Evaluate my lift package

[iispms]

I am about to spend ALOT of money on my stock 1990 XJ. I have compiled a list of things that I am ordering and would like your opinion and reccomendations.

Here goes:
RE 5.5" Drop Bracket Kit (4600 I think) with the following upgrades:
-OldMan Emu Shocks
-Adjustable CA's (upper and lower)
-JKS Discos
-RE Hack and Tap SYE
-RE Rear Drive Shaft
-Rear Adjustable Bumpstop

ARB Lockers Front and Back
Yukon 4.56 Gears (Whatever Randy sells)
8.8 Rear Axle with Disc Brakes (all new, already bought)
AR767 15x8 Wheels (used)
35" MTRs (used)

Am I missing anything? Have any input. Basically all this is going to run me about $4,800 for everything, so I want to make sure that I do it right the first time.

I was going to wait for the RE long arm kit, but no one seems to know when they will come out.

Any input is greatly appreciated!!

Chip

[Eagle]

For that kind of money I'd go with Clayton's long arm kit and skip the RE drop brackets and control arms.

[iispms]

I looked at the Clayton, but it was going to be about $500 more and I would have to piece all of it together.

I like the longarm kit because of the ride, but it looks like the drop bracket will accomplish the same thing, just with shorter arms. Granted, I won't get the crossbar with the Clayton.

Do you have either one?

[Eagle]

I have TRailmaster brackets at 4" of lift. As I commented on another thread, at that height they are rock magnets and I will probably remove them and go down an inch.

Several of the guys in the North Atlantic Chapter do have Clayton's kit, and they love it. Stop by the NAC forum and post an inquiry for Andy from PA or Magoo. Andy has had his longer. I think Lawn 'Cher has it, also, but not certain on that.

[iispms]

I was wondering about them being rock magnets.

You are going to keep the same setup, but go back to the original brackets?

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

Just relocate tej LCA's on the axle up flush with the bottom of the tube. You'll have angles real close to a long arm setup, and gain ground clearance, not lose it. I was seriously looking into the long arms, but before I could get it, I tore the LCA mount off the pass side axle, so I built new mounts and raised them. Glad I didn't spend the money. It takes speedbumps like a trophy truck.

Dan

[iispms]

Do you have a picture?

I was going to build my own Long Arm kit, but it was going to more then buying a kit from RE or Clayton.

[dennisuello]

Originally posted by iispms
I am about to spend ALOT of money on my stock 1990 XJ. I have compiled a list of things that I am ordering and would like your opinion and reccomendations.

Here goes:
RE 5.5" Drop Bracket Kit (4600 I think) with the following upgrades:
-OldMan Emu Shocks
-Adjustable CA's (upper and lower)
-JKS Discos
-RE Hack and Tap SYE
-RE Rear Drive Shaft
-Rear Adjustable Bumpstop

ARB Lockers Front and Back
Yukon 4.56 Gears (Whatever Randy sells)
8.8 Rear Axle with Disc Brakes (all new, already bought)
AR767 15x8 Wheels (used)
35" MTRs (used)

Am I missing anything? Have any input. Basically all this is going to run me about $4,800 for everything, so I want to make sure that I do it right the first time.

I was going to wait for the RE long arm kit, but no one seems to know when they will come out.

Any input is greatly appreciated!!

Chip

go with Clayton's long arm kit. you'll wish later you did.

don't get hack'n'tap SYE. i am in the process of switching mine over to AA SYE, since RE one is kinda loose and leaking ATF.

[LawlessXJ]

Looks like a good list.

I've got same lift w/out any of the upgrades you mention and am very pleased with the on-highway ride/handleing (and of course it wheels great.) I didn't get the adjustable CA's and don't really see a need for them. The only thing I added after installing lift was 6* shims for the 8.25... you may not need them with the 8.8 on a '90... easy to add later if you do though.

Have fun!

[iispms]

What shocks are you running?

I am thinking about the fixed CA's because one I do it, I won;t ever mess with it again....hopefully.

For $100 more I can do the AA SYE Kit and Tom Wood's shaft, so I will probably do that. I am leary about the hack n tap.

