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brent
March 28th, 2006, 16:25
ok, got them from clifford, they came with a nice little Yella Terra sticker, so anyway, followed the distructions installing them, not rocket science,

is it normal for roller rockers to be noiser than the stock stamped ones?

2001XJeep
March 28th, 2006, 18:52
First, let me say that I've never messed with 4.0 rockers, but I have built many an engine over the years and in my experience rollers have always been less noisy than stamped stockers.

FUNKYTEE5
March 28th, 2006, 21:46
Check your lifter preload first. It may have been altered due to differences in the roller setup from stock rockers. Are you running them on a stock cam?

Dr. Dyno
March 28th, 2006, 22:34
ok, got them from clifford, they came with a nice little Yella Terra sticker, so anyway, followed the distructions installing them, not rocket science,

is it normal for roller rockers to be noiser than the stock stamped ones?

Do you have the Yella Terra part number?
Did these roller rockers bolt on easily under the stock valve cover, or did you have to have some machining done to the head, valve cover baffles cut, or valve cover spacer installed?
I sent an e-mail to Clifford Performance over a week ago enquiring about the installation and never got a reply.

brent
March 29th, 2006, 06:35
Do you have the Yella Terra part number?
Did these roller rockers bolt on easily under the stock valve cover, or did you have to have some machining done to the head, valve cover baffles cut, or valve cover spacer installed?
I sent an e-mail to Clifford Performance over a week ago enquiring about the installation and never got a reply.
# on the box is 6628

they went on fine, but I'm running the aluminum head and its supposed to have enough room to run the ones hesco sells that requires a spacer, but they are not much bigger/taller than the stock stamped ones, so maybe their claim that they will fit under the stock cover is true.

maybe the sound I'm hearing is just different than what it used to be, so it had me a little alarmed.

as far as lifter preload, I did what the distructions said, put the engine at top dead center compression stroke, install the #1 rocker, tighten down till there is some drag on the rods, torque to 25 ft lbs and this should be 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. all was good, should you still be able to turn the rods at this point?
it also said if you only got 1/4 turn to the 25 ft lbs, then to take some off the post they mount to, if you get more than 3/4 turn to add the spacer washer they sent with the rockers,

anyway, midrange is much better than it was before, still trying to decide on the top end

and I'm running Hesco's stroker kit .30 over with their cam, which they claim was a .470 lift

5-90
March 29th, 2006, 11:14
On a somewhat unrelated note - would it be possible for me to somehow get a copy of the instructions that came with them? Either scanned or Xeroxed - PM me and let me know, so we can iron something out.

I'd like to be able to add it all to my "tech repository" that I'm building. Like I've said before, what I'm working on is a "one-stop shop" for all things Jeep Tech...

5-90

Cjmartz2k
March 29th, 2006, 11:27
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/30753.pdf

5-90
March 29th, 2006, 11:47
Thank you. Manipulating a .pdf and reformatting it into .html is a little more difficult than I would like, but I should be able to work with that...

5-90

brent
March 29th, 2006, 17:45
so I found out what the noise was :eek: if you look in those destructions about adding the spacer if you have more than 1.25 turn to torque them down, well I didn't get that part right, so I'm trying again with new push rods now :shiver:

MudDawg
March 29th, 2006, 18:40
What happened to the pushrods??? Bent? Broke? ends worn off?? Are the valve heights set properly for that lift??? I have seen many engines die from coil bind including a few of my own:explosion

I have had a few rocker pivots wear out in the mighty 2.5. I had a set cryo'd last year...so far so good. But if they croak i'm gettin' some rollers too. I ain't gonna go lighter on the valvesprings...I need some pressure there.

brent
March 30th, 2006, 06:49
What happened to the pushrods??? Bent? Broke? ends worn off?? Are the valve heights set properly for that lift??? I have seen many engines die from coil bind including a few of my own:explosion

