• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Is the cryco 8.25 crap?

PNWXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA
I am needing a new rearend to replace my worn D35. I unfortunatly am lacking $$$ right now and need something soon. I was originally wanting to get a 8.8 but the $$$ people want for them is a little more than I have right now, same with the XJ D44.
I know someone (maybe on here?)that has a 8.25 that he will sell for $100 which is way less than anything else I have seen yet.. I have *heard* that the 8.25 is almost as strong as the D44 and a definate upgrade from my 35. But then I have also heard that they are junk and marginally stronger than the 35. So whats the real deal?
My *plan* if I do get this axle is to regear it to 4.56 and leave it open for now untill I have enough to upgrade to 29spline shafts and an ARB. Right now I am running 33s and plan to get 34" Trxus soon. I am also pretty easy on my equipment so I think it will work fine for my use but I dont want to spend money on crap either.
Sorry for the whole story.

Thanks

Tim
 
if u run 29 spine shafts they can usually be run with 33's pretty safely...some will say up to 35's. i say go for it :D

Brad
 
I may have one coming up in about a month and a half, but I doubt abnytime sooner.
 
I wouldn't say the 8.25 is crap (I'm runnin' a 27 spline on 33s) but if your 35 can hold out till more cash becomes available, wait for the 8.8. If not, make sure you get a 29 spline 8.25 from the start. By the time you get a 27 spline, convert it and regear, you've spent more money than on the 8.8 w/discs.
 
What the above posts have not clearly stated is that there were two versions on the 8.25 axle in the XJ. The early versions used a 27-spline axle shaft that is essentially the same size as a Dana 35 axle shaft, and the same spline count. So you get a stronger axle tube, no increase in shaft strength, and a lower and longer pinion to deal with.

The later 8.25s have a larger diameter 29-spline axle shaft. I can never remember what year that started -- I think it was '96 or '97. If you're paying money for an 8.25, don't buy anything other than the 29-spline version.
 
Eagle

It was 97 when they Made the 29 spline 8.25's.

Justin;)
 
Well this is what I am thinkin about the whole deal;

92 chrysler 8.25 $100
4.56 + install kit $300+ labor if a friend of mine cant do it:D
so $400 for initial get it going
then 29 spline shafts @ wrecking yard $72 for both and then the ARB $630

A 97+ 8.25 goes for $350 around here
A 8.8 goes for $500 here but then I need to regear, buy brackets, buy brake cables, ect.. so like $900+... alot more than I have right now.:(

Tell me if this sounds crazy or not...

Tim
 
Oh yeah a XJ D44 goes for $350 incomplete about 6+ hours away. Also I have seen many deals on a couple of these boards but shipping kills the price.:mad:

Tim
 
I've spent a pretty good amount of money on my 29-spline 8.25 and if I had it to do over I can't say I would do it again. It hasn't let me down on the trail (5-speed, 4.56 gears, and 34" tires) but I have gone through three sets of pinion bearings in three years. If you have one great, but I wouldn't go out looking for one. If you can wait, save up and get a Dana 44, forget about the 8.8. The 8.8 has the same major drawbacks the 8.25 has. One, it's a c-clip design just like the 8.25. Two, both axle have a useless lip hanging down that just loves to get hung up on rocks. I curse my 8.25 on the rocks. It can take the punishment but it's a ground clearance killer. I have plans for that once this wheeling season is over though ;).
 
I decided "not" to spend more money on mine!Since Im doing a re-gear and an ARB Im putting my money in a 44.The only problem with mine has been noise!
 
Could someone tell me if the COMPLETE drum brakes will swap between my D35 and a XJ D44? Reason being one of the XJ D44s are complete just without complete brakes...I know what your gonna say and that is just get discs, well its all about the $$$ and makin it work right now..

Tim
 
Could someone tell me if the COMPLETE drum brakes will swap between my D35 and a XJ D44?
The 35 uses 9" drums, and the XJ 44 uses 10" drums. It's probably possible to use your old brakes but it won't be bolt in by any means. The 10" brakes are one of the advantages of the 44 so I think your effort would be better spent looking for a complete 44, or looking for brakes for the one you found.

GL
 
Is the D35 under your '90 a c-clip model or non-c-clip?

The brakes from a non-c-clip D35 will bolt right onto a D44. And they should be 10" diameter (at least on my MJ D35 they are,) just narrower than the 10" D44 brakes, so you won't have too much of a braking difference between the two. Just swap over the entire system from backing plates on out... you could even leave them connected to the brake lines and just swap out the axle housing from between them.

If your brakes are from a c-clip D35, then it is a different story. I think the bolt pattern on the housing ends are different from the D44, and you'll have the 9" diameter brakes, which suck.
 
PNWXJ said:
...and then the ARB $630

Tim

Have you considered a non-selectable locker?

