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clutch questions

METAL MONKEY

NAXJA Forum User
Location
severance, co
my clutch is getting ready to kick the bucket. i have done some research and i am going to stay with an oem clutch. some of my symptoms include slippage when cold, but has begun to worsen. when i had stock gearing, the jeep would not stay on a mild slope in gear w/ the e-brake on (e-brake has been taken care though). the typical hard to get into 2nd at times, especially when cold. i have attempted to bleed master/slave hydraulic system, but i still have to increasingly let the clutch pedal out further to fully engage clutch. basically, i have a large pedal dead zone before i can even remotely feel the clutch begin to grab.

a few questions though:

1) what all do i need to buy from the dealership?
2) should i purchase a new flywheel?
3) how much can i expect to pay for all the parts?
4) how much approximately does it cost to have a clutch replaced at a
shop?
5) is redline manual transmission fluid ok to use instead of $15/qt dealer
fluid? i know not to use gl-5.

these are the questions i have compiled so far. is there anything else i need to look into?

thanks
 
With a 95, you should have an external slave. If you've tried bleeding it (by that obvious looking screw on the slave,) you may have already ruined the set. According to my 94 FSM, it's a non-bleedable set up. It's also possible that your clutch is worn far enough down that there isn't enough travel to fully engage it, hence pedal travel.

Also, according to the FSM, the flywheel isn't machinable. Your mileage may vary. But about the ONLY place to get a new flywheel will be a D/C dealer.

Expect 2-4 hours of labor if all goes well.

I've been running RedLine MT-90 for a couple of years now. Better than the stock lube, and RedLine claims no sulphur in it (IIRC.)

I'd also replace the pilot bushing in the flywheel. But that's me. Don't forget a new throw-out bearing and pressure plate assembly.

Everything but the flywheel should be available aftermarket.
 
just an fyi. a clutch kit from the dealership is $318, and a new flywheel is $351. i've decided to get a luk pro gold for about $100 less.
 
Fuel90 said:
just an fyi. a clutch kit from the dealership is $318, and a new flywheel is $351. i've decided to get a luk pro gold for about $100 less.

LUK would be the way I would go if I had a manual XJ [though I have done other vehicles with LUK setups ;) and been pleased]

You shouldn't have to replace the flywheel, unless it's too thin [very unlikely] or has cracks/heat spots... Just take it to your local carquest/napa and have it turned...
 
willyb said:
You shouldn't have to replace the flywheel, unless it's too thin [very unlikely] or has cracks/heat spots... Just take it to your local carquest/napa and have it turned...

Not according to the FSM. It specifies a max material removal of 0.005" (or some such silliness like that) and a non-flat profile.
 
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