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What's the best method to remove the LCA mounts?

tompatjr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hayneville,AL
Heres what I got...

I have a torch, two die grinders (strait and 90*), and a 4.5" angle grinder and I forgot a air chisle too. I must admit I'm a novice with a torch. So I would try and use it as a last resort.

I have a freind who has the skill to cleanly torch them off, but I would rather save a favor.

I'd like to have it end up being that you never knew they where there. I plan to grind down the remaining material and then use a flapper disc to finish.
 
I did mine with a sawzall and am very pleased with the results.

If I had a spot weld drill I would have drilled out the welds before I would torch it off.
 
motorman said:
I did mine with a sawzall and am very pleased with the results.

If I had a spot weld drill I would have drilled out the welds before I would torch it off.


I forgot I got a POS sawzall, Harbor Freight for $19.00. Maybe it'll last long enough to remove them!

Thanks
 
Took them off the MJ, just about drove me insane. I think the torch would be useless for this job. I had quite a bit more to remove on the MJ. But i would say angle grinder, and a short pry bar. Just disect. I know my second side took about 1/3 the time and effort.

Gene MJ
 
tompatjr said:
I forgot I got a POS sawzall, Harbor Freight for $19.00. Maybe it'll last long enough to remove them!

Thanks
That and the $20 in blades, I went through quite a few blades doing mine but it turned out pretty nice with the sawzall.
 
sawzall here, just just the ears off, left teh rest on the "frame" no interference issuses.
 
At work I use a Cut-off wheel with a 3/8" grinding wheel(4.5" grinder would also work) and grind the spot weld and area around it down till the metal around the spot weld is purple with the spot weld a lighter color in the middle. Then do all the rest of the spot welds then tap the lca mount off. The metal around the spot welds should be weak enough that all you need is a LIGHT tap.

Hope that helps
 
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