Not sure if 2WD's have control arms, never been under one. I wrote this whole response thinking about 4WD Jeeps, and forgot that you had mentioned 2WD. Hope it helps nonetheless. But here's a rundown of what I did.
Titan, yes, it's lifted, albeit with a homebrew kit. I used F100 coils with spacers for a total lift of 3.75". Reason I mention that is the F100 coils are obviously stiffer than a normal lift spring.
In a nutshell, here's what I did for the passenger side:
Lifted the front end of the Jeep removing both front tires. Disconnected the sway bar (quick disconnects) knowing that I was going to have to move the axle around to get the holes to line up later. I started with the bolt at the axle (remember, we're talking about the Upper Control arms), then fought for hours trying to get the bolt out of the perch. Since lifting, it changed the angles on that upper control arm. I eventually got it out, then loosened the rear, and it popped out.
Point of interest. Having a few ratcheting straps is EXTREMELY useful, as there a few holes under the jeep, used in conjunction with the Axle perch, that helps align the holes when you need to put the bolt back through. Had I known this, it also would have helped in the removal of the bolt. Since yours is stock, I would imagine, since the suspension geometry hasn't been changed, that you might be ok. I good place to jack up the axle to get it to rotate towards the rear (mind you, rotating the top of the pass. perch) was the lower edge of the track bar mount.
Since mine is lifted, loosening, and subsequently removing the lower control arm helped out tremendously, I just removed the lower control arm where it attaches to the body. Again, once the upper is in place, using a combinations of jack and straps, I was able to get it realigned to bolt back in.
The drivers side is a whole different story. I actually had the driver side upper control arm off the Jeep in 15 minutes. The next 6 hours were spent on removing the bushing that is pressed into the top of the axle, on top of the diff. I finally got it out after going to Lowes/ Home Depot and fabricating a home kit for removing bushings. I grabbed every washer I could find, and quite a few bolts long enough to where if I had one too short, I had one that was longer. Coupled with the bearing remover kit I bought at Harbour Freight, which to me was essential, as it had the collar that went over the side of the bushing that needed to come out, not sure how to explain that. Basically, the bushing is going to come out one side, you need a collar that fits OVER that bushing, just enough room to when the bushing does start coming out, it has room to push into. The other side of the bushing, I used a socket that was just the right size that was used to "push" the bushing through the perch as I tightned down on the bolt.
I haven't yet pressed the new bushing in, the bolts I got to remove the old one are too large to slide through the new bushing, so I'll be hitting Lowe's again tomorrow for smaller bolts. Reason for the diff. size bolts is the old Bushing on top of the axle, the sleeve came out, so I could fit a larger bolt through it initially, not thinking ahead of time that I would have to have a smaller bolt that would fit through the new bushing.
Welp, that was long winded, but wanted to try to get down in detail what I did. Thanks again for everyone's input. It's true, Jeeper's take care of Jeeper's.
James
