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Rad in the Rear

drbobxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hemet, CA
Hey..
I try to find pic or if anyone has put the radator in rear of a chopped xj or not chopped..

what kind of pipe with you/could you run?? not sure if rubber would work or not..

So if anyone has done this please help me out..

thanks
 
I don't have a radiator in the back or a buggy, but i would think that only vehicles that dont go fast enough to have its forward momentum pass a usefull amount of air across it would, so.... the brick we drive even in buggy form would be better to run a radiator in the front.
I have seen Rock Crawlers ( IE: they crawl around, not very fast at all) with the radiators in the rear, and would think anything that is used as radiator hose would work.
Hope that helps,
-Jackson
 
ya u can put a radiator in the back of a chooped xj. if u go to http://www.claytonoffroad.com and under pictures go to competition vehicles you'll see claytons chopped zj which is practically the same. they're currently doing the same thing to an xj and it also has the radiator in the rear. as far as piping i believe anything used for radiators would be fine.
 
i've got a stock XJ rad in the rear of my buggy (4.0) USED 2 XJ ELECTRIC FANS. WORKS GREAT. no cooling issues, used expensive rubber hose from our hose supplier. DO NOT try to use Home depot rubber hose, it gets hot, de lams and explodes.
 
35xj said:
i've got a stock XJ rad in the rear of my buggy (4.0) USED 2 XJ ELECTRIC FANS. WORKS GREAT. no cooling issues, used expensive rubber hose from our hose supplier. DO NOT try to use Home depot rubber hose, it gets hot, de lams and explodes.
What about hard copper lines?
 
bud2.jpg

found this picture maybe it will help you out, yes I know its not an XJ...
 
35xj said:
i've got a stock XJ rad in the rear of my buggy (4.0) USED 2 XJ ELECTRIC FANS. WORKS GREAT. no cooling issues, used expensive rubber hose from our hose supplier. DO NOT try to use Home depot rubber hose, it gets hot, de lams and explodes.


have any pics of this?
 
Know how to solder?
use 1.5-2" copper pipe for hard lines with that nice napa marine quality water hose for some play.

it will be super cool because the copper will sink alot of the heat
 
Just a couple of tips, depending on which system you have (open or closed), but actually pretty universal.
If the piping goes down then up (any kind of air trap), you have to have some way to let the air out near the highest point on the engine end. If you have a radiator cap, it has to be near the stock height or above the engine(below doesn't work well). The air outlet for the engine end should be close to the same level as the top of the radiator cap (I used the heater in hose and cut in a "T" with a screw cap). And the recovery bottle should be pretty close to the same height in relation to the raditor cap as it was, you can go a little higher with the radiator and cap, but move the recovery bottle along with it (it just seems to work better that way). Though the recovery bottle location isn't as critical. A little thought can help avoid problems (water/coolant flows down and finds it's own level).
You almost have to have two openings, if the pipe goes down then up, because the air won't do it on it's own, quickly or efficeintly. And if the two openings aren't at the highest (or near) point in the system, your coolant is gonna run all over the place (it's gonna find it's own level). The last bed mount I did for a PU required a little tweaking. I lost a quart or so of coolant everytime I opened the bleeder cap, I lowered the radiator a little and everything was fine). I probably could have raised the bleeder outlet.
Also found out, you have to periodically bleed the air out of the engine end (I don't know where it comes from, but it seems to grow).
I also used blank heating pipe, a little heavy, but pretty much bullet proof. With some sand and a torch you can put some fairly clean bends in it. Heating galvinized pipe (enough to bend it) releases a lot of poisonus gas.
 
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