You could use some of that money to help you get the better axle to start with with.

My feeling is if you are going to upgrade, make it worth it.

Vug
 
The ARB is going to have to come at a latter date either way I go. I am thinkin of spending a little more and just get a D44...I have to make some calls this morning..

Also for the brakes are concerned why wouldnt the c-clip D35 brakes fit on the D44? Many people have taken the discs off of c-clip ZJs right? I know my current brakes suck but this would only be temporary till I could pay for some disks. I know this all sounds silly but when you are on a tight budget you gotta do what you gotta do...

Tim
 
You could probably make them fit with some drilling involved, but there may also be issues with backing plate thickness and need of a spacer as with the ZJ disc installation. I was trying to make a recommendation that didn't require modification.
 
Thanks, that is what I needed to know. I may have found a D44 complete with the exception of the drums for $350 + 80 to ship to me... hmmm got to see what the paycheck brings...

Thanks all

Tim
 
I'll give you a bit more advice, as somebody who built an 8.25 all the way with alloy shafts and discs, only to get rid of it because of gear noise that even a full diff rebuild couldn't cure. If you can get the 44, that is a better choice, even if you have to wait and save. I run the 34" trXus you are looking at, and I had no concerns about the strength of the 8.25. The pinion and ring gear are probably stronger than a 44 as the ring gear is thicker and the pinion is substantially larger than a 44. I'd have run 35's on my 29 spline alloy shafts, and the discs worked excellently. But the 8.25 is known for noise problems with low gears, even if the wear pattern is good.

IMHO, the biggest thing to realize with axles is that you are probably going to replace everything: most people eventually upgrade to alloy shafts with 35" tires (the 34" trXus you are considering are essentially 35's), you will replace the diff and carrier (ARB), the bearings, and over time you are going to want rear discs. So what is left? The housing. That's it.

So ultimately you should make your choice on the housing you want. If you really want the best setup, and you only plan to run 35's and aren't heavy on the gas, then a
Currie high pinion 9" is the way to go. This runs a reverse rotation Ford 8.8 gearset on a 9" housing, with a custom designed Currie 3rd member. Ford 9" parts are the cheapest of any axle. If you just bought the housing and 3rd member, you could build it yourself over time. Take set of Lincoln 9" discs and Caddy calipers with integrated parking brake from a yard, and you only need $100 more for brackets from TSM for disc brakes. Locker/gear install on the third member will be an inexpensive and easy as you will get. You'll burn some coin on the alloy shafts, but with 31 spline alloys you won't have to worry about it. I love this setup - with 8" of lift my rear driveline angle is only 14 degrees. It is amazing how quiet it is - at 60 mph I can talk softly with my family as I don't have to drown out a ton of drivetrain noise. For you...maybe that does or doesn't matter?

So look at the total cost for each axle choice. The 8.8 is popular mostly because the price of the entire axle is the same as the cost of an aftermarket disc brake conversion kit. You may be able to build an 8.8 cheaper than any other axle. You can also look for a Toyota 8" off a late model 4Runner. They are 60" WMS to WMS, which is the same as the XJ. The axle shafts are the same exact size as a 44, but the diff has 1" better clearance (think strength of a 44 with clearance of a 35). You can get one with factory 4.56 gears off a 4cyl 4Runner, with the Toyota factory electric locker. These also have the major positive of 3rd member design. I had a line on one of those for $675 delivered to my door. All I would have had to do was cut off the old mounts and weld on spring perches (the yard shipped it to another yard after I paid them, and I didn't feel comfortable that they weren't trying to rip me off, so I canceled the order or that is the axle I would be running today). The 12.1" 4Runner drums would have been more than sufficient, so no need for a rear disc conversion. The only drawback? 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern, so you'd have to do some conversion to the front. For a total build with selectable locker, I don't think you can beat the 8" if you want 4.56 gears, simply because you have no parts or install labor for the diff - you already have the gears and locker you want.

But none of that is bolt-on. Maybe you should just get that 44. I wouldn't put any coin into an 8.25, even though in 29 spline version it is a major upgrade to your 35.

Nay
 
Nay - did you build your currie as yo described? I'm thinking about having Currie build me an entire axle, but I'm just concerned about replacement parts for the brakes, the shafts, etc. and wondering if I will always have to get the parts from Currie?
 
Nay-- thanks for the info. I unfortunatly am on a tight budget so he 9-8.8 currie sounds totally out of the question for me. I think it is best to stay clear of the 8.25 for now. Although it is MUCH cheaper I think I am going to drop the coin on the D44 I found or get an 8.8, more than likely the D44.. seems to be the tried and true solution. Also I just got a letter from the IRS and soposively I am getting $400 so that will help!

Thanks for all the info on this

Tim

PS I am finally sending my membership form and $$ tomorrow!
 
Back
Top