[RCP Phx]

Originally posted by iispms

I was going to build my own Long Arm kit, but it was going to more then buying a kit from RE or Clayton.

I dont know how you figure that.I just built mine for about 400$ using all chromoly!
http://members.aol.com/rpayne9421/images/mvc-007f.jpg

[LawlessXJ]

I'm running the standard Doetsch Tech 3000s which are fine. Stick with the OME's I'm sure they'll be that much better.

Just make sure you're not buying it all directly from RE 'cause you'll save a substantial amount off their MSRP by going through one of the little on-line drop-ship guys. My RE SYE and shaft was half the price of the HD kits (not counting the cost of my time installing it.) If you want to spend that extra money on a HD SYE and shaft, great they are the best way to go.

Good luck.

[iispms]

I have a stock Jeep, so I have to buy everything or make it, springs, shocks, Johnny Joints, etc.

[RCP Phx]

Im not sure where your going with that?Most all the kits out there come with stuff you dont need/want and lack things that you will need/want."Let your fingers do the walking",theres alot of good prices out there for all that stuff!

I highly recommend Dirk@DPG Offroad,his prices/customer service cant be beat!

[offroadman83]

I agree with RCP as Dirk is the man. Oh and he is where I got all of my junk;)

[Lucas]

Originally posted by Dan Turner
Just relocate tej LCA's on the axle up flush with the bottom of the tube. You'll have angles real close to a long arm setup, and gain ground clearance, not lose it. I was seriously looking into the long arms, but before I could get it, I tore the LCA mount off the pass side axle, so I built new mounts and raised them. Glad I didn't spend the money. It takes speedbumps like a trophy truck.

Dan


Do you have to change the mounts to the UCAs as well to keep the geometry the same? Pics would be great, and general specs about your lift.


As for the original question, It looks like a killer build but it seems a little pricey. I was shopping around for a similar setup a while ago (before I decided that I need to save $$$ for other hobbies) and Im pretty sure I could have come in under that cost (minus the 35s). Oh, you need extended brakelines.

[bradlyw]

y does everyone have to bash the RE kit? :rolleyes: as we know farmer matt isnt easy on his rig at all and he's been running the RE hack 'n' tap on it for years and hasnt had a problem. mine was leaking too...but i had forgotten to put RTV on the tailshaft b4 i put on the output flange...but its all good now, couldnt be happier.

Brad

and o ya, dirk is the man :D

Brad

[iispms]

I am not bashing the RE lift. I actually looked at buying the longarm kit first. Here is ohw I broke everything down.

Cost if I bought the RE drop bracket kit

RE 5.5" Drop bracket 6" Kit 1,533.00 (See below)
D30 Carrier Install Pack 90.22
4.56 gears for D30 143.00
4.56 ARB Locker for D30 572.00
4.56 gears for Ford 8.8 184.00
4.56 ARB for Ford 8.8 572.00
Mini Install Kit 33.00
ARB Compressor Kit 190.00
Wheels - 15x8 AR767 125.00
35" Goodyear MTR's 500.00 (Used)
New Ford 8.8 Axle 500.00 (Used - Kinda)
AA SYE Kit 474.05
Tom Woods Drive Shaft incl.
297x jointed shafts 40.00
JKS Disco's incl.
Total 4,956

Drop Bracket Kit:
6" Drop Bracket Kit 1,143.00
Upper and lower CA - Fixed -
support braces -
front coils -
Rear shackles -
extended brake lines -
Upgrade to JKS swaybar disco 80.00
Upgrade Shocks - Oldman Emu long travels 210.00
RE Extreme Duty adjustable trackbar -
Bumpstop - Front -
Rear Adjustable Bumpstop
Leaf springs -
Upgrade to adjustable Control arms 100.00

If I did it myself:
Johnny Joints 92.52
ACME Nut and Thread Rod 65.31
Stock Rubber Bushings -
2" OD 1/4" DOM tubing 30.00
2.5" OD 1/4" DOM Tubing 10.00
1.25"x5 ACME thread coupling 56.00
1/4" Plate 10.00
5" x 3" - 5/16" angle 10.00
Upper Control Arms 199.95
Adjustable tracbar 110.00
5.5" RE Front Coils 200.00
Shocks - DT3000 200.00
Leaf Springs for Rear 135.00
Bumpstop Kit - Front 27.95
JKS Disco's 118.95
Total 1,265.68

So, buying the kit will cost about $300 or so more. I figure it will take me a while to build the kit. I am installing all of this myself, so there is not a labor charge.

