8.8 into my MJ

So, I've been searching, but not many threads about an MJ.
I'm probably going to keep it SUA. I know, but unless one of you MWMMCC punks wants to come help the noob thats likely how it's going to stay.
So here's the plan.
Stock 8.8 mounts are in the wrong location. Cut off the mounts gently and simply relocate them. I'll buy the MORE shock mounts, or cut the ones off the 35 and radius them to be reused on the 8.8.
The questions:
Weld the tubes? I'm probably going to make all the measurements and have it welded somewhere, my welding is far to crappy to trust my life with. I've read that the tubes spinnig is an issue if you break the pins holding them.
Second. What gear ratio? I'm running 31's now on stock gears, so anything is an improvement. I was thinking 3.73 or 4.10s 3.73 axles are wicked easy to find, I've got one locally from a 98 mercury that's $100 complete. I'll have to look for a 4.10 one. I'm planning on 33's at the top end for the time being. Likely when I lift it 3 inchs I may step up to 32s. I'll regear the front to match whatever the 8.8 is.
So gimme some input here. Who's put an 8.8 under an MJ? Anything to look out for?
I've been reading about the brakes and such, so I've got that all covered, but as far as fabbing mounts and such I'm a complete noob.

Go ahead and do the spring over conversion. If you're welding on new perches, might as well put them on top.
How soon till you get the urge to go 33's?

try user "dirtdobber" buddie of mine we just did a spring over with his 8.8
give him a PM he can give you the skinny on it
everything form relocating shocks and perches to brake lines and lockers

8.8 Bible - (spring over in a YJ)
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

another swap by the same author (spring under YJ)
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88-red.html

XJ_ranger said:

8.8 Bible - (spring over in a YJ)
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

another swap by the same author (spring under YJ)
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88-red.html

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yeah I read both of those. If I go spring over I may just get the MORE kit. Seems to make life easier. I think I'm gonna do SOA, you guys talked me into it. I can do SOA, with a 3" AAL and some spacers up front to level it out. I may end up at 4.5-5", which will be the limit of my short arms, but it should be bad ass. With that much lift I may just go to 33's if they'll fit, have to see how much room there is there, and get new wheels.. Would 4.10's be decent with 32s or 33s with a 5spd? I'd like to get away with using the stock gears in the 8.8, and just regear the d.30, or find a 4.10 2.5 d30 and do that for cheap.

I run 4.10 with a 5sp and 33's. For me, its perfect. However, if I were to do it again I would go 4.56.

HTH

Rev

Rev Den said:

I run 4.10 with a 5sp and 33's. For me, its perfect. However, if I were to do it again I would go 4.56.

HTH

Rev

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that does help Rev.
I think I'm gonna hold out till I can find a 4.10 axle. Then swipe a newer d30 out of a 2.5L XJ. Should be cheaper than regearing, and if I get a newer model d30 I'll get the beefier U-joints out of the deal.
So the plan stands at this.
4.10 8.8
4.10 D30
MORE mounts for the 8.8
SOA with an 8.8 should net me 3-4" in the rear, depending on how tall the dpring perches are.
I've got marks old 3" coils and control arms for the front to match, I can level with spacers. So I should end up at about 4".
Now we need to talk some tires. What size under an MJ with 4", keep in mind that I'd like to keep the flares, I just feel bad about cutting up such nice steel. I could stick with 31's, that would give me complete stuffage, and with 4.10s it should be pretty peppy.
One thing I haven't considered is my D-Shaft. I'm not worry about angles, since my driveline is super long, I'm concerend moastly with length. Any input?

Nate, I got 6" when I went SOA on my MJ, which fits 33's nicely. I'm running 3.55 gears with the Peugeot (lower 1st than the AX15.) I think unless you really want to go big (and expensive,) you should stay spring under. Changing to springover is so easy though you can do it later. I'm all for incremental buildups because of the learning curve that goes with it.

If the 8.8 has a longer pinion than the D35, your driveshaft length will be fine with the springover lift. I'm using my original one (D35) and it is perfect with the D44 I have now. However, if you stay springunder, you might try to find one from a AW4 or D44 longbed.

I would look into the TNT ubolt eliminators before I did the more kit. They would be less $ and gives a bit of some perks to it. like stock length shocks and with their shock mounts they include (yes they need to be cut down some, too long in my case) you will move everything up out of the way of any obsticles. Not to mention the grade 8 bolts (they come with them but) if you ever change leafs or such you dont have to get longer ubolts.. Another perk is that they allow you to move the axle back and front with ease! 1-1.5 inches.

Oh and they are less Money then the More kits and serves all the same function but with added benifits.

Just something else to throw in there

Oh and the MORE E-brake cables worked great for me!