I have had a few rocker pivots wear out in the mighty 2.5. I had a set cryo'd last year...so far so good. But if they croak i'm gettin' some rollers too. I ain't gonna go lighter on the valvesprings...I need some pressure there.
bent 8 of them, everything looks good now with the spacer washers installed, we'll see.

brent
March 31st, 2006, 07:58
pics of them compaired to a stock rocker
http://www.loganglass.net/pb/wp_c6957de9/images/img8586442d5059e034c.jpg
http://www.loganglass.net/pb/wp_c6957de9/images/img19172442d506c259b0.jpg
http://www.loganglass.net/pb/wp_c6957de9/images/img7590442d507dbc92b.jpg
http://www.loganglass.net/pb/wp_c6957de9/images/img13660442d50925e8d9.jpg

karter74
March 31st, 2006, 08:07
If you bent 8 pushrods, i would start wondering if you chewed up your cam lobes at the same time....

brent
April 6th, 2006, 10:51
well after driving the thing arround for a week or so, I've decited I'm not sure I like them. it changed the whole power curve of the jeep, made the bottom end torque suffer, while making the midrange and top end feel, well like a race car, the whole scale is smoother so that was a plus but with the cam I'm running I did loose bottom end torque. so I'm thinking about a programable computer and soft ware, if I don't like it just plug in the laptop and tune away :D

Cjmartz2k
April 6th, 2006, 15:47
Well, I'm glad I went with the 1.6 RR's now. The cam that's in my stroker is freakin huge ( Duration 218 @ 50 for intake, 226 @ 50 for exhuast, lift is .493 for intake and .512 for exhuast with 111 duration)and I'm already worried about a lack of low RPM grunt with it, so I'm sure the 1.7's would have made it even worse. O well, guess I'll know in a few weeks when this thing is installed in the jeep.

brent
April 27th, 2006, 09:48
update on bent rods, apparently it wan't the pistons hitting the valves, but the springs bottoming, not allowing the valve to open up any more, this is due to the incorrect instalation of the rockers, found this out in changing the cam to a diffrent one and having to do the springs too. some of the inner ribbon springs were broke or cracked and a couple of the valve seals messed up. :shocked:

Cjmartz2k
April 27th, 2006, 14:52
Hmm. What kind of new cam did you get? Also, yoru keeping the 1.7RR's, right?

brent
April 28th, 2006, 08:33
Hmm. What kind of new cam did you get? Also, yoru keeping the 1.7RR's, right?
went with one from clifford, 296 lift, 264 duration, same with intake and exhaust, gives me 503 valve lift with the 1.7 rockers, the cam I took out was a hesco RVOB cam.

Cjmartz2k
April 28th, 2006, 12:50
So did you get it up and running or are you still doing the install? I was just wondering if you still had the same impressions of the lack of low end and better high end now that they aren't bottoming out springs and what not. I have the yella terra 1.6's, and I was just wondering how the two compare. Maybe if you don't like them, I might want to pick yours up and try them on mine. My cam is .512 lift, i wonder what that would be at 1.7 ratio? Pretty big I'm sure.

Dr. Dyno
April 29th, 2006, 08:33
My cam is .512 lift, i wonder what that would be at 1.7 ratio? Pretty big I'm sure.

You definitely WON'T want to run 1.7 ratio rockers. These will raise valve lift from 0.512" to 0.544" and you'll be asking for trouble. Firstly, at anything over 0.525" of lift, the spring retainers will hit the valve stem oil seals. Secondly, unless you install Mopar valve springs that are rated up to 0.600" lift, the springs will reach coil bind at about 0.525" of lift. Thirdly, you may not have enough piston to valve clearance with 0.544" of lift so that could put the engine at risk of some expensive damage. Fourthly, your head won't flow enough air to justify using any set-up with more than 0.500" of valve lift.

brent
April 29th, 2006, 09:09
So did you get it up and running or are you still doing the install? I was just wondering if you still had the same impressions of the lack of low end and better high end now that they aren't bottoming out springs and what not. I have the yella terra 1.6's, and I was just wondering how the two compare. Maybe if you don't like them, I might want to pick yours up and try them on mine. My cam is .512 lift, i wonder what that would be at 1.7 ratio? Pretty big I'm sure.

head is at the machine shop getting the spring seats turned for the bigger spring diameter for the new springs, also waiting on new stem seals, and correct spring keepers and locks.


ditto what dyno said.

