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mudrat
April 21st, 2006, 19:26
i was thinking of welding my front and going with a powertrax lockright for the rear.is this a bad idea?also was shopping for gears i have 8.25 chrysler and i would like to run 4.88 but no one seems to have this for the 8.25.any info is appreciated.
93' xj 4.0 ho

Matt98XJ
April 21st, 2006, 19:27
I would by no means weld the front end on a jeep that is going to be driven on the road at all. But thats just me.

Shomsky462
April 21st, 2006, 19:34
the 8.25 cant hold 4.88's the highest you can go is 4.56 and when you do decide to get these gears you have to get a new carrier to hold deeper gears. the cut off is 3.73 so if you have stock gears already higher(numberically) than that then you dont need to get a new carrier. swap in a dana 44 and you can go up to 5.83 if you want but then again your dana 30 can only hold 4.88.
hope this helped.
-Shomsky

Tally_XJ
April 21st, 2006, 19:36
Here is my 2cents:

I just did exactly that. . . . weld the front end spider gears. I wish I had NOT done this!

While it certainly provides positive traction up front, it manifests a lot of gremlins that was not evident before.

Since the front drive shaft normally does not turn when driving (on the disconnect models such as mine), it now will turn all the time. This showed up a hellacious vibration up front. Caused me to replace every u-joint in the rear shaft as well as the front, and I still have the vibration. Seems now I will need to either balance the shaft or get a new one.

On the non-disconnect models, the front wheels are constantly locked and will skip and chirp on tight turns just like the rear wheels will on a welded rear axle.

I say lock both ends. Do a Detroit or Ox locker out back and a Powertrax or Detroit up front.

87manche
April 21st, 2006, 19:41
I'd rather do a detroit or lockright in the back and an ox or ARB in the front, that way you can open the front diff for road use and tight trail turns.

Jes
April 21st, 2006, 20:06
i was thinking of welding my front and going with a powertrax lockright for the rear.is this a bad idea?also was shopping for gears i have 8.25 chrysler and i would like to run 4.88 but no one seems to have this for the 8.25.any info is appreciated.
93' xj 4.0 ho

Do not weld the front.

BrettM
April 21st, 2006, 20:23
weld the rear and get a lockright for the front. this is still not an ideal combination by any means, but far better than the reverse.

Oatmeal
April 21st, 2006, 20:47
the highest you can go is 4.56 and when you do decide to get these gears you have to get a new carrier to hold deeper gears. the cut off is 3.73.........

-Shomsky I believe you're mistaken about the cut off point on the 8.25 being 3.73, everything I've read on it says 2.71 here for example: http://www.drivetrain.com/chrysler8.25.html ----------Hans

Oatmeal
April 21st, 2006, 20:48
the highest you can go is 4.56 and when you do decide to get these gears you have to get a new carrier to hold deeper gears. the cut off is 3.73.........

-Shomsky I believe you're mistaken about the cut off point on the 8.25 being 3.73, everything I've read on it says 2.71 Here for example: http://www.drivetrain.com/chrysler8.25.html ----------Hans

Oatmeal
April 21st, 2006, 20:57
I guess I must have double posted. How in the heck do you delete a post?--------Hans

PAPXJ
April 21st, 2006, 22:45
Do not weld the front.

x2

I would not weld a front non-disco D30. I love my welded disco D30, but I would hate it if I wasn't able to unlock the passenger side axle shaft. I have tried driving on the street with both sides locked and it is unbearable.

Ramsey
April 21st, 2006, 23:17
dont weld the front, especially without lockouts and street time. the 8.25 only goes to 4.56s and no new carrier is needed.

LilRedRover
April 22nd, 2006, 07:29
dont weld the front, especially without lockouts and street time. the 8.25 only goes to 4.56s and no new carrier is needed.

x2... either spend the money on lockout hubs or a selectable locker... either way you're looking at close to 800 dollars...

tealcherokee
April 22nd, 2006, 08:17
i had a welded d44 on 35's

it worked great

i broke the u joints in my driveway (i was trying to, but....)

grundan
August 12th, 2006, 07:42
I know this is an old post but as I was "searching" I had to ask. 87 D30 disco. what are the drawbacks to welding it up? as long as I keep the disco. stock. gonna run 32's or 33's. not a hard core xj, just our hunting rig to take to the mtns.

Rev Den
August 12th, 2006, 10:11
I know this is an old post but as I was "searching" I had to ask. 87 D30 disco. what are the drawbacks to welding it up? as long as I keep the disco. stock. gonna run 32's or 33's. not a hard core xj, just our hunting rig to take to the mtns.

BOOM!

wiht the disco you are in a little better shape, but the D30 will not stand up to the abuse, even slight, when welded.
Of course...there are those that never seem to break anything, and those that can break everything, but my advice is do not weld a D30, take it or leave it.

Rev