a 3" Rough Country AAL lift with 31x11.50 Swamper LTBs

The rules:

Tires stay--they don't have 10,000 miles on them

$1500 budget--might could scrape a couple more hundred if she don't find out

No cutting of sheetmetal--body is in excellent condition

I'm doing all installation so no labor $$ involved

All parts will be purchased at Rusty's OffRoad--I can drive there & pick up parts instead of waiting on shipping.

That's it. Let me know which route you'd take if you were me. I've got some ideas but wanted input from others that are in-the-know. Time's a ticking......

Thanx,
Brad.
 
My ideas:

Adjustable track-bar, upper & lower control arms.

4.56 gears with a Lock-Right in the rear. Posi-Lock up front with welded spiders.

3/4" poly spacers front, shackles rear with a 1" t-case drop

Skid plate

Need some beefy front axles with bigger u-joints (which ??)

Header (Where to get one??)

That's kinda what I was thinking. Feel free to add or take away anything. I've got to call Rusty's to make sure he's got everything before I drive all the way there. Prolly go this Friday to pick up parts and do the install over the weekend.

Brad.



P.S. I forgot to mention this is my DD, everything has to work properly and be safe.

Edit to add:

Gonna order those knuckle inserts from www.goferitoffroad.com to move the drag-link to the top-side.
 
OK, Forget rusty's skid plates. You will kick yourself in the butt later, I have them and I wish I had bucked up and bought the Skid row plates. Whatever.
The Gas tank plate doesnt fit under or over my hitch (I was told it would) and I know this is trivial, but the bolts that came with my t-case plate were longer than they needed to be and had to be cut or they would rattle against the exhaust.

Not really sure about the Lock-Right, might be great, I just know that I am going after a detroit. Why are you going to Posi lock AND weld the spiders? And that is one thing I will NEVER do to the front. Even on trail it is hard to turn w/ a locked front end.

If you plan on keeping the 31's forever, forget 4.56's unless this is trail only. For a quick build, the 3.55's are fine. I have them in mine and it did fine in Moab (2" spacers, 2.5" AAL 31" Michelin AT's) If you want to go to 32's or 33's in the future, then go with the 4.56. There is no need to lock the front I dont think, and personally I wouldnt put a non selectable in the front, but there are people out there that dont seem to mind them.

Find someone selling their front axle shafts that have the 297 u-joint. for a quick build though no need to do this. The stock 260's *should* be fine with 31's. A buddy of mine has 32's on his and its fine.

Header for the Cherokee I have heard is a waste of money.

I dont know much about where you are wheeling, but I would get some rock sliders too, if you think there are going to be many rocks where you are.
 
Bradzuki said:
Adjustable track-bar, upper & lower control arms.

Definitely a yes on the trackbar; I wish I'd ordered one with my lift. You may be able to get away with the stock LCAs and UCAs with a bit of grinding on the LCA axle mounts. I'm running stock ones at the moment with 3-3.5" of lift on a 2000 and they don't appear to be hitting; YMMV.

Extended brake lines: the other thing I wish I'd ordered. Right now it's a pavement princess due to the brake lines basically acting as limit straps even with them relocated. Again, YMMV.

3/4" poly spacers front, shackles rear with a 1" t-case drop

The transfer case drop may or may not obviate the need for an SYE.

Skid plate

Yes, esp. for the transfer case - aluminimum housings plus rocks equals not good.

Header (Where to get one??)

Wouldn't bother with that ahead of the other stuff for the amount of power gain you'll actually get. Apparently, however, the 2000-2001 intake manifolds can fit the Renix-era XJs without any major trouble and provide a better degree of port matching; you may want to search on this as there're a few dozen threads on it.
 
