Can you explain this?

Im hoping this is why my ac isnt working. Looks like some jerry rigged splicing.





What Connection is that wire going into? (first pic, pencil pointing at it)
And what is it splicing into? (Second pic, Pencil pointing at it)

Thanks for your help :repair:

Its splicing into the heater motor.

Do you have more that one blower speed?

CMNCHE said:

Its splicing into the heater motor.

Click to expand...

Thank you.
But what is the connection(plug, picture one) that its going into? Dose anyone know?

langer1 said:

Do you have more that one blower speed?

Click to expand...

It used to have more than one blower speed before it stopped working. You can still hear a hissing sound when you turn the a/c on. Checked the fuses they are all ok.

The big refrigeration line (pipe) is the low side, the small line (and the canister) is the high side. When the low pressure gets too low (usually from a leak) most systems, have a switch to shut down the system. Multiple reasons for a low pressure switch (low freon, low pressure/temperature, plugged expansion valve), but the main reason being, that if there is a leak, so compressor doesn't suck air into the system. There is often also a high pressure switch (in the high side) to shut down the system when there is excessive pressure (often happens when there is some air mixed in with the freon, excessive heat from a failed fan or other reasons).
The compressor is a push. pull type pump and if the freon gets too low, the low side can go into vacuum and suck air into the sytem through a leak on the low side or the temperature/low side pressure can get so low the evaporator freezes over. A/C systems are designed to keep the evaporator above freezing temperature/pressure.
I'd have to look at a wiring diagram, but sometimes the line switch on the low side is both a low switch and a high switch (unlikely). This is rare in an automotive A/C system (which is designed to always be above freezing), it is supposed to prevent liguid freon (from a frozen evaporator and/or a failed thermostat) from making it's way back to the pump, the pump can't compress a liguid very well (they often blow up when they try).

Thank you for the detailed explanation 8Mud. :thumbup: Your help is much appreciated.

I still dont know why that wire was there, I took it out so hopefully it will not effect my A/C once I get the leak fixed.

the connector look like the connector for cruise control... do you have cruise?

Now...it looks to me like some one is feeding a ground or power (looks like power) to the heater blower motor from that connector. I'd look at the fuse for the cruise....

this also tells me that the blower resistor is likely bad, as is the motor.

hint: if you replace the blower resistor, you should change the blower motor too... it's pulling too much amperage and will blow out another resistor too.

speaking of blower resistors... there is actually a silver thermal fuse built into the resistor pack... usually its the only thing that goes out... commonly replaced with one from radio shack.

Yea i do have cruise. I just used it today, no problems with it.
Ill check into that blower resistor. Thanks

Snarky said:

Thank you for the detailed explanation 8Mud. :thumbup: Your help is much appreciated.

I still dont know why that wire was there, I took it out so hopefully it will not effect my A/C once I get the leak fixed.

Click to expand...

It is hard to tell exactly where the wire is running, the reason for the explantion, was just in case it was running to one of the pressure switches. Jumping pressure switches is a serious no no. I've seen compressors with air in the system and a faulty high pressure switch, build some serious pressure like 300-400 PSI (and higher). Refigeration lines start exploding, compressor parts start breaking and all sorts of bad stuff happens.

I have the same connector and I do have cruise control. The connector is not in use on my 2000 XJ and it is just capped with a red cover.
I believe that plug above is for the DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP MODULE. Not used in USA.

DESCRIPTION
The Daytime Running Lights (DRL) module is
installed on vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada
only. The DRL module, mounted on the cowl,
controls the operation of the DRL feature.

OPERATION
The DRL module illuminates the headlamps when
the ignition switch is turned to the On position. The
DRL module receives an input from the vehicle speed
sensor that indicates when the vehicle is moving. The
DRL module provides constant headlamp operation
as long as the vehicle is moving. Under DRL operation,
the headlamps are illuminated at less than 50
percent of their normal intensity.

It fits the discription and I do not know why your blower would be connected to it. Here is a few diagrams. Hope this helps and like I said it looks to be the same plug.
Alex



Plug

Sorry, previous post by me is incorrect. My bad. That black plug is an LDP ELEC. CONNECTOR for the Leak Detection Pump (LDP) used only with
certain emission packages. This is why it is not in use. Not all XJ's had that emission PKG with that pump thing in the upper left hand coner of the engine bay. But this still does not explain why the blower is connected to it.
Alex


#5 is the connector.
#1 is the LDP pump.


Black Plug Connector.

Thank you for looking that up for me, I took the wire out and have had no problems. Thanks for your help everyone.:wave1: