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2000 XJ any good?

Jackhill442

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Atlanta
I just talked my girlfriend into buying a 2000 sport with 122K on ebay for $3750. Is this a decent price? It has cloth, cruise, power windows and locks, tape only, 2wd, and steel wheels, and is in great condition. Are the 2000's as reliable as the mid 90's? Does it have the AW4 (it is auto) and the Chry 8.25 rear? Electrics, fuel pump, alternator, any of these problem prone? Please fill me in on everything you know. I have a 96 country with 215K and it has never had a problem and feels indestructable, and I want hers to be like this. Please inform me. Thank you very much!
 
I have a 2000XJ with 106K.

The only parts I have replaced other than fluids & filters are the battery, drivers front door window regulator, LF wheel bearing, frt shaft u-joints (vibration), frt pads & rotors and there was a recall on exhaust manifold shield.

I have a cold start noise that sounds like piston slap, last night heard a rumbling from the rear on accel but not coast so maybe pinion, at stop lights the TC lever rattles so the linkage bushings need replacing and on the freeway it is starting to get bouncy so probably needs shocks that are on the shelf in my shop but I'm to busy or lazy to change out.

I drive 50 miles a day and it's a comfortable freeway vehicle (except the bouncy).

Tom
 
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that's kinda scary, I have never had any of those problems, and I have twice the miledge. Do you consider your jeep reliable, or a pain in the butt?
 
2000 Limited here, NP242, I6, Up-Country. Just on the verge of turning 100000; bought it 13 months ago with 72000 on the clock.

No serious problems, but I have replaced the rotors & pads in the front. Everything else has been regular-maintenance stuff - fluids, oil, etc. Suspension's on its way out; shocks are basically OK, but the springs are shot. Seems to be a common trait on stock XJs, but the Up-Country springs lasted about 15,000 miles longer than the ones on my previous (2001) standard-sprung Cherokee.

Boatwrench said:
there was a recall on exhaust manifold shield.

Forgot to mention that - the 'manifold debris shield' (which is little more than a flimsy heat shield) is disintegrating on mine, and I occasionally get the heat-soak-related #3 cylinder misfire common to this issue. Not fatal if this happens, but be ready for it when it does. Those heat shields seem to have a finite lifespan; heat wrap between the intake and exhaust should help.

Overall, though, I'm happy with it. Distributorless ignition rocks, too :D
 
i like mine. i've had a boatload of problems with my 2000, but from what i've heard, i'm the worst case anyone has ever heard of.
while it was still under warranty (up till 60k extended warranty) it took: 2 transfer cases, entire front axle, rebuilt rear axle, drive shaft fell out at a stop light in city traffic right outside washington dc, fuel pump, gauges, oil pressure thingy, airbag module, PCM, engine bay wiring harness, TCU, handfull of CPS and TPS's, exhaust mainfold... its left me stranded at least once a year since i got it new, in 2000.
i doubt you'll have 1/5th of the problems i've had. i think it was probably a fair deal. i don't see 2wd XJs commanding the same kind of money as 4x4 models.
one bad thing is if this vehicle will someday turn into a jeep built for speed, the exhaust mainfold is going to be very expensive to replace. most 2000 and 2001 XJs have 3 catalytic converters, two of which are integrated into the exhaust mainfold, making for a costy replacement.
as far as electrical gremlins, i've heard about them more for 1999 models, they had problems with the gauges not clipping into the wire harness very well, giving crazy gauge readings. i've never heard of this on 2000 models, but if this vehicle is an early 2000 model, it could have some of the 1999 parts bin leftovers.
 
Jackhill442 said:
I just talked my girlfriend into buying a 2000 sport with 122K on ebay for $3750. Is this a decent price?

Sounds too cheap to me so I wonder if it's a lemon that the guy is trying to get rod of. Unless you can see it close up, do a thorough inspection, and take it for a test drive, look elsewhere.
The '00 4.0 engines have been known to suffer from cracked cylinder heads so those of you who have this model, watch out for any unexplained loss of coolant.
Are the '00 models as reliable as the '91-'95 models? I'd say no judging from all the problems that I've seen reported. Warped rotors, cracked heads, bad fuel pumps, funky electrics, and the interior plastics are still cheap-looking. Good points? The distributorless ignition system (though coil packs have been known to fail), curved runner intake manifold, stiffened block with main bearing cap girdle, upgraded crankcase ventilation system, and OBD II engine management.
 
Dear BOATWRENCH... I also have a 2000 XJ and I have/had all the problems you have described. I just recently put a 3.5" Rubicon Express kit on and some LT265/75R16's and the ride was improved from stock. Everything but the power window thingy you had I've had. I still have the problem with the TC lever rattling, but it's not a big deal to me, I just pull up on the lever every once in a while at a red light and it stops rattling. HAPPY WHEELING!!!!
 