Here you go. Put a budget boost(spacers and shackels) on top of what you have and get the correct shocks and brake lines. Adj uppers and lowers as well as track bar. Weld the rear and thats about it. This setup will do great at Windrock in anything you want to run, and descent at Tellico although you need the bigger tires at Tellico. I have wheeled these areas more than once and it was all done on a 3" lift, 31" tires and alot of cutting. When you head up there let me know and there will be a good show of XJ's there.
 
Make sure you have tow hooks
 
Bradzuki said:
My ideas:

Adjustable track-bar, upper & lower control arms.

4.56 gears with a Lock-Right in the rear. Posi-Lock up front with welded spiders.

3/4" poly spacers front, shackles rear with a 1" t-case drop

Skid plate

Need some beefy front axles with bigger u-joints (which ??)

Header (Where to get one??)

That's kinda what I was thinking. Feel free to add or take away anything. I've got to call Rusty's to make sure he's got everything before I drive all the way there. Prolly go this Friday to pick up parts and do the install over the weekend.

Brad.



P.S. I forgot to mention this is my DD, everything has to work properly and be safe.

Edit to add:

Gonna order those knuckle inserts from www.goferitoffroad.com to move the drag-link to the top-side.

Just get lock rights front and rear, keep the gears or go to 4.10 at most with 31's. As for axles, either find a front abs axle and rob its shafts or get a 96 and up front and rob its shafts. You will have to change the inner seal or try to find the yj ABS short shaft. Good Luck. Put rock rails on it, skid plates on the tranny, fuel tank, and tcase and call her done. IMHO you need bigger tires for the bigger trails at Tellico.... With that set up you can run most of the ones up to moderate. JMHO of course. Oh yea dont forget what they said about brake lines, I use yj lines front and rear. You would nto happen to know a guy named Jeff Lee from those parts?
 
Thanx all for the great ideas so far. That was my whole point of making this thread.

Why are you going to Posi lock AND weld the spiders? And that is one thing I will NEVER do to the front. Even on trail it is hard to turn w/ a locked front end.

As said before, this is a DD. That's the only reason I want the locker in the rear. With the front welded & a Posi-Lock, I can lock/unlock anywhere on the trail & be back to normal on the street. I drove a Samurai on 33" boggers, welded front & rear, NO power steering for a couple of years so I know what it's like to drive on the trail. It now has 36" Iroks & hydro-assist.

The 4.56s came about 'cuz I often pull a trailer with a 600+ lb. 4-wheeler on it & it has no power now. If I ever decide to go any bigger, I'll already have the gear.

I asked about the header because mine has a good exhaust leak that I will be fixing, but have read many times about the manifold being prone to cracking.

rredalty, We will be heading to Windrock May 5-7, then heading to Tellico sometime around Memorial Day. I just read on this site about a ride at Tellico at the beginning of July so I may try to make that also.

Thanx again & keep the ideas coming,
Brad.
 
You would not happen to know a guy named Jeff Lee from those parts?

Could you narrow it down? What parts exactly? I know of several Lee's from around here but don't recall a Jeff right off hand.

Thanks for the info on the YJ lines & the axleshafts. Any specific years to get the lines from or all all YJs the same?

I've been to Tellico many times in the zuk, never been to Windrock though. I'm getting anxious.
 
Trailfest will be packed that weekend. We are still considering going and having our own little run aside from the main event.
 
Bradzuki said:
Could you narrow it down? What parts exactly? I know of several Lee's from around here but don't recall a Jeff right off hand.

Thanks for the info on the YJ lines & the axleshafts. Any specific years to get the lines from or all all YJs the same?

I've been to Tellico many times in the zuk, never been to Windrock though. I'm getting anxious.
Yea he is into Jeeps. At least he use to be. Works in the trucking industry, dad drives, he is an agant for our company. He is actually in Murfreesboro but use to have an office in McMinnville. I got my yj lines from the auto store I used 94 imsc. The reason I said what I said about the axle shafts is that all the disconnect fronts have 260 u-joints. Later on they changed it to 297, but only the yj abs has the disconnect front with 297's and it is a rare bird. To get the big joints you will have to loose the disconnect unless you get lucky. And I drive an xj on the road with a front lock right it is not noticable to me.
 
