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Help! Chrysler 8.25 Powertrax No-slip, C-Clip question

J

jdbwrx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Avon, CO
OK, so I have been trying to get this f*in' c-clip out of my Powertrax No-slip for 3 hours with no luck (passenger side). I have tried a boat load of brake cleaner and WD-40, making a thin set of pliers to grab it, moving the axle around, and a million other things. It spins, but just won't come out.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, are the Chrysler 8.25 c-clips easy to come by? I searched online and couldn't find a replacement part anywhere. I was going to use some creative cutting to get it out, but figured I better make sure I can get a replacement part first.

Why didn't the braniacs at Richmond put a hole on the other side to push it out?
 
To get mine out I moved the axleshaft in and out as fast as possible and sprayed pb blaster in the slot. You might also want to try getting a piece of wire around to pull it out.
 
C-clip Follow Up

Since I rarely see concluding follow ups for problem posts on the board, I figured I would update in case any one else ever has this problem.

To make a long story short, when I had my new gears installed, the guys busted the locker when reassembling it(the reason I had to take it apart in the first place). It looks as though the big center pin was forced back in which resulted in the tab on both spacers getting broken. This also resulted in a crack that dimpled into the slot for the c-clip. This explains why the C-clip would not just drop out.

I ended up having to cut the c-clip to get it out. This was a big PITA! It took a combination of drilling and some Tungsten Carbide dremel cutting bits to get it out. As soon as the C-clip was in two pieces it fell out. Plus, the 8.25 C-clips are a dealer part only, so I had to wait for the replacement.

I will post pics when I get a chance. Just in case anyone else runs into this, I sympathize with you!
 
Greenlantern said:
man that sucks, thanks for the tips. I will be installing a no slip in mine soon, so this helps
Click to expand...
Be aware that you MAY have to grind your c-clips a bit to make them fit properly in the 8.25 No-Slip. This MIGHT apply only when installing the Trac-Loc carrier version.

I had to grind mine down to fit into the slot and not bind up. And there are others who also had to grind the c-clips. And there is no mention of this in the instructions.
 
Frank Z said:
Follow the instructions to the letter and the install is a breeze. Skip one part and you'll be ordering new active spacers...don't ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

I won't ask. :D I installed it the first time around, and everything worked great. That was last fall. After I picked it up a few weeks ago, I noticed that the driver's side wasn't unlocking. I called Richmond to ask them what was up with that, and they said it was probabaly one of the spacers. Two morals to the story:
1) Don't force the center pin
2) Learn to do things myself...
 
Carnage Pics

Here's a few pics of what happened. The broken tab is in the yellow circle. The red arrow points to where then pin was forced through and broke the area. As you can see, it is raised a bit. That was enough that the clip wouldn't drop out. Also a pic of the ravaged c-clip. This is the passenger side, and the the driver's side looks very similar.

www.lgmmodel.com/jason/powertrax/slottedside.jpg
www.lgmmodel.com/jason/powertrax/cclip.jpg
 
Last edited:
I broke one of the tabs installing mine too, but it didn't cause nearly that much damage, probably because I realized I broke it before finishing, and never drove on it. In that yellow circle though, there isn;t supposed to be a tab, that is where the tab of the spacer is supposed to sit, it looks a little mangled, yes. I have no idea how the rest of the thing got mashed, maybe the piece that broke off got wedged in there somehow when driving?
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/dresnicow/P1000741.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/dresnicow/P1000740.jpg
 
Frank Z said:
Thats what happened to mine. A little too much pressure when the notches aren't aligned properly and snap goes the paddle.

FWIW, I got a replacement through 4Wheel Parts (yeah, I know) for just under $40.
Click to expand...

Hey, at least they had it, I ordered it through Randy's Ring and Pinion, cost $37 plus shipping, and it took 3 weeks and several incorrect parts arriving at my doorstep to get it right.
 
I had a shop install mine and it was "faulty"...i got one wheel drive on the right side no matter what the conditions were...barely made it home one day when i locked up and had my carrier sounded like it exploded...spent two weeks tryin to get the c-clip out, some hooked picks were a plus in my situation and eventually having someone move the axle and me poke at it, it finally came out. along with both broken teeth of those active spacers or whatever. makes me wonder if it was "faulty".
 
I will try and sum up this thread mixed with my exp. with the no slip.
#1 its a very respectable locker, but its very tempermental!
#2 if you don't install it exactly right then your gonna be buying parts.
#3 Randy's no longer sells the noslips because to many dipshist were screwing up the install and trying to warranty the unit.
#4 the crosspin springs can go bad on you. I suggest rebuilding the locker with new springs about once a year.
#5 is for all lockers. a bend housing or axle tube can and will kill your lockers

who was the dipshist at Randy's. so that I can tease them...
yes Randy's sends you straight back to richmond gear for replacment active spacers.
 
You also need to check the "fit" of the C-clips while the locker is still out.
 
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