I don't know if I should say who I got pricing from, but I think I am correct in saying that I talked to the man.

Chip

[iispms]

And if I bought the Clayton:
Clayton 750
Shocks 210
JKS 118
brakelines 50
Adjustable Tracbar 110
Rear springs 135
Front Coils 200
total 1573

[Bent]

"Hack" is such an ugly word. If It were my money, I would (and did) go with the HD SYE. IMO

Dan, I wish I had taken a look at that LCA set up a couple weeks ago.

[iispms]

I thought the same thing. I actually just found a 231 tcase to replace the 242. I think I like the sound of AA instead of Hack.....

[ChuckD]

Originally posted by iispms
And if I bought the Clayton:
Clayton 750
Shocks 210
JKS 118
brakelines 50
Adjustable Tracbar 110
Rear springs 135
Front Coils 200
total 1573

Did you double the rear springs, that price is for each, not pair.

[iispms]

I thought that was for both, but now that I look at it does look cheap.

[RCP Phx]

You keep comparing "apples" to "oranges".The long arm kit is another 500$ over the drop kit.Some of your prices are pretty extreme also, but they seemed to balance out with the forgotten/under-priced items.The real difference is what you end up with in the end!

[ChuckD]

I have the RE drop Brackets, I don't regret the, but put your money into the Claytons. Build up your rear springs with add-a-leaf or Dakota/Chevy S10 leaves. Forget the JKS Quick Disconnects and build up disconnects for $20. Right there that should help bring down the cost.

[awr94903]

Dan Turner: How much lift are you running?

[Eagle]

Originally posted by iispms
And if I bought the Clayton:
Clayton 750
Shocks 210
JKS 118
brakelines 50
Adjustable Tracbar 110
Rear springs 135
Front Coils 200
total 1573

I'm failing to see your point with this list. It includes an adjustable track bar (which you need at that height) that I didn't see in your other lists. You need the longer brake lines regardless of what kind of lift you get, the front coils will be the same with Clayton's kit or RE's, obviously the rear springs don't care whose long arms you put on the front.

IMHO Clayton's kit is the way to go, but it looks to me like your pricing study is comparing apples to pomegranates.

[kcb]

hey the A/A SYE is good i have one on my 88 4 door and have had no problems i am running the 8 inch rusty's long arm and have had no problems with bind at all.

[LawlessXJ]

The RE 5.5 extreme duty kit (if that's what he's referring to) comes with the adjustable trackbar and hd bracket, amongst other things like RE disco's, brake lines, t-case drop, etc...

...and a person should be able to pick that kit up for... say, less than $1000 and a tad more than $950... ;) and if you're not using the RE discos or t-case drop it should be another $100 or so south of that...

Good luck... from all the above advice, you're gonna need it! :confused:

[2xtreme]

Just to throw a wrench in to everything, I believe that you should go with the 4.88's and not the 4.56's.

As side notes:
I would go BFG's instead of Goodyears.
I would go HD instead of Hack'n'tap.
I would build my own swaybar discos.
I would build a cross over steering set up.
I would use over axle track bar.

Michael

[iispms]

Originally posted by Eagle
I'm failing to see your point with this list. It includes an adjustable track bar (which you need at that height) that I didn't see in your other lists.

It is included in the RE kit

[i]You need the longer brake lines regardless of what kind of lift you get, the front coils will be the same with Clayton's kit or RE's, obviously the rear springs don't care whose long arms you put on the front.[/B]

It is included in the RE Kit

[i]IMHO Clayton's kit is the way to go, but it looks to me like your pricing study is comparing apples to pomegranates. [/B]

Why do you guys keeping saying this? I looked at doing it three ways.

