aw4 trans problem!

[badbowtie87]

I just bought a 96 jeep cherokee country. Its the first jeep ive ever owned so i dont know much about them. The transmission has a weird problem. When you put it in drive and try to take off it slips or actually just feels like it is in third gear trying to take off. If you put it in first gear and manually shifts great with the exception that it only stays in 2nd gear for a split second before it shifts to 3rd on its own. When you come to a stop it does it all over again. It also will not downshift when you step on it and the kickdown isnt broken. Im sure the tranny is not in good shape because the tranny fluid is burntand it has 140K on it but like i said it shifts great when you manually shift it. Any ideas on where to start? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Yucca-Man]

Im sure the tranny is not in good shape because the tranny fluid is burntand it has 140K on itDrain it and refill with non-synthetic Dexron-III. Do that again in a week or two to get more of the old stuff mixed out.

[langer1]

I just bought a 96 jeep cherokee country. Its the first jeep ive ever owned so i dont know much about them. The transmission has a weird problem. When you put it in drive and try to take off it slips or actually just feels like it is in third gear trying to take off. If you put it in first gear and manually shifts great with the exception that it only stays in 2nd gear for a split second before it shifts to 3rd on its own. When you come to a stop it does it all over again. It also will not downshift when you step on it and the kickdown isnt broken. Im sure the tranny is not in good shape because the tranny fluid is burntand it has 140K on it but like i said it shifts great when you manually shift it. Any ideas on where to start? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Also pull the codes with a scanner,that transmission is computer controlled and will send codes.

[carnuck]

Fuse or trans control computer may be blown.

[badbowtie87]

Does it take a special scanner to get tranny codes or can you use the actron scanner that advance sells?

[langer1]

Does it take a special scanner to get tranny codes or can you use the actron scanner that advance sells?
For 96 it should work.

[tgregg]

I just bought a 96 jeep cherokee country. Its the first jeep ive ever owned so i dont know much about them. The transmission has a weird problem. When you put it in drive and try to take off it slips or actually just feels like it is in third gear trying to take off. If you put it in first gear and manually shifts great with the exception that it only stays in 2nd gear for a split second before it shifts to 3rd on its own. When you come to a stop it does it all over again. It also will not downshift when you step on it and the kickdown isnt broken. Im sure the tranny is not in good shape because the tranny fluid is burntand it has 140K on it but like i said it shifts great when you manually shift it. Any ideas on where to start? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

JOIN THE CLUB!! Mine too!

[badbowtie87]

Join the club as in its yoiur first jeep or your having the same problems?

[lawsoncl]

Check the TPS (throttle position sensor). The throttle cable does not control shifting as in other hydraulic-only transmissions. It controls the internal hydraulic pressure and hence the shift firmness. The Trans computer controls the shifting based on the speeds sensor on the tranny, throttle position, and shifter position. A bad TPS sensor will cause poor shifting.

[badbowtie87]

I put a new tps on as well as a map sensor and that didnt help. Iwas then told to check the TCU fuse and it looked fine. I also tested the power at the TCU and it had power so i thought i would try a new TCU or at least a salvage yard TCU.

[langer1]

I put a new tps on as well as a map sensor and that didnt help. Iwas then told to check the TCU fuse and it looked fine. I also tested the power at the TCU and it had power so i thought i would try a new TCU or at least a salvage yard TCU.
Did you check all three fuses?

[badbowtie87]

Ok idefinatley did not check 3 fuses. just the 2 under the hood. But there are 2 terminals on the TCU plug that have power so i thought that meant it had all the power it need to operate. If there are 3 fuses for that then i have not found them. My haynes manual says nothing about them since they dont go into great auto trans detail.

[langer1]

Ok idefinatley did not check 3 fuses. just the 2 under the hood. But there are 2 terminals on the TCU plug that have power so i thought that meant it had all the power it need to operate. If there are 3 fuses for that then i have not found them. My haynes manual says nothing about them since they dont go into great auto trans detail.
The fuses are F15 F6 F3

[badbowtie87]

Ok, the problem for me is that the fuses under the hood are not labled. I have some small new style fuses and these huge fuses non of which are labled??? I checked all of them and each are fine. All of the fuses under the dash are also fine. I checked each one with a test light. I think im running out of stuff to try.

[langer1]

Ok, the problem for me is that the fuses under the hood are not labled. I have some small new style fuses and these huge fuses non of which are labled??? I checked all of them and each are fine. All of the fuses under the dash are also fine. I checked each one with a test light. I think im running out of stuff to try.
Are your brake lights working?

