Opinions/Suggestions PLEASE.

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Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Bolingbrook, IL

• Apr 24, 2006

• #1

I've been busy today planning what I hope are my final mods on my beast. :bs:

My set-up in a nutshell: RE lift, 33 BFG muds, D30/C8.25 4.56 gearing.
XJ is DD and used 90% DD and 10% wheeling. Drive to and from wheeling so I don't have the usual luxuries with a trailer queen.

With my EXISTING setup, suggestions for locking the rear and possibly front. I know choices are limited with the C8.25 and all the "strength issues" with spline counts and the like. Without changing out axles, Question that stands: WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

Rockcrawling in the Central Midwest is limited although an occasional trip to the Badlands, (South Dakota variety) is on tap. Other than that, mostly Midwest Mud, creek beds, and tree slalom courses.

 

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Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Bolingbrook, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #2

WHAT... NO ONE HAS AN OPINION ON ?? THIS IS A FIRST!!:flipoff:

 

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hippymill

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Montana

• Apr 25, 2006

• #3

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com

shows what options you have with 27 spline axles in the rear, plus a lot of options for the front.

I'm working on a detroit locker or powertrax no-slip for my rear, and a truetrac for my front on my '95(same axles as you)

you can do the rear cheaper with a lunchbox locker, and avoid redoing the carrier and such. If you really want nice on-road behavior and rock solid off-road then spring for ARB air lockers or ox lockers front and rear. I'd do this if it weren't for the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ involved in these.

 

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Rev Den

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Plainfield, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #4

ARB

Rev

 

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PAPXJ

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Meridian, ID

• Apr 25, 2006

• #5

Rocketman said:

WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

Click to expand...

I would go the cheapest route possible because I am on a very very tight budget. Put a lockright up front and call it good. If you did more wheelin and spent less time on the street I would weld up the rear.

But if money isn't a huge issue I would go with ARB's front and rear no question.

 

Goatman

NAXJA Forum User

NAXJA Member

Location

Bakersfield, CA

• Apr 25, 2006

• #6

Any locker for the rear that fits your budget will work fine. On road characteristics with a rear automatic locker are really no issue, many have them and are completely happy. Really, you can't go wrong with whatever you do, there are no BAD lockers out there. It comes down to what driving characteristics you're after and what you're budget is.

Personally, unless you're going to get 29 spline shafts and do a gear change at the same time, I'd stick with a lunchbox locker for the cost and ease of installation. I'd lock the rear and see how you like it, then decide if you want to lock the front.

 

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Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Bolingbrook, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #7

Thanks everyone... The DTS link was nice in showing all their products for all diffs.

One last question. On the D30 will I need a different carrier going from 3.55 to 4.56. The cut off on which carrier goes to which gears is confusing to say the least as threads here say 3 or 4 different things. I have the Superior brand master rebuild kit and the ring and pinions. I'm having the suggested local "Gear Guru" (the guy in Bridgeview) do the install. Do I need to worry about spyder gears and a new carrier too before walking in the door. As usual, I'm confused. (Take it easy MWC, I need some advice here )

 

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Rev Den

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Plainfield, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #8

If you go wiht an ARB in the front, you do not have to worry about the carrier and spiders.



No BS here....with the amount of driving you do on the street, and kind of snow we get around here, and ice, and plows that make it just a little worse, go ARB's...you will not be sorry.

Rev

 

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Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Bolingbrook, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #9

I would Rev... So much $$$ for ARB's once you factor in air compressor, labor and such. Detroits are an option too. Regearing and locking this thing is gonna cost more than I paid for it 3 years ago ($2300) I have almost twice that in it already before gears. YEECH. I go from one major expensive hobby (rocketry) to another.

Wheeling more fun though... rockets were $$$$$$$. $1200+ to build a bird with avionics and recovery. $450 for each 6 second powered flight up to 15K feet and 120 seconds to recovery. Sure, they went mach+ but it wasn't like you were going for the ride or anything!!

 

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PAPXJ

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Meridian, ID

• Apr 25, 2006

• #10

Rocketman said:

On the D30 will I need a different carrier going from 3.55 to 4.56.

Click to expand...

Yes. Carrier break is 3.55 and down, and 3.73 and up.

 

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zthang43

NAXJA Forum User

Location

WA state

• Apr 25, 2006

• #11

I put a Powertrax No-Slip in my 8.25 when I did the 4.56's. I've had it in for a month or two now and really like it; I would definitely recommend it. I drive my XJ about 90% on the street (or gravel roads) as well.

The TrueTrac seems to be a good option for the front; I was going to buy one but didn't have the cash so I can't comment on how they work.

 

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Rocketman

NAXJA Forum User

Location

Bolingbrook, IL

• Apr 25, 2006

• #12

Powertrax seems like an inexpensive option for the rear... Even less espensive is the OEM limited slip. Anyone with one comment on it's use/quality etc...

OK... I know now I need a new carrier (D30) as well as ring/pinion/master kit. Do I need a loaded or an open?? Do the spyders transfer over from 3.55 to 4.56??