Cjmartz2k
April 29th, 2006, 10:34
Well, I have a Golen stroker that already has compcams springs with the seats machined down to fit, and I'm not sure, but I think that would probably cover the coil bind. It's a short rod stroker too, so I think it might have the piston vs valve clearance also. As for the rest about not enough flow, your probably right, and these would be a bad idea for me. Just a kicking around ideas. Maybe down the road if I can ever afford an aluminum head, these might work? I still probably wouldn't have the flow to justify these. Like I said, I was just throwing it out there. Thanks for the warning though guys!

Brent, the other question still stands. Did you like the 1.7's anymore after you got them installed properly with you new cam, or are they still to much? They look just like the 1.6's I got from Yella Terra. I think they are like you guy figured out earlier, made by Yella Terra.

EDIT: Brent, I just saw where you said the head is still at the shop. Let us know if you like the RR's anymore when you get everything together!

Dingo509
May 3rd, 2006, 11:44
Well, I have a Golen stroker that already has compcams springs with the seats machined down to fit, and I'm not sure, but I think that would probably cover the coil bind. It's a short rod stroker too, so I think it might have the piston vs valve clearance also.

The way to make sure is to pull the head and put a wad of clay on the piston then reasemble the engine and turn it over once by hand, with the spark plugs out. Then pull the head off again and measure the indent left in the clay by the valve. this will give you a good idea of how much clearance you have, i personally wouldn't take this number to be set in stone but at least it gives you an idea.

Dingo

5-90
May 3rd, 2006, 13:42
You're right - it isn't. I think you can reduce the operating clearance by .005" or so (to allow for the elasticity of the rods and bolts, and flex in the crankpin,) but you're going to get a very good idea from the "clay method."

One thing you might not have mentioned tho - once you spread the clay out on top of the piston, and you're getting ready to stick the head back on, make sure to lubricate the upper surface so it won't stick to the valves (might want to lightly lubricate the bottom as well, so it won't stick to the piston and give you inaccurate readings.)

Honing oil, WD-40, and other very light lubricants usually work very well. Have a head gasket on hand that is the same as what you plan to finally use, so you'll know the clearance with the compressed gasket.

5-90

Dingo509
May 3rd, 2006, 15:14
yeah all that too. :laugh3:

Dingo

brent
June 2nd, 2006, 08:08
Brent, the other question still stands. Did you like the 1.7's anymore after you got them installed properly with you new cam, or are they still to much? They look just like the 1.6's I got from Yella Terra. I think they are like you guy figured out earlier, made by Yella Terra.

EDIT: Brent, I just saw where you said the head is still at the shop. Let us know if you like the RR's anymore when you get everything together!
with the new cam they are great, idle is smooth unlike the RVOB cam, seat of the pants feel I've got good even power from off idle to top end, where the rvob was lacking the midrange, it was flat. and its even easier to chirp those 37's I'm running comming off the line.

5-90
June 2nd, 2006, 10:06
went with one from clifford, 296 lift, 264 duration, same with intake and exhaust, gives me 503 valve lift with the 1.7 rockers, the cam I took out was a hesco RVOB cam.

Hey - you don't have a "grind card" for that RVOB cam, do you? I've been trying to get information out of HESCO for a while now (I need to write them again...)

5-90

brent
June 5th, 2006, 07:04
Hey - you don't have a "grind card" for that RVOB cam, do you? I've been trying to get information out of HESCO for a while now (I need to write them again...)

5-90
I wish I knew where I put it, can't find it.