[badbowtie87]

the brake lights are working but my backup lights are not. I think the nss is to blame for that

[langer1]

the brake lights are working but my backup lights are not. I think the nss is to blame for that
Now that could be important.
Your Backup light's are part or the range selector. if you don't have voltage to the range selector, you will have a problem just like yours.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/FSM/Range.jpg

[95XJ Country]

I am in the middle of the same thing with my 95 xj. I just got a TCU from the junkyard today along with an AW4 and an NJ 242 plus driveshafts for $175 bucks. I am going to try the TCU this weekend if I can find my keys that I lost!! This seems to be a common problem as I have found other threads with the same exact problem. Please keep us posted on your results and I will update with my progress as well.

[badbowtie87]

ok this does make a little sense about the range selector. So basically the way it looks if i have problems with the range selector or no power to it i should say then it will not complete the path to the TCU???? Or it will just cause similar problems?? I did try one new thing today. I unplugged the TCU on my friends 95 country and the problem is identical to mine. But it could just mean that my TCU isnt getting the correct info to do its job. I dont know im just rattling here i guess.

[Justpunchit]

what about tranny shift selenoid.... it happened to mine... just my 2 cents

[badbowtie87]

Yeah ive heard of solenoids going bad but i have heard when that happens you usually just lose 1 gear not all. But im not real sure. I looked at my fueses one more time and everything is fine as far as i can tell so im just gonna try to get a salvage yard TCU. I'll let everyone know if it was the problem or not.

[langer1]

Yeah ive heard of solenoids going bad but i have heard when that happens you usually just lose 1 gear not all. But im not real sure. I looked at my fueses one more time and everything is fine as far as i can tell so im just gonna try to get a salvage yard TCU. I'll let everyone know if it was the problem or not.
After the TCU don't work then clean the NSS/Range switch.

[lawsoncl]

Yeah ive heard of solenoids going bad but i have heard when that happens you usually just lose 1 gear not all. But im not real sure. I looked at my fueses one more time and everything is fine as far as i can tell so im just gonna try to get a salvage yard TCU. I'll let everyone know if it was the problem or not.


Just depends on which solenoid.

[badbowtie87]

OK, I'll clean the nss first. I will do it when i get off work tommorow and let you know by the evening if it fixed it. Any bets????

[badbowtie87]

ok i took the NSS apart. CLeaned it thoroughly with carb cleaner, sanded the terminals lightly and lubed it up with dielectric grease. The backup lights work great now. It did not fix the tranny issue. So ill recap what ive done so far. new TPS, new MAP sensor, NSS switch, checked fuses, checked for power at TCU plug and it has power at 2 terminals. What else could i be missing?

[badbowtie87]

I forgot to ask. Is there a chart that tells what each terminal on the TCU plug should as far as voltage. Maybe if i knew some of these specs i could check the terminals while its running to see if they match up. That might be something to try???

[95XJ Country]

Try this http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/magazines/1997-10/Shift%20Pointers/index.html

[ODXJ97]

I am having the same problem with my 97'. It shifts great manually. Have you had your trans codes tested with a cpu yet? I'll be watching your post for a resolution.

[fxdlrider]

96 should be obd II I think only on 96 you can turn the key in the following sequence starting from the off position: on, off, on, off, on. The check engine will flash the codes from the computer. Haynes publishes the codes. If you still need them, I have them in my manual. I'll look them up for you. I'm also sure you can do a search on this forum. Just make sure you get the right codes for the right year. There were 2 different set of codes from what I can tell.

[badbowtie87]

I didnt have the codes pulled just for the simple fact it was cheaper to order a used TCU. I already tried eveything that i could think of and it has to be that. Im still waiting to recieve the TCU, it shipped on friday. I will let you know if it fixed the problem.

[95XJ Country]

I scored a couple of them at the junkyard this week...let me know if you need another TCU Ihave extras for cheep.

[lawsoncl]

I didnt have the codes pulled just for the simple fact it was cheaper to order a used TCU. I already tried eveything that i could think of and it has to be that. Im still waiting to recieve the TCU, it shipped on friday. I will let you know if it fixed the problem.


Just curious how much you paid. I keep thinking I should make a trip to the local pull-n-save yard and start pulling trans and engine computers to resell on eBay. The yard only charges $8 each, and sometimes $3 if the counter person doesn't know what it is. Of course, with the AW4, usually the computer is the last thing to suspect or replace. In your case, if you have voltage to the TCU I would first suspect either a bad solenoid, wiring or the computer.