First, I wanted to build my own long arm kit. That is where this came from:
Johnny Joints 92.52
ACME Nut and Thread Rod 65.31
Stock Rubber Bushings -
2" OD 1/4" DOM tubing 30.00
2.5" OD 1/4" DOM Tubing 10.00
1.25"x5 ACME thread coupling 56.00
1/4" Plate 10.00
5" x 3" - 5/16" angle 10.00
Upper Control Arms 199.95
Adjustable tracbar 110.00
5.5" RE Front Coils 200.00
Shocks - DT3000 200.00
Leaf Springs for Rear 260.00
Bumpstop Kit - Front 27.95
JKS Disco's 118.95
Total 1,390.68
This was done by reading this: http://www.xjworld.4wdriver.com/longarm.htm

Second, I wanted to go with the RE Long Arm Kit that I have been hearing about, but it is not out yet and I have not been able to find out when it is going to be. From what I hear, they have been saying "next month" since April. From what I have researched, this kit was going to be about $1,600. It included everything that I had in the homemade kit for about $2-300 more. I think the difference is worth what it would save me in time and headaches if I screwed up. To me, that is apples to apples.

Third, I looked at the RE 5.5 drop bracket kit. The difference with this kit is that the arms are shorter, upper control arms stay in the original spot, and I don't believe they have Johnny Joints. However, with the drop kit, the angles of the lower control arms are just about the same angle to the ground as the long arms, so the ride on the road should be about equal. I would imagine that flex could be inferior to long arm because of the shorter arms. This kit was recommended by Dirk.

As for the SYE kit, I would rather the AA then the hack n tap. I am do not want to do a t-case drop.

The thing that I am keeping in mind when I do this, is in a couple of years, I will probably go back with a TJ. Almost all of this stuff I am using on the XJ will be removed and installed on it. Maybe even the rear leaf springs will go on it as well....who knows.

I really appreciate your comments.

[iispms]

Originally posted by 2xtreme

I would build a cross over steering set up.


Michael

what is this?

[Eagle]

Originally posted by iispms
The thing that I am keeping in mind when I do this, is in a couple of years, I will probably go back with a TJ. Almost all of this stuff I am using on the XJ will be removed and installed on it. Maybe even the rear leaf springs will go on it as well....who knows.

Well, there was no mention of this previously. As I've commented before, it's awfully difficult to give advice when you don't know the whole story.

Clayton's kit is a weld-on installation, so you're not going to transfer that to a TJ. End of discussion.

However ... you're going to convert a TJ to a leaf spring rear suspension?

[iispms]

I am not really looking into moving the longarm over to the TJ. I was thinking about doing the leaf springs in the back of a TJ though. Why? I have no idea, but it would be different.

The homemade kit would be a weld on as well, so I know that would not transfer.

Chances are, when I do the TJ (if I do) i will go with a RE long arm and use the rear axle and lockers. I would have to put TJ gears on the front locker though.

[poppabear]

Attention:


The OME shocks are too short for 5.5"+ of lift. They will limite the travel of the suspension by about 1.5-2"...

for the same price get the Bilstein 5100's in the appropriate size.

[LawlessXJ]

One last comment and I'll shut-up....

On RE 5.5 kit both the upper control arms as well as the lower arms are relocated to a lower position by the drop brackets.

With either the RE SYE or any of the HD SYE kits you eliminate the need for a t-case drop.

[XJJack]

You have a good list, it is about the same as mine, but I used Tomkin springs and acos for the front. What is this adustable rear bump you mentioned?

[crazy4mopar]

Don't forget to get a CV driveline.

[dave]

i'm lifted a little more than you are going.. here just my dumb $.02

1. the ome shocks will limit you.. take a look at bilstein 5150s i love them, i use them.. nuff said.

2. i am not a fan of RE rear springs.. 2 years and sagged 2.5 inches.. think about big off road springs, alcan springs or national springs.