Lawn Cher' said:

Nate, I got 6" when I went SOA on my MJ, which fits 33's nicely. I'm running 3.55 gears with the Peugeot (lower 1st than the AX15.) I think unless you really want to go big (and expensive,) you should stay spring under. Changing to springover is so easy though you can do it later. I'm all for incremental buildups because of the learning curve that goes with it.

If the 8.8 has a longer pinion than the D35, your driveshaft length will be fine with the springover lift. I'm using my original one (D35) and it is perfect with the D44 I have now. However, if you stay springunder, you might try to find one from a AW4 or D44 longbed.

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How much longer is the pinion on the D44 than the d35?
Pinion on the 8.8 is about 1/2" longer I think. It's somewhere in my numbers. If I stay SUA and go with your 3" pack do you think 3" of lift is enough to make up for that 1/2" I don't want to jam the yoke into the t-case and crack it obviouosly.
I I went with the TNT mounts I could always adjust the axle that 1/2" back. Or just have my current D-shaft shortened. Finding one locallyy is going to be difficult. I've seen a total of 2 MJ's in the yards, both were SWB and 2.5s

the spring over in the rear is going to be more like 5"
the one I helped with we used 4.5" coils up front no spacers and the rear still had some rake to it. by the way he is running 34s on stock wheels easy

I agree.

The lift height by doing the SOA will = (the rear axle tube dia) + (the thickness of the rear leaf pack).

ROBERTK said:

I agree.

The lift height by doing the SOA will = (the rear axle tube dia) + (the thickness of the rear leaf pack).

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I forgot about the leaf pack thickness! That's where the missing 2 inches in my thoughts were. So, looks like I'll be staying SUA, with a 3" long AAL. I may do shackles and then a small spacer to end up at closer to 4". THen I should be able to do 32's no problem.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction fellas. No that it's got armor and recovery points it's on to the lift/axles phase of the project.

Complete before our July 4th trip?

josh

87manche said:

I may do shackles and then a small spacer to end up at closer to 4".

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that would make your lift smaller...

I dont like the U-Bolt eliminators because it puts all the stress on the welds - all the stress of stoping/accelerating/ledge climbing/side hilling - all of that is on the weld - where with normal u-bolts you get 2 u-bolts sandwiching the leaves and axle together...

I have seen someone rotate their d35 spring perches and he was able to limp out of the quary because he had u-bolts...

87manche said:

How much longer is the pinion on the D44 than the d35?
Pinion on the 8.8 is about 1/2" longer I think. It's somewhere in my numbers. If I stay SUA and go with your 3" pack do you think 3" of lift is enough to make up for that 1/2" I don't want to jam the yoke into the t-case and crack it obviouosly.
I I went with the TNT mounts I could always adjust the axle that 1/2" back. Or just have my current D-shaft shortened. Finding one locallyy is going to be difficult. I've seen a total of 2 MJ's in the yards, both were SWB and 2.5s

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I think there is about an inch of difference between the D35 and D44. My rig was already at 3" with the D35 when I bought it, and when I swapped in the D44 I used a driveshaft from a AW4 D35 truck, which was an inch shorter. But when I went SOA, I put the original shaft back in. I can't really predict how yours will work out, you'll just have to try unless you can find hard data on the pinion length diffrence. But based on the rough numbers we are throwing around, since 1" works at 6", 1/2" should be fine at 3", especially if you add a longer shackle to be more like 4". I was actually considering doing just that rather than going springover, but decided to go whole hog instead. Don't worry dude, it'll be fine.

XJ_ranger said:

that would make your lift smaller...

I dont like the U-Bolt eliminators because it puts all the stress on the welds - all the stress of stoping/accelerating/ledge climbing/side hilling - all of that is on the weld - where with normal u-bolts you get 2 u-bolts sandwiching the leaves and axle together...

I have seen someone rotate their d35 spring perches and he was able to limp out of the quary because he had u-bolts...

Click to expand...

I meant a coil spacer up front to match a 3" AAL and a shackle in the rear.
I think I'm likely going to recycle the 8.8 mounts and just move them. Then cannabalize the spring mounts from the 35.

XJ_ranger said:

I have seen someone rotate their d35 spring perches and he was able to limp out of the quary because he had u-bolts...

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I sincerely doubt that....

Gil BullyKatz said:

I sincerely doubt that....

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your right - i just read it on the internet...

87manche said:

I think I'm likely going to recycle the 8.8 mounts and just move them. Then cannabalize the spring mounts from the 35.

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Huh?

Clean the 8.8 off entirely, use fresh perches, and your shock mounts are built into the MJ u-bolt plates. Spring perches are cheap enough that it isn't worth the time and effort trying to get them off the D35 to reuse them. Get new u-bolts and center pins (or socket head cap screws,) and you're golden. IIRC, MJ's use 3/8" center pins, whereas XJ's use 5/16".