[95XJ Country]

Just curious how much you paid. I keep thinking I should make a trip to the local pull-n-save yard and start pulling trans and engine computers to resell on eBay. The yard only charges $8 each, and sometimes $3 if the counter person doesn't know what it is. Of course, with the AW4, usually the computer is the last thing to suspect or replace. In your case, if you have voltage to the TCU I would first suspect either a bad solenoid, wiring or the computer.


$10 bucks for TCU (got 3)

$60 for transfercase (got 2)

$75 for AW4 ( one of these)

$10 for DS I got three of everything except the AW4...only wanted one.

I am picking up a D44 in the morning but I am paying premium for it. They are hard to come by at the Pick N Pull bt only $60 for a D44

[MudSlinger]

O.k guys don't any of you own a scanner? Not to sound rude but I keep reading topic of problems that can be fixed with a scanner. Some 95's are OBD II and everything from 96 is. If you look at the prices the low cost ones are the same price as the parts your throwing at the problems. Most shops charge $80.00 to pull the codes. Mac Tools sells one under $200.00 and most auto parts houses sell some for under $100.00. Think of it like this " It will pay for it self just after one or two repairs". O.K I did pay more for mine but it will do all my vehicles (92 Ranger, 88 Cherokee Chief and 97 Land Rover Disc.). Trust me it's paid for it's sell 10x. Benefits would be 1)you see what the computer sees 2) Able to check the sensor on the vehicle 3) pull codes (Engine, ABS and TRANS 4) not buying part that are not needed 5) piece of mind that the problem is solve and your not crossing your fingers and 6) your wife mon't be upset with you wasting money on your jeep...

[ODXJ97]

Well, I pulled a code 66 (the TCU is sending no message to the ECM) by doing the magical key turn deal. So, just waitin' to see if the new/used TCU fixes your problem.

[badbowtie87]

Well, langer said that replacing my TCU wouldnt fix my problem. I have to admit i doubted him but he was right! The friggin thing didnt change a anything. I tried the used TCU in a buddies XJ and worked fine. I should have tried my old one on his XJ but i guess i was too much of a moron to think of that until today and it worked fine also. I thought of one last thing to try that i didnt before and that was to check the ground terminal on the TCU plug for continuity. It does have a good ground. Anyone want to buy a jeep? LOL

[langer1]

I'm thinking that the only thing not checked is the ground for the transmission solenoids, I think they're on the dipstick bolt.

[badbowtie87]

i just did a check at the TCU terminals. Everything seems to check out to spec except the #2 shift solenoid. It says it should be within 11-15 ohms and it is measuring about 24 ohms. Think its possible that this could be causing my entire problem? I didnt check the solenoid ground at the dipstick. I will have to do that tommorow its gettin late here.

[langer1]

i just did a check at the TCU terminals. Everything seems to check out to spec except the #2 shift solenoid. It says it should be within 11-15 ohms and it is measuring about 24 ohms. Think its possible that this could be causing my entire problem? I didnt check the solenoid ground at the dipstick. I will have to do that tommorow its gettin late here.
I doubt it.

[lawsoncl]

i just did a check at the TCU terminals. Everything seems to check out to spec except the #2 shift solenoid. It says it should be within 11-15 ohms and it is measuring about 24 ohms. Think its possible that this could be causing my entire problem? I didnt check the solenoid ground at the dipstick. I will have to do that tommorow its gettin late here.


Certainly could cause the shifting problem. The #2 solenoid is engaged for 2nd and 3rd gear, so I would think you'd only have 1st and 4th. I would pull the pan and measure the solenoid directly and make sure it's not a wiring problem. Doesn't explain the code 66 about the Engine Computer not getting messages from the TCU.

[langer1]

Certainly could cause the shifting problem. The #2 solenoid is engaged for 2nd and 3rd gear, so I would think you'd only have 1st and 4th. I would pull the pan and measure the solenoid directly and make sure it's not a wiring problem. Doesn't explain the code 66 about the Engine Computer not getting messages from the TCU.
Accept he would start it 1st and go stright to 4th, he can't even start it 1st without shifting down manualy just like the TCU is disconnected.

[lawsoncl]

Accept he would start it 1st and go stright to 4th, he can't even start it 1st without shifting down manualy just like the TCU is disconnected.

