New cam solved oiling problem, BUT barely runs!

Yes, I installed my new Mopar performance camshaft and lifter (# 4529228 - .430 lift) set I won on Ebay. It did solve my previous problem of oil only getting up to 2 valves. BUT it barely runs! - backfires thru tb and exaust, rough idle. I installed a new Cloyes 3 pc timing set at the same time but did not degree the cam (garbage man came this morning so I couldn't install old timing set again). I installed a new CPS, because it was cheap $23. NO effect. I Indexed the distributor and advanced and retarded it too many times to count. At least the valves are getting oil! I missed work today and will tomorrow (total time missed now 6 days in 5 weeks) as I need my HEEP for work 80-100 mi a day.

sounds like the distributor needs to be indexed properly, depending on the year i would do a search for the correct procedure

89 cherokee 4.0 RENIX

there are several posts on this site that can tell you how to index the distributor correcty. i would check that first.

yeah but no help

Index the distributor

If it is off just one tooth, life is not good. There have been posts describing the effect of one-ahead and one-behind, which are different. Here's a tech article on reindexing the distributor:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Well, indexing the distributor is important, but let's get back to basics. You replaced the camshaft. How certain are you that you got the cam oriented (timed) correctly? Especially using the Cloyes 3-position timing set, it's very possible that your cam is off by one link. If so, indexing the distributor will never help.

This timing set has only one keyway. Also there are 15 pins between timing marks per chiltons manual.

This link states: You should not need to cut the "ears" to correctly position the distributor unless you've installed an aftermarket camshaft. What? Anymore info would be great as cam installation instructions with the kit were for v6 and slant 6.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Re: Index the distributor

4xBob said:

If it is off just one tooth, life is not good. There have been posts describing the effect of one-ahead and one-behind, which are different. Here's a tech article on reindexing the distributor:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

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x3 gazillion

Well I have a basically stock Renix with the Crane 753905 cam in it, and I didn't touch the distributor. It runs fine, but.......did you correctly set the lifter preload? If you gave too much, its always a possibility that you have eaten a cam lobe or two, causing those same problems.(Don't ask how I know...)

If it was mine, I'd do a quick compression test. This will tell you if the valves are close. Then I'd use the compression tester to get number one on the compression stroke. Then a slightly curved piece of wire stuck down the spark plug hole, to make sure it is absolutely at the top and the timing marks are aligned (always with the last movement of the crank shaft clockwise facing the front of the motor to take the slack off the chain). Then look at the number 1 valve rockers and see if they are even (use a ruler) and can be wiggled to the side a bit (there is little or no pressure on them in the rest position at TDC).
Use an old distributor cap, cut a window so you can see the number one lug inside the cap. Cut the ears off the bottom of the distributor and twist it until the rotor is around .020 (close enough) after the number one lug, inside the distributor cap.
I wouldn't be too concenred about getting things exact, just close.
Then fire her up and see what happens.
At the top of the compression stroke (TDC 1) there shouldn't be much, if any pressure on the num 1 rocker arms and they should be in the rest position. If the rockers aren't equal and in the rest position at TDC (num 1), your cam timing is off significantly.
Crane makes a nice little pamphlet for installing timing chains, cams and degreeing.
It's always a good idea to turn a motor over a couple of revolutions by hand, before even trying the starter after a cam change. Who really knows for sure if the cam is ground properly and the timing is even close?

Reinstalled old cam, same thing still pops, checked timing set with another new one, exactly the same, visually checked new vs old cam all lobes look to be correctly spaced. I haven't replaced valve cover so I can see valves move, checked tdc vs timing chain marks, reindexed dist, cut ears off dist for adjusting.

You sure you're timing is 180 degrees off?

karter74 said:

You sure you're timing is 180 degrees off?

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It won't run THAT far off at all.

AZ Jeff said:

It won't run THAT far off at all.

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Like heck it won't.

My brother had a mid 70's Monza with a Chevy 140 4 banger. He popped the timing belt, and replaced it himself. He managed to get it timed exactly 180 degrees off, and it ran like hell. Once a neighbor pointed out his error, it ran pretty well. But it did run 180 degrees off.

ChiXJeff said:

Like heck it won't.

My brother had a mid 70's Monza with a Chevy 140 4 banger. He popped the timing belt, and replaced it himself. He managed to get it timed exactly 180 degrees off, and it ran like hell. Once a neighbor pointed out his error, it ran pretty well. But it did run 180 degrees off.

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That was a FOUR cylinder. There are only two phases to the crank on a four. A SIX would be different, and there are 3 phases for that crank. The probablility that a six that's 180 degrees out of phase would run is much lower, and I would be it zero.