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Anyone in the Northeast repaired floorpans in an XJ?

ChaoticBaztard

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Scranton
Im just curious I am getting new floorpans from shermanparts.com and I know how to turn a wrench but when it comes to bodywork and welding I suck..I am willing to pay anyone who has the time and possible experience with this.My passenger side is just about gone.The frame is good through the whole truck.But the floors need to be taken out and new ones installed.Its beyond patching.If anyone is interested in this job,I pay cash and I dont really mind if its tied up awhile.I have another vehicle.I live near Scranton PA but i will drive it to where you live if your the guy.email me at [email protected] or PM me here.Inspection runs out in may so as long as its done before may 30th I will be happy.Thanks!Or if you cant do it any phone numbers for someone reasonable and even more important knowlegable will help.
 
Not relevant to your inquiry but I just replaced both sides on my XJ. I used 18 gauge flat steel. Shaped the panels in a vice and cut to fit with a hand grinder with a cutting blade. Mig welded everything back into place and sealed the seams with a seam sealer then undercaoted it. It took a couple of days to do but I am quite busy with work. It was worth every minute.
 
Nice,A couple people have looked and said its not worth it..I mean if its going to be done right replace the entire floor right?The frame is good and I have almost 6" lift so I wanna restore it.Thanks for your input
 
Was the original floor 18 gauge steel? I can only find 22 gauge or 16 gauge to do my patches, unless I want to spend $100 on a 4'X8' sheet of 20 gauge or 18 gauge. I'm going to practice with 22 guage, and if I'm confident that I can lay down the bead without burning up the metal, I'm going to use that. All but one of my holes are fairly small, so I think I should be fine.

I've removed the interior on my vehicle and I'm about to start cutting out the rust, the OEM floorpan doen't "LOOK" to be even 22 gauge, it looks even "THINNER". It might just be the rusty edges are thinned down by the rust.

I'm going to borrow a friends MIG Welder and attempt the job myself after some practice.

Choatic you may want to consider borrowing/purchasing a MIG Welder and attempting the job yourself. Welding is not that difficult, you just have to have the tools and some practice to do "ADEQAUTE WELDS".

Another option to consider, do all the work except welding, have it all fitted and prepped, ready to weld up, then barter with a local weld shop to do just the welding. Beleive me, if they see a perfectly prepped weld job, where they just have pick up the welder and start running beads, they'll be willing to come down in price a lot. Most of the work is prepping the metal to weld, especially when replacing panels in cars.

To pull the old pan, you'll probably need to purchase some tools, an air compressor and some air tools (which no one every regrets buying an air compressor, unlees they buy one thats too small, and air tools, you'll use them again and again).
 
The trick to welding in sheet metal is to tack weld it in place at regular intervals and then go back and fill in the voids. You do not have to weld the entire seam. If you do weld the entire seam I would do it in short bursts. This will keep the weld from blowing thru the metal. I did not weld the entire seam on mine. I also had to pass a safety inspection right after I was done and had no problems. Just make sure you seal your joints with a sealant to keep moisture from getting thru and you'll do fine. Good luck!
 
I plan on doing the same thing to mine this summer. I'm still debating whether or not to get a complete floor pan or just shape some metal. How much was the pan?
 
I have a 97 that I'm parting out and if you want some floor , I can cut you whatever you want. I did cut the firewall out from the front door pillar forward so where the floor pan goes up to the firewall is gone but other than that it's all available. [email protected]
 
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