Okay, I think I missed that part. I was just seeing that it was skipping over second and third and the corresponding shift solenoid was reading way hihg resistance. So it is shifting as if the TCU had no solenoid control.

After re-reading the whole thread, I see he has power at the TCU connector and swapping the TCU didn't help. Did you check all of the grounds? Is the TCU well grounded? How about the engine/tranny? With the vehicle parking brake on, engine off, do you see voltage applied to any of the solenoids when you move the shifter?

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Badbowtie, the D7 plug terminal on the TCU is the ground. You can see if there's continuity between it and the body to check the ground wiring. If it's OK, I'd look at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) as being bad. IIRC, it bolts into the tailshaft area on the driver's side. Also check the wiring to it....

[lawsoncl]

A bad output shaft speed sensor will make it stay in first gear as the tranny thinks you aren't moving. On the early AW4s, the sensor is a reed relay that closes once per turn - easy enough to check with an meter and turning the shaft by hand. On the later AW4s (97+ I think) it's a inductive pickup so you can't check it this way, but those also have additional input shaft speed sensor.

[badbowtie87]

when i did the check at the TCU terminals it showed that each of the pins that controlled shifting had power as I selected the gear manually, so i know im ok on that end. I also did a continuity check at D7 to a door hinge bolt and it showed that it had a complete ground. I still need to check the solenoid ground that Langer was talking about. i havent been getting home until dark so its been a pain to find time to get this thing figured out.

[lawsoncl]

Ok re-reading and sorting out who had what symptoms again (got thrown by someone else chiming in about an error 66). Holler if I missed something badbowtie87.

Symptoms:
In D, it's starting in 3rd or 4th. Shifting manually it goes from 1st to 3rd very quickly and doesn't kickdown under throttle. TCU pins have power and good ground. #2 shift solenoid has a high resistance. You see power at appropriate shifter sense pins when moving the shifter. Swapped TPS, MAP, and TCU. Cleaned NSS.

Can you clarify what it's doing if you put in (1-2). Does it upshift at all or stay in 1st? If the TCU is dead (1-2) should stay in 1st, (3) stay in 3rd, and OD should stay in 4th. If it's upshifting then the TCU is doing something.

Can you check if solenoid #1 is getting power with the ignition on in park. Below is the chart for the solenoids. Solenoid #3 is the torque converter lockup. The solenoids only have a single-wire connector so they get grounded through the tranny chassis. I don't recall if there was a dedicated ground wire from the tranny in the wiring harness (there is one from the speed sensor as I recall). Verify that you have a good ground from the tranny to the body and battery.

Shifter Gear Energized Solenoids
P Park #1-on, #2-off
R Reverse #1-on, #2-off
N Neutral #1-on, #2-off
D First #1-on, #2-off
D Second #1-on, #2-on
D Third #1-off, #2-on
D OD #1-off, #2-off
3 First #1-on, #2-off
3 Second #1-on, #2-on
3 Third #1-off, #2-on
1-2 First #1-on, #2-off
1-2 Second #1-on, #2-on


So regardless of shifter position and the NSS output, you should see #1-on, #2-off when the vehicle is stopped. That high resistance on the #2 solenoid is suspicious.

-Chris

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Badbowtie, I also have a 96, and just looked under it. The VSS/speed sensor is located at the rear of the transfer case, just in front of the driveshaft. One bolt to remove, with a three wire connector. Might be worth a look, since it's so easy to access.

That #2 solenoid resistance seems suspect to me too. Obviously it's not fully shorted or open, but just might be out of spec enough to be sticking closed....?

[95XJ Country]

Bowtie I have the same problem going on and I replaced the tcu and still have the same problem. I need to replace my tranny anyway since the person I bought it from has driven it in this condition for over a month before selling it to me. I don't have any faith in the tranny anymore so since I picked one up for $75 and it is in great shape and my transfer case has a hole in it so I am just going to replace them both and hope the problem goes away. If not then it must be a sensor or bad wire. I hope to get to work on it within the next week but I am really busy with work.

[badbowtie87]

Lawson, the way you have described my problem is exactly the issue im having. I have replaced all sensors that could cause an issue like this with the exception of the speed sensor. It will not upshift on its own at all. I can shift into second manually but it goes to third immediatly then i shift to 4th and it stays in 4th with no lockup. No downshift at all. Im gonna double check the pins at the TCU terminal one more time and also the speed sensor maybe even just replace the thing. If that doesnt take care of it i will pull the pan and check things out there. It could use a new filter anyways im sure. The guy i bought this jeep from drove it like this for a while and shifted it manually. The fluid is burnt pretty bad so if it ends up needing shift solenoids or something like that i think i will just go ahead and get a used low miliage tranny. Not sure which route im gonna take yet. I will keep posting to let you guys know what i find out.

