Bending 14 gauge steel

First off I do have this question in the Fab forum , but no takers so I thought I'd run it thru here and see if I get any usable ideas.
I bought a slice of 14 gauge (ouch sharp edges) to fit from my back door to the tailights for protection.
I thought it would be a bit more plyable. My first work with rolled steel. Is there a way to contour it to the body panel so it fits snug. It would have to be a back yard method. I had an idea of getting a couple pieces of 1" x 1" wood and set the steel on that and roll over it with the Jeep ? I figure I'll cut out around the flares and gas cap with a plasma cutter. I have a jigsaw , but from looks of the thickness it isn't going to cut it.
Any help would be Greatly appreciated. Yes I'm a rook so be gentle.
Thanks :compwork:

I just need a small contour in the middle of the large piece that goes from the tail light to door. I won't cut around the flare until after I bend it. I shouldn't need 2 bends. The lower armour on the rocker I already have made and installed.
The arrows and line in the pic show where the bend needs to be. Right down the center of the 34"x12" piece that will fit in that area. Then I will trim around the wheelwells and gas fill opening.
You can kind of make out the contour I need by looking at the tail light where it runs along the body.

14 gauge is not really all that thick.

If you are insisting on using this material, I would guess you could just deform it by hand. Grab one end with each hand and create a "bow" with the metal until it stays where you want it. It will spring back a little, but you can just deform it a little more.

How are you going to attach it to the rear quarter panel?

As thin as 14 gauge is, you could probably just start bolting/riveting it as you bend and let the fasteners hold it in place.

If I was bending it long ways maybe. But because I need to bend the short section 12" at the halfway mark the whole length it isn't possible with hands. I stood on it with my 180lbs and my sons 200 lbs and it didn't bend.
What do you think of this idea, Set the metal on half inch piece of wood on either side running the length of the 34" and then slowly run over it with my 10" mud terrains. It may put a little to much of a bend , but I should be able to bend it back slightly by standing on it. I am going to rivet it down with a thin layer of silicone behind it.
Here is a picture of what I am doing. Mine won't go past the tail lights like this.

Get two peices of angle iron longer than your peice you are making.

Clamp the work peice between the angle peices in your vise. If the angle is longer than the jaws of your vise then make sure you clamp the angle ends.

Use a peice of hardword (maple, oak, etc.) as a dolly and bend the work peice with the a dead blow hammer to form the bends. Depending on what you are doing you may want a longer or narrower peice of wood. The idea is to distribute the load so you don't mar the work peice of get it bending unevenly.

With 14 gauge body metal I'd probably be inclined to heat it with the torch a touch just to make it go quicker/smoother.

HTH

Done with Fab work. Used the 2x4 & tire method. Jacked up the wheel set it in the middle and slowly drove back and forth. Worked great. Jigsaw and 4" grinder for cutting and grinding.Rivets should draw it in tighter and I'll have silicone behind it to prevent rattling.
Thanks for help