Boatwrench- What course of action did you take on the window regulator? Did you change out the whole switch, or do the mod behind the kick panel. I just reached a point where Im going to take action, as Im tired of having to open the passenger side window from my switchpanel.

As far as maintenance, my '01 (72,000 mi.) has been fairly well. Ive only had to change the clutch fan assembly which froze and started squealing, and the front speaker wiring went out, which just prompted me to get a good set of speakers and run a new set of wires. This spring I have to hit the dreaded evaporator, which started leaking last fall. My feelings are that these problems should not have occurred on a vehicle only 5 yrs. old, but I can see that love and loyalty to the Jeep makes one overlook a few faults.
 
Now I am worried. I figured they werent as good, these studpid car manufacturers always are cutting corners. If they could redisign the cylinder head to save $12 per car they will do it. Well, any other stories welcome, I would like to know what kind of problems to expect. Thanks very much!!
 
Bought mine new, 106k on the clock and besides regular maintenance, rotors/pads/shocks the only problems I had were

bad front pinion seal and a broken TC snap ring. So I have been MORE than happy with mine.

I could replace the front drivers side regulator. It does go up and down however when going up I have to kill the switch, it doesn't stop automatically. I am really stretching here as I don't consider any of these problems of any kind.
 
My 2000 has had a VERY VERY VERY hard 49,000 miles.
All of the original parts are still A-OK!
But, there arn't many original parts left on it.
The motor, trans, T-case, all of the electircal and creature comforts still work perfectly.
The crusie, A/C, power windows, ETC, are all still working fine.
 
I have had my 2000 for 18 months. Pushing 100,000 miles. Bought it with 42,000 miles on it.

First and formost, my favorite vehichle I have owned period. Better offroad than, than any other vehichle I have ever driven period.

However I have had to replace both front widow regulators (the first one broke in Houston during an ice storm with the window down).

Rear main seal
Oil filter housing seal
Stumbling idle after a 10 minute heat soak.
Transfer case chain got stretched and had to be replaced. (but I think the previos owner ran it in 4wd on the pavement).
Blower motor resisitor. (cant remember what that thing is really called).
I am planning on replaceing the cylinder head before summer.

I cant remember anything else going wrong. I take care of it, but I beat on it pretty hard.

It has been a good vehichle for me. I take cross country trips a lot and go on week long camp trips, roving from spot to spot usually on back roads and trails.
I would recommend it.

The price you bought it for seems cheap, or I got ripped off. But you bought it on ebay so you could have gotten one of those really good deals, that I hear about but never get.

If I were you I would be happy with my purchase and wheel the snot out of it
 
My 2000 is rolling 198,000, replaced the ac compressor at about 98,000....been through a set of rotors and new brakes, some new shocks and on my 3rd set of Bridgestone's.....nothing.....once again.....nothing wrong with it, just keep doing that $10 maintenance that seems pointless at the time....
Im offended that someone would elude to an older XJ being more reliable, if you want more factory horses and bettery styling jump at the chance to get a newer XJ...older is only better when your paying for it
Edit this one in, i replaced my passenger rear axle due to a curb....cant blame that on the jeep though
 
My 2000 Sport has 52,000 on it, 2 12"'s, 4 1/2 rough country front lift and hell creek suspensions 4 1/2 spring pack. Only problem has been a rock hitting condenser, changed it out in 45 minutes by myself. Other than the rough ride it has been awesome! Pulls a heavy pop-up camper in the fall and minor wheeling when the bug bites. Just used it too drag logs on Monday, and then pull them onto a trailer. Bout it with 24,000 on it july 04. Havent replaced anything else except tape deck and condesor and (suspension lift with pro comp AT's).

D.J.
 
Thanks alot guys! I wonder why the quality discrepancies exist? Some sound excellent, others money pits. Oh well, we'll see how it goes!
 
Jeeps are like fine wine, they get better with age :)

But seriously, I've owned enough Jeeps over the years and don't think there's anything factual to the "older XJ's are better" stories. Sure there are newer model nightmare stories, but there were plenty of older ones that experienced an early demise as well. Older XJ's that are still around were obviously the good ones, that's why there still around. And even the 2001's are now 5 years old. There all classics, 84-01, in my mind.

But I do think $3750.00 is too cheap for a 2000 model. Something's up there.
 
Did anyone notice it is a 2 Wheel Drive? :dunno: BINGO! that and the high mileage is probably why it's so cheap.
 
I don't think 2wd and 122k miles would explain the low price of $3750.00. Maybe it's had a really hard life and is beat up, or has a salvage title? The only difference between the 2wd & 4wd is the t-case & front diff. Some people actually prefer the 2wd's as they get better mpg and do better for what most people use them for. But resale value is a different subject...
 
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