3. I would seriously seriously recommend going long arm. not only would i never go back to RE short arms and brackets.. i'd rather let my jeep sit than drive it with those again.. i have a home brew setup and i look forward to reworking it to see what works best .. :: shrug:: go with the HD SYE.. its actually much stronger.. i'd rather overbuild and spend more than break and spend twice as much. factor in some wheel spacers for that 8.8 to bring it out a little bit.. and thats all i can think of right now.

[Crunch]

Forget about using rear bumpstops, they are a waste.

Maybe you could build a 1/4 eliptic for your future TJ using those rear springs;)

If you are curious about the RE long arm kit, just wait a llittle longer. Hell, with the amount of $$ you are spending, why not see what all your options are.

I have the Clayton kit on mine and love it, but if you are planning on doing the TJ later, I would want the kit that is removable. Also, I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, but with Clayton's kit and Rusty's 9 way adjustable shocks, I threw away the swaybar. On road, I stiffen up the shocks and body roll is very minimal. (flame away)

Personally, I believe that if you start wheelin' the XJ, you'll change your mind about the TJ swap:D

One last thing, I don't remember you saying anything about skidplates. If you are going to wheel this thing, you need to figure that into the prices.

HTH,
Crunch

[PhatXJ]

The lift kit and stuff sounds like too much trouble to me, I would just lower it.

:anon:

ps, do 4.88's.

[Crunch]

Oh yeah, If you are going 35s or even 33s, go with 4.88s.

And 5.5" is not much lift for 35s, plan on lots of fender trimming.

If this is your first offroad vehicle,please buy the 35s if you are getting a good deal, you can sell MT/Rs anywhere and get a set of 33s to learn to wheel. you'll be surprised where they will take you.

Crunch

[basalt51]

Originally posted by dave


not only would i never go back to RE short arms and brackets.. i'd rather let my jeep sit than drive it with those again

Seriously!?!

Love mine.

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

I have the RE 3.5 superflex kit with a Budget Boost on top of that. With TJ flares and a decent amount of trimming, 35s work well.I'm not nearly as tall as a lot of the other guys, so it doesn't feel nearly as tippy. I like that, way stable.

When I relocated the LCA mounts, I originally intended to do the uppers as well. After driving with the uppers in the stock location, it drives and handles fine, so I didn't bother. One thing it does though is pushes the front axle about an inch or so forward, so I had to redo the upper track bar mount because it was hitting on my diff cover. My steering linkage is of the home brew variety anyway, so it was no big deal. The best part of this mod is it cost me nothing.

The angles on my LCAs are the same as the XJ next to mine inthe garage that has the clayton arms and about 8 inches of lift.

It rides very smooth now. It used to feel like the front end was stiffer than the rear, but now it's the other way around.

Dan

[ChuckD]

Originally posted by Dan Turner

When I relocated the LCA mounts, I originally intended to do the uppers as well. After driving with the uppers in the stock location, it drives and handles fine, so I didn't bother. One thing it does though is pushes the front axle about an inch or so forward, so I had to redo the upper track bar mount because it was hitting on my diff cover. My steering linkage is of the home brew variety anyway, so it was no big deal. The best part of this mod is it cost me nothing.
Dan

Did you post any pics, I have to do the same thing, Here is my bracket so far.

http://home.comcast.net/~cdutke/lcamounts/DSCF0081.JPG

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

I'll see if I can't get some pics. My photo hosting account is over full. I'll have to go through and delete pics first.

Dan

[fire325]

Rear brake hose...'96 Dakota,total length 22" perfect fit with no modifications.I paid $30 for it.Little expensive but will work if you ever decide to go higher.My .02 NAXJA member#579.

[Flowers]

SPOBI ALERT!

There are so many B.S. responses to this kind gentleman's question I think I'll just hurl!!!!!!!!!



Hung up in the rocks with the lowering brackets? I guess the long arms don't.

RE SYE junk? Tell me why.

Comparing Apples to oranges or pomegranates? Of course he is. And he knows that. He's comparing prices of 2 different suspensions. And I believe he's looking at how light his wallet is going to get.