Ghost said:
Just get lock rights front and rear, keep the gears or go to 4.10 at most with 31's. As for axles, either find a front abs axle and rob its shafts or get a 96 and up front and rob its shafts. You will have to change the inner seal or try to find the yj ABS short shaft. Good Luck. Put rock rails on it, skid plates on the tranny, fuel tank, and tcase and call her done. IMHO you need bigger tires for the bigger trails at Tellico.... With that set up you can run most of the ones up to moderate. JMHO of course. Oh yea dont forget what they said about brake lines, I use yj lines front and rear. You would nto happen to know a guy named Jeff Lee from those parts?


x2!
 
Yea he is into Jeeps. At least he use to be. Works in the trucking industry, dad drives, he is an agant for our company. He is actually in Murfreesboro but use to have an office in McMinnville

I konw a Ronnie Lee that is in the trucking industry and drives a highly modified Scrambler. He lives here & has an office here. Don't know if that's who you speak of or maybe he has a son??

To get the big joints you will have to loose the disconnect unless you get lucky.

By installing a Posi-Lock is that not loosing the disco? Or are you talking about running a 1 piece shaft on that side? I want the disco just for the fact of having 2-lo and being able to just weld up the front end. By having a 1 piece shaft I would negate both of those.

Trailfest will be packed that weekend. We are still considering going and having our own little run aside from the main event.

I wasn't going to ride with the big group. My wife & a few friends were wanting to go to see all the nice rides that will be there. I would like to do some of the light/moderate trails with a smaller group and avoid paying the entry fee for the trail-fest. I probably wouldn't pass their inspection anyway.

Thanx,
Brad
 
To run the 297 joints you have to loose the diconnect and run a long side shaft, unless you can find the yj abs shaft. It is the only disconnect shaft that I know of with the 297 joints. Not sure about Ronnie I know Jeff has a cousin that he use to wheel Tellico with but I dont know what he wheels it in.
 
Winch, bumper with recovery points, rock rails, ebay exhaust maifold, spare shafts and some lockrights................ That'll blow your $1500 if you are buying everything off the shelf.
 
Make bumpers front and rear for protection/extraction: $100
AJs sliders: ~$250
Lockright for D30: ?
Make tcase skid plate: $30
Gas tank skid: $30 at junkyard or make own
Adjustable track bar from rustys: $150?
1'' drop for tcase
Hood vents from junk yard, or spacer on hinges
Better steering system
Electric fan over ride switch
Thats all I can think of right now. Dont lock the D35. It might hold up, but you are just polishing a turd. Regearing is expensive, even if you do it yourself, and its not really needed right off the bat. Later, yes, but right now, if your pressed for time and money, its not needed. Header, unless your stock one is cracked, dont worry about it. Also, go to the junk yard and get as many spare parts as you can. Front and rear dshafts, axle shafts for the 30 and 35, steering if still stock. Im not sure about all the prices I put above, so dont quote me on those. Also, check all your fluids too. Blinker fluid especially.:confused1
 
Bradzuki said:
With the front welded & a Posi-Lock, I can lock/unlock anywhere on the trail & be back to normal on the street. Brad.


welded front sounds dangerous anywhere but on the trail(and maybe even there). You basically eliminate any benefit you might gain due to the loss of turning radius. I would never drive a welded front on the street. lockright or truetrac in the front would be a much better option.

I'd start with bumpers that are strong enough for recovery, skid the t-case and gas tank, and put sliders on, and locker i the rear/limited slip in the front.. 31's and 3.55 gears will be adequate for now, and then when you go to a larger tire size, you can up to 4.56 gears.
 
why not call Rusty and ask him? you'll be buying everything there anyway..

oh - and PLEASE track down spare shafts for that 35..
 
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