[badbowtie87]

i feel like im leading you guys on a wild goose chase. I rechecked my specs at the TCU plug one more time and came up with some different specs than before. The #3 converter solenoid reads 1.2 ohm. Shift solenoid #2 reads 48milliohms. Shift solenoid #1 reads gives no reading. The TPS voltage input reads .8 volts at closed throttle and 1.9 volts at wide open throttle. The rest seems to be within spec.

[lawsoncl]

i feel like im leading you guys on a wild goose chase. I rechecked my specs at the TCU plug one more time and came up with some different specs than before. The #3 converter solenoid reads 1.2 ohm. Shift solenoid #2 reads 48milliohms. Shift solenoid #1 reads gives no reading. The TPS voltage input reads .8 volts at closed throttle and 1.9 volts at wide open throttle. The rest seems to be within spec.

Those numbers sound even stranger. A bad speed sensor will cause it to not upshift out of 1st, but it doesn't explain starting in 4th gear in (D). I can vouch that a bad (or in my case disconnected) speed sensor will start in 1st gear and not upshift in (D).

If it's any help, the solenoids are on the bottom and easily replaced once the pan is off.

[langer1]

i feel like im leading you guys on a wild goose chase. I rechecked my specs at the TCU plug one more time and came up with some different specs than before. The #3 converter solenoid reads 1.2 ohm. Shift solenoid #2 reads 48milliohms. Shift solenoid #1 reads gives no reading. The TPS voltage input reads .8 volts at closed throttle and 1.9 volts at wide open throttle. The rest seems to be within spec.
Make sure your meter is working, did you have the connector unplugged?

[lawsoncl]

Make sure your meter is working, did you have the connector unplugged?

I'm wondering if his meter even reads milliohms. Most don't go that low. Sounds more like an voltage reading.

[badbowtie87]

I had the connector plugged in when it was suppose to be plugged in and unplugged when it specified to be unplugged. I used the chart from Transonline.com
I just assumed the reading was milliohms because it had an M flashing on the screen when i checked it under the ohms setting. Im not that great with multi meters but as far as i know i was doing it right. I am gonna pull the pan this weekend if i get the time. It has to be the solenoids or a ground issue with them. I think it might be best to check the resistance at the plug and then at the solenoids. Maybe this will tell me if its a wiring problem or the solenoids.

[langer1]

I had the connector plugged in when it was suppose to be plugged in and unplugged when it specified to be unplugged. I used the chart from Transonline.com
I just assumed the reading was milliohms because it had an M flashing on the screen when i checked it under the ohms setting. Im not that great with multi meters but as far as i know i was doing it right. I am gonna pull the pan this weekend if i get the time. It has to be the solenoids or a ground issue with them. I think it might be best to check the resistance at the plug and then at the solenoids. Maybe this will tell me if its a wiring problem or the solenoids.
If your reading OHMS for the solenoids the connector must be unplugged and readings are from ground.
When ever reading OHMS be sure all voltage is removed or you will blow most meters.

[badbowtie87]

Ok, I have one last question and i promise i will stop bugging you guys. I did yet another check at the TCU plug (unplugged). I checked continuity of the solenoid terminals (c14-c15-c16) When i checked through the ground(D7) the only one that had continuity was c14. c15 and c16 had nothing. Am I on to something here or still pissin in the wind.

[badbowtie87]

I also forgot to add that i checked the ground wires at the dipstick tube and they all had continuity.

[langer1]

Ok, I have one last question and i promise i will stop bugging you guys. I did yet another check at the TCU plug (unplugged). I checked continuity of the solenoid terminals (c14-c15-c16) When i checked through the ground(D7) the only one that had continuity was c14. c15 and c16 had nothing. Am I on to something here or still pissin in the wind.
Check them at the plug on the transmission. I say your on to something because I doubt 2 solenoids would go bad at the same time. Any going bad is rare.
Check the 7 way connector.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/FSM/7wayconnector.jpg

[lawsoncl]

Ok, I have one last question and i promise i will stop bugging you guys. I did yet another check at the TCU plug (unplugged). I checked continuity of the solenoid terminals (c14-c15-c16) When i checked through the ground(D7) the only one that had continuity was c14. c15 and c16 had nothing. Am I on to something here or still pissin in the wind.