Chep,

Here's my evalutation: I think you have a kick ass plan. Talk to people with first hand experience running 4:88's and consider that ratio over the 4:56's. I'm not familiar with running an OME shock at that lift height. Just make sure they are in the 28-29" extended length range. I used to say a 27" was long enough for the 5-6" lift, but that was before the lowering brackets.

Flowers

[iispms]

Flowers....thanks for your response!

I ran the XJ stock today on 235/75R15....talk about fun!!

But, in the mean time, i am going to look at other tires then the MTRs. I ran them on my TJ, but never got them in the mud. They didn't seem to want to grab on the jeeps I saw. I heard that ProComp just came out with a new mud tire. Don't know how much about them, but I am going to check it out.

[ChuckD]

MTR's don't grab? I hope you talking about mud, because rocks and snow they do very well.

[ChEwBaCcA]

Im running the RE brackets w/ ZJ coils and a supa dupa secret Rustys rear spring pack which I bought from Flowers and my rig rides great.

Rock magnets? Sure maybe a lil, but I did everything and then some in Moab last year, and my stuff worked out great. You can slam the RE drops on rocks all day long and no problems.... the long arm guys were unloading too much on the vert angle stuff, ever wonder why all of them are running for limiting straps??!!

Id put the RE drops and 6" of lift next to any long arm rig and run circles around it. The long arms may be a lil better on the street...but I see no advantage on trail. Not to mention my drops allow the rig to drive on road like a 2" lifted rig .... I run my rig up to 90mphs on the Ike in/out of Chicago w/ no issue.... of course only when i have lots of room to stop and very light traffic ;-)

Im also runnin 4.56 on 33" tires which everyone said was a no-no....hell i wouldnt do it any other way. I dont runn out of pull till i hit close to 95MPH and w/ the wind drag the rig wont do more than that anyhow.

So i HAVE DONE IT and it works very well....... Everyone else on here talking shizzle who aint got either, Stop talking about shizzle you aint got! Damn

I also run MT Baja Claws (radials) which everyone said was a junk overpriced tire...... seemed to out grab every set of MTRs I saw in Moab and impressed everyone Ive wheeled with. Yet I hear people who have NEVER owned a set saying they are too stiff, too soft, no sidewall deflection, not a true size, 2" smaller than the size stamped on the tire.....again all BS from folks that dont know jack and have never had em.

Peace
Chewy

[RCP Phx]

Originally posted by ChEwBaCcA
. the long arm guys were unloading too much on the vert angle stuff, ever wonder why all of them are running for limiting straps??!!

Yeah but its sure is alot easier/nicer to have to limit travel than to build it!I wouldnt trade my set-up for anything else.The guys here are all drooling now about how well it flexes!And the ride on washboard roads is alot better also(got too love that).

[dave]

i've had the drop brackets on mine.. etc etc me personally didnt like em... now i have a custom set of long arms on it and i love them... more flex = more gooder.. if it were me and you have another vehicle to drive while this build-up takes place.. get your spring and arms in ... put tires on it.. leave the swaybars disconnected and measure the distance between the shock mounts extended and compressed... get your travel and lengths and call a knowledgable 4wd shop give them the measurements and see what shocks come in that size .. then make your choise from there... i love bilstein's some people love rancho.. ome etc etc. keep in mind to add some extra length for BPEs .

my opinions are based on my experience.. my opinions are only right in my case.. everyone and everyone's jeep is different.. half the fun is building it up and figuring out what works best for you .. good luck :D

[iispms]

I ran 33 MTR's on my TJ and loved them on the rocks. I never really got into the mud with it. Yesterday, the MTR's were having trouble in the muddy parts. This is a third vehicle, so I can do pretty much what I want to it without putting me in a bind.

As for the three setups I am looking at for the lift, I am still haven't figured it out. I have a month or so before I have to make it. Keep the comments coming!!

Anyone run the SSRs?

[ChuckD]

Thanks, I feel the same about the MTR's, I just wanted to get a more specific comment. I don't do mud, and the one major expierence I had the mud, was some really deep and they did not clean very well. Where I wheel, mud usually is not a big deal.

