4.56's and 35's-36's

perez · Mar 28, 2006

i gota 4.56's and want to run MTR's or TSL radials but im wondering how the TSLs will hol on the street. wondering if 35s or 36's will be fine with 4.56's

Ramsey · Mar 28, 2006

it'll work but 4.56s w/35s suck.

BrettM · Mar 28, 2006

4.88s and 35s leaves a little to be desired, 4.56 would be worse. but far better than the schmucks who try 35s of 3.55s.

53guy · Mar 28, 2006

go a few pages into the modified tech section and there was a whole huge thread on 35's and 4.56's. It will provide much needed insight on 4.56's.

RyanM · Mar 28, 2006

it will work fine on a AX-15
what you got

xjoe · Mar 28, 2006

4.56's are good for 33's

RyanM · Mar 28, 2006

xjoe said:
4.56's are good for 33's

im sure he knows that, or he is running 33's now and wants to step up. its doable and not worth the money to go 4.88 or spend money to swap axles- just moving up to 35's.

nhrocker · Mar 28, 2006

skyjackedxj96 said:
its doable and not worth the money to go 4.88 or spend money to swap axles- just moving up to 35's.

I think that's going to come down to personal preference. Maybe for you the swap isn't worth it, but depending on how he drives, the rest of his setup, and his future plans, maybe it is worth it for him to swap now. I think some more info is needed, like driving style, terrain, what axles he's running, etc.

RyanM · Mar 28, 2006

true , its not worth it to regear stock axles from 456 to 488, but a 44 upgrade f&r would def be worth it in long run-is what i should have said

53guy · Mar 28, 2006

its worth it to regear if you can't afford the upgrades at the moment. Go as deep as your current axles will allow, so you don't fry your clutch and so you can get out of 2nd gear! lol. I can just imagine what it would be like with 3.07's and 35's. wow that would suck.

JLane99XJ · Mar 28, 2006

BrettM said:
4.88s and 35s leaves a little to be desired, 4.56 would be worse. but far better than the schmucks who try 35s of 3.55s.

only problem i see with 4.88s and 35s is the limit on top end, my 4.0 is screaming about 3200 rpms @80mph,
- but those guys with flashy blue lights say i should go that fast anyways..

afd516 · Mar 28, 2006

Go 5.13s.

tompatjr · Mar 28, 2006

JLane99XJ said:
only problem i see with 4.88s and 35s is the limit on top end, my 4.0 is screaming about 3200 rpms @80mph,
- but those guys with flashy blue lights say i should go that fast anyways..

Do you have 4.88's and 35's? I like to hear more about that if you do. I just did a lift and put 33's on with the stock 3.55's. It sucks! I am going to regear to 4.88's.

How do 4.88's compare to stock?

cal · Mar 28, 2006

I recently went from 32's to 35's with 4.56's, and it was a harsh change. I swapped my rear end from an 8.25 to d44, so went to 4.88's .. there is a night and day difference from 4.56 to 4.88's with 35's. I cruze at about 3000 rpm's at 73 mph (give or take), have fair power but still have to shift to third if i plan on driving on surface streets around 35 mph, it shifts into OD and has a hard time at low rpm's.

On the trail, 4.56 and 35's would be a pain, especially with a manual. If you plan on getting into the rocks you will probably need to do a 4:1 or lower transfercase.

-C

old_man · Mar 28, 2006

I have run 4.56's with 35's. While it was a stretch with the 4 banger and a 5 speed, I am now running them on a 4.7L stroker and an AW-4. While it would be nice to have a lower gear for compression braking, I have not found the need to have a lower gear on anything.

cal · Mar 28, 2006

I can imagine the stroker makes a fair difference. I'm on a bone stock 1987 4.0/aw4, although its only got 51k on the clock.

tompatjr · Mar 28, 2006

old_man said:
I have run 4.56's with 35's. While it was a stretch with the 4 banger and a 5 speed, I am now running them on a 4.7L stroker and an AW-4. While it would be nice to have a lower gear for compression braking, I have not found the need to have a lower gear on anything.

35's and 4.88's is where I'm going, because it's low as I can right now. I just did a few calculations and with my worn down 33's (measure actual 31.5" dia) I would be geared lower than stock(3.54's) and 26" dia tires. I'm guessing that a 35" tire would get me right around my stock RPM with the 4.88's! Does that sound correct?

How much performance lose could I expect going from stock to 35's and 4.88's? I figured the extra mass will be something to overcome. I could tell a lot of difference when I just went to 6.5" lift and had the stock tires on for a test drive. I figured I gained ruffly 400 lbs with my lift, 80lb front bumper, 60lb skid, 250lb for RK LA lift, 75lb for new D44 in place of D35.

KarlVP · Mar 28, 2006

Try out these calculators. They will tell you what your new gears will do for you (approx)

http://www.manoian.net/jeep/gear_ratio_calculator.html

http://www.dfw-tx4wd.org/Tech...Tech-Dept/gears.html

tompatjr · Mar 28, 2006

KarlVP said:
Try out these calculators. They will tell you what your new gears will do for you (approx)

http://www.manoian.net/jeep/gear_ratio_calculator.html

http://www.dfw-tx4wd.org/Tech...Tech-Dept/gears.html

Thanks!, I have done the math. What those do is not account fof the additional mass and wind resistance and whatever else I might leave out.

Regardless, 4.88's will have to do even if they are not ideal!

RyanM · Mar 28, 2006

i do not think those charts take in the factor of how much heavier the bigger tire is. it just does the 'math'.

4.56's and 35's-36's

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