A bad connection for the #1 and #2 solenoids would cause your symptoms. I too doubt that two solenoids have gone bad, so I would start checking the wiring for damage.

Nice picture Langer! My 95 FSM shows the soleniod wire colors in the gray connector are dark-blue with white stripe, violet with white stripe, and white with black stripe. The 99 AW4 I installed in my MJ had black stripes on the wiring instead of white, but the base colors should be the same. Unplug that connector and check the solenoid wires to ground there.

Pins D3 and D7 on the TCU connector both measured zero or less than 0.5 ohms to a grounded point on the body (such as the cig lighter shell)? The M on a meter usually means mega ...

[lawsoncl]

Just wanted to reiterate that you should be measuring between c14, c15 and c16 and a ground point on the body - not the D7 ground pin on the connector. (D3 is a sensor ground and not really a true ground either). The solenoids do not have seperate ground wires, but are grounded through the tranny case to the engine and back to the battery.

This is especially true if you undo and measure at the gray connector because the black/tan "ground" wire on the tranny side of the connector only goes to the rear speed sensor and isn't grounded to the tranny. Pin D7 in the TCU connector gets spliced into to a common ground somewhere in the wiring harness between the TCU connector and the gray connector.

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The TPS voltage input reads .8 volts at closed throttle and 1.9 volts at wide open throttle.BadBowtie, that's a very low TPS voltage on the wide open throttle end. It should be about 4.8v at WOT. Since the TCU uses TPS inputs when shifting, you might want to double check the TPS readings.

[badbowtie87]

I dropped the pan to have a look at the solenoids. One solenoid had a yellow wire, one had a white wire, and there was a solenoid with a black wire. The yellow wire solenoid had about 14 ohms resistance. The other two wouldnt even read until i switched the meter over to what i believe is called mega ohms. So i think that there is hardly any resistance there. I checked each of the solenoids with battery voltage. The yellow wired solenoid made a very slight clicking noise when i applied power to it. The other two made absolutly no noise. Im assuming that this means the solenoids are bad???? What else could i check for while the pan is off?

[lawsoncl]

I dropped the pan to have a look at the solenoids. One solenoid had a yellow wire, one had a white wire, and there was a solenoid with a black wire. The yellow wire solenoid had about 14 ohms resistance. The other two wouldnt even read until i switched the meter over to what i believe is called mega ohms. So i think that there is hardly any resistance there. I checked each of the solenoids with battery voltage. The yellow wired solenoid made a very slight clicking noise when i applied power to it. The other two made absolutly no noise. Im assuming that this means the solenoids are bad???? What else could i check for while the pan is off?

Very high resistance sounds like bad solenoids. The 14 ohms sounds about right (11-15 is normal). If your meter does amperage, measure the current when you apply battery voltage. I don't have the FSM in front of me, but I believe it said 1 to 1.2 amps was normal.

[badbowtie87]

Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for helping me through this tranny problem and also let you know that it was the shift solenoids. Two of them were bad but i went ahead and replaced all three of them. Shifts like a brand new trans now. As soon as i get my new tires and wheels i will post some pictures of the RE 5.5" lift I just put in. Looks gay with the 235's and all that lift. lol

[lawsoncl]

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

[bigblackjeep95]

Hey guys got a question for the experts.

I have a 95 XJ 4.0L AW4 8" RK LA, 35's, 4.56's, detroits and about 200K on it. After a trail ride last week its was about 70* outside, ran about 3.5hrs straight, when we were done with the trail getting ready to hit the road, took it out of 4LO, backed up a few feet, went into Drive and it felt like something was in front of me, but there wasn't. So i put it down in drive 1-2 just fine, got up to about 15mph, shifted into drive it was ok. Let it sit for about 2hrs (figured it was a heating issue) went out, it was just fine. I though that was it.

Well took it out to the car wash yesterday, about 70* outside again, its exactly 1.3miles from home, ran up there no problem shifted fine, let it run for the 3.5mins that the carwash was running, got in, didn't want to move in drive, no slipping feeling, just like it wasn't in 1st, shifted to drive 1-2, had power as it should, shifted up to drive after about 10-15mph and it was ok. So that eliminated my thoughts of a heating issue.

Pulled the dipstick, trans fluid is clean, no burnt smell, and a hair below the full line for running temp.


BTW GREAT SITE EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!

Also I started a new thread b/c this one hasnt been active since Jan.

Thanks,

Barry