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Hubs Smubs, Flanges Smanges.

Captain Ron

NAXJA Forum User
Location
On the horizion
Aka the "Crappy welding thread". :D

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Only in off road vehicle work does this become a *precision* adjustment tool... Sheesh. :D

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--ron
 
Ron, what are those things? What am I missing?

How come one side is TIG and the other MIG?
 
Goatman said:
Ron, what are those things? What am I missing?

How come one side is TIG and the other MIG?

Volvo 1 ton portal thingamajigies. The bolt pattern was changed.

The TIG side was for penetration. They get faced off next for runout. The MIG side is to compensate for the natural dishing of the flanges inwards after being pressed on, and for material buildup. I may need to spotface for the lugs.

I turned the thingamajigies down to a tapered 8 tenths, 2 thou press fit. Believe it or not, the water jet cut flanges had only 1 thou taper and were all within 2 thou. Made life easy.

I'm seriously looking at these things. I know guys are breaking them, but I have a set on the way. Anything that compact, that light, and with a housing made of sheetmetal (scrap... :D) has got my attention.

--ron

PS: I'm cutting the set into tiny little pieces. :D
 
PS:...

There seems to be alot of "what settings" (don't try to pull 260 amps at home... :D) yak, yak, yak.

Thats what some of the pics explain. Also positioning... In my experience, the single biggest factor to just plain crappy looking welds. Look at the black glove in the squirt gun pics.

Go back and look at the Syncrowave pics. The first shinning star that can tell me what the *secret* setting is gets a big wet sloppy kist at the next run. :D

GL

--ron
 
Captain Ron said:
Aka the "Crappy welding thread". :D

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--ron

Ahhhhh, uhhhhh, uhhhhhhhh, oh yeah baby.....

Now I have to change my pants. :loveu:

Awesome work Ron!

The Volvos are 2.5Ton btw. They were originally rated at 4Ton but Volvo changed the tonnage rating (but not the axles) somewhere in the middle production years.

You've made this web-wheeler cry just a little.
 
Ron, I'm clueless but I'm willing to learn a little.

Could "Decreasing frequency produces a broader arc cone, which widens the weld bead profile and better removes impurities from the surface of the metal. It also transfers the maximum amount of energy to the work piece, which speeds up applications requiring heavy metal deposition (such as building up a worn part or making a fill pass)." have something to do with it?

Also I know that more balance creates a deeper and more narrow bead. Could that be down to build a wide bead? I found this also, "Too much EP creates a large ball on the end of the tungsten. Consequently, the arc loses stability and then you can't control arc direction or the weld puddle; arc starts also degrade."

I'm half tempted to post some of my stick welds up to really make you look bad. No need for an X-ray machine since you can see through them. :D
 
Lincoln said:
...
Could "Decreasing frequency produces a broader arc cone, which widens the weld bead profile and better removes impurities from the surface of the metal. It also transfers the maximum amount of energy to the work piece, which speeds up applications requiring heavy metal deposition (such as building up a worn part or making a fill pass)." have something to do with it?

Text books confict to some extent on the application of HF under various circumstances. Most books would agree with you for AC in an aluminum application. In practice, keeping HF down to the absolute minimum has always worked to my advantage in tough situations.

The setting is indeed running continuous, and minimum HF. In ferrous applications, what I find happens in all but the most high end equipment is that at higher thruputs (hi amps) the arc starts to become unstabilized. It is most noticeable in AC, but it can also get out of hand in DCEN (DC, electrode negative).

This is where we deviate from the book to some extent in primary benefit. In DCEN, running continous and minimum HF does broaden the arc cone, but only marginally. The greatest benefit is stabilizing the arc itself. I find initially setting the HF high, then bringing it down to just past the point where the HF stops the apparent "rotating" is the place to be at full pedal.
The ideal setting changes depending on position, I dont know why, but I always make sure I do my settings in the position the final welds will be in.

I all other aspects, I'd agree with your statement. HF is killer for keeping HR scale out of the puddle.

Lincoln said:
Also I know that more balance creates a deeper and more narrow bead. Could that be down to build a wide bead? I found this also, "Too much EP creates a large ball on the end of the tungsten. Consequently, the arc loses stability and then you can't control arc direction or the weld puddle; arc starts also degrade."
...

This applies to AC, and is all true.

Positioning technique is 90% of the battle in TIG. It seems like flat circular parts give most people the greatest difficulty. I used to struggle to no end as a kid doing areospace parts on rotary tables. Tipping things up when you can and running sections only as long as a braced reach will get you is a very effective solution, no matter what shape the parts are.

--ron
 
Captain Ron said:
I used to struggle to no end as a kid doing areospace parts on rotary tables.

Yeah, me too.
 
Thanks for the info. I quoted that crap I stole from Miller to tip you off I had no idea what I was talking about. One of these days I'm going to get some kind of training. Almost all of my welding skills (very little) were learned by little bits and pieces I picked up from people like you and the occasional friend that would watch and make fun of me.

Funny, I like to tip all of my work no matter what the shape. I started that for the same reasons you discussed. It was easier to get a brace on one of the hands and still get positioned.
 
Captain Ron said:
Aka the "Crappy welding thread". :D



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--ron

And here I thought you just had your Harbor Freight knob turned down to minimize crappiness!
 
CRASH said:
And here I thought you just had your Harbor Freight knob turned down to minimize crappiness!

you'll note that knob does not go to 11.
 
CRASH said:
And here I thought you just had your Harbor Freight knob turned down to minimize crappiness!

I ALWAYS turn my Harbor Freight knob down :lol:

nice, work Ron. I want to learn TIG at some point. wish I had 3-phase electrical at home :)
 
SeanP said:
nice, work Ron. I want to learn TIG at some point. wish I had 3-phase electrical at home :)

Wonder what Ron would think of this.

A friend of mine recently closed down his shop to do CNC installs full time. His MIG is a 3-phase unit and now runs on a rotary converter. He says it's working great so far.

His TIG is a 300 amp single phase. I'm guessing that would be around around a 40 240v draw and it would probably be setup for a 50 amp service. Is that about right?

I kind of lucked out. My house was built with electric heat so I ended up with a 250 amp service. The electric heat has been romoved so I should have no problem running whatever I like.

I'd like to pick up a multi process machine. Not sure what the draw backs would be but I wouldn't need to have two boxes setting around. Used 3-phase units sell cheap (relative) around here and I could build the converter. I'm really need to look into forming a "I hate the Captain" club. :D
 
Lincoln said:
Thanks for the info. I quoted that crap I stole from Miller
We figgured that.
Lincoln said:
to tip you off I had no idea what I was talking about.
like normal
Lincoln said:
One of these days I'm going to get some kind of training. Almost all of my welding skills (very little)...
We also knew that
Lincoln said:
were learned by little bits and pieces I picked up from people like you and the occasional friend that would watch and make fun of me.
1-You don't really have friends.
2-evryone makes fun of you, no matter what you do.

You are too easy.....
 
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