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Steering Stabilizer replacement heads up...

Deyman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Souderton, PA
I was replacing my stock steering stabilizer yesterday, and was having a tough time of it. That center stud that's pressed in the cross link is a b**ch. After beating on it for 1/2 hour with a 2 1/2 lb. sledge, I decided to try something else. The neighbor was sort of curious about what I was pounding on. I knew I needed a two jaw puller, but I really didn't want to have to run and get one. The neighbor thankfully had one. I popped out that stud in five minutes with the puller. But I was actually thinking ahead a bit this time. I had boogered up the threads on the stud and the castle nut, so I couldn't get the nut back on to use the puller "safely". So I put a short piece of 2x6 on the top side of the stud as I used the puller. It was a good thing too. When that stud let loose, it split that piece of wood like a log splitter. I'm sure if that lumber wasn't there, my oil pan would have had some damage. I would have been pretty stuck at that point. Keep it in mind if you're going to replace the stabilizer any time soon.
 
Yeah, had a hell of a time replacing mine a few months ago also. After continued beating and some other "creative" steps finally popped out.Well worth the effort however.Made a huge differance in ride quality.
 
Funny, I just pulled mine as well 2 nights ago. My new Stab came with a new conical bolt, so I wasn't worried about preserving the old one. I also pounded with a 2lb sledge and destroyed the bolt. I went out and got the proper tie-rod end tool, and it wouldn't do the job. I had to use a air-impact hammer to turn the nut, and it still didn't pop, the jaws on the tool actually bent back and dugg into the cross-link, then the jaws wouldn't come off, they were like a vice around the cross link. I had to beat the tool off with the 2lb sledge.

Finally, I fired up the propane torch and heat the crosslink in the area of the conical bolt. This time it popped, and like you, with enough force that the entire stabilizer bounced off the oil pan.

I still have to drill out 3 rear shock bolts and 2 rear bump stop bolts that broke off, but all the other bolts are coming out ok from the underside so far. I also have the 2 exhaust studs on the engine to do (the manifolds are off the motor now).

I may begin drilling tonight. I'm got a conical stone for my dremel, I'm going to grind a centering divit in all the bolts with my dremel tool before I start drilling with my colbalt drill. I'm hoping making a nice deep well centered divot with the dremel will help me get the drill bit started well and centered. With a ginding stone, I can correct the center as well, if the divot is off center, I just keep grinding applying force in the direction the divot needs to go.
 
let us know how tapping goes on those rear shock mounts. I didn't have enough room to turn my tap and opted to knock the nuts loose and fish bolts through the access port next to the mount surface.
 
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