[BrokenXJ]

Save yourself some money on the rear locker, and just get a Lock-Right for the rear at $250. I have an 8.8 with a lock-right and it is taking a beating, with no problems. All of my problems are every where else, maybe I should have gotten the rest of the Ford :)

[dave]

i would call RE now.. i heard they finally released the kit.. might not be posted and retailers might not know yet.. but it sure might be available..

[DeadEyeJ]

I am continually amazed at how much focus the front suspension gets on a lifted XJ. IMHO the front is the part that you should just lift and forget. Of course, make sure nothing binds at lift, but the flex is there right out of the box.

The REAR of the XJ is what really needs some attention. Everybody throws some lift leaves at the rear and calls it done. WHY?!?! The XJ's rear flex flat sucks!

If you want my opinion, which you may well not, keep the front cheap and simple. Then throw on a 1/4 elliptic or coil rear setup. This will offer some balance to your flex instead of focusing all of it in the front.

Whoopty freakin doo if your front will droop 4" more with a long arm setup. Wouldn't it be better if the rear would droop 6-8" better instead for the same money/effort? RockKrawler sells a rear coilover setup with Fox spring/shocks. I dunno how much, but something similar could be homemade.

My plan is to use the stock front coils and stock track bar/mount for the rear of my XJ when the Drop Bracket 5.5" lift goes on the front with the STOCK control arms. Just fab up a crossmember and some wristed radius arms for the rear, weld up the track bar, toss on the coils and away you go! Balanced flex and I would bet more total articulation than the long arm guys.

[Flowers]

Originally posted by RCP Phx
Yeah but its sure is alot easier/nicer to have to limit travel than to build it!

That makes no sense.


I wouldnt trade my set-up for anything else.The guys here are all drooling now about how well it flexes!And the ride on washboard roads is alot better also(got too love that).

I'm not an engineer, maybe you are could you please explain how long arms allow more flex than drop brackets.


Thank You,

Flowers

[REDXJ4FUN]

One of the biggest advantages of long arms is the amount of drop you can get compared to drop brackets. but at what point is it to the point of being useless. I have the RK 6in springs and shocks and my 2 limiting areas in the front for drop are my RE brake lines and my shocks. the shocks bottom out right before the lines get tight. it about as much drop as i want. My biggets problem is that it isn't matched well with my rear setup right now. I think every one is making to damn much of flex and frogetting what is important. and that is haveing a setupthat works well. I whel with guys who have both set ups and one who took off his drop brakets and put on a long arm set up Did he knowtice much diffrent? he didn't say there was a wholle lot except for what i knowticed aswell that the long arms make you transfer power to the rear end more and actuale to the rear and to the pasenger side witch is real messing up the leafs out back. his plan works so if thats what he want go for it but i'd go with the 4.88s and get some kind of traction bar and the HD SYE kit.

[RCP Phx]

Originally posted by Flowers
I'm not an engineer, maybe you are could you please explain how long arms allow more flex than drop brackets.


Thank You,

Flowers

In my case it eliminated all the binding issues with the springs,shocks,trackbar,bushings,and driveshaft!

[iispms]

Well, I appreciate all your input. I ordered everything today, so I have a lot of work to do over the next month or so. I HIGHLY recomend Dirk at DPG. He gave me ALOT of input and I ordered almost all of my stuff through him even though I would have gotten the same pricing through the direct dealers. I was going to order the new RE long arm kit, but I could not get a confirmation that I would have it at the beginning of September, so I backed out. Plus, I was going to be number 3rd lift, so I imagine the bugs are not going ot be worked out yet.

With that being said, this was the final verdict:
5.5" RE Extreme drop bracket kit
OME shocks (ZJ's for the rear)
AA SYE and Tom Woods driveshaft
JKS discos
ARBs front and back
4.88 Gears
35" MTRs on 8.5" wide aluminum rims (used)
8.8 Rear axle with Disc brakes (new)

I am sure I have missed something.....it is late.

Still needing:
Skid Plates
TJ D30 axle shafts
Fender Flares
LOTS of fender trimming
LOTS of work!!!!!!

Again, I REALLY appreciate the input I got from you guys. Hope to see you in Tellico in October for the Maiden Voyage!

Chip