'91 XJ with no bright headlights

The bright headlight beams (both) (two headlight system, not four) do not come on. The headlights themselves are okay. The low beams work just fine. All other lights, signals, etc work fine; including the blue high beam indicator light. I'm getting no voltage to the headlamps when the switch is in the high beam position. 'Seems obvious to me that the turn-signal/wiper/bright-dim switch needs to be replaced in the column. BUT, I just thought I'd check-in with you folks to make sure I haven't considered some relay or some other item/cause I might not have thought of. Thanks! Don

Looked at the wiring diagrams in a Haynes repair manual...there doesn't appear to be any relays or breakers between the switch (dimmer switch) and headlamp.

There are two power wires from the switch to the headlamp...one for low beam (lt. grn) and the other for high beam (wht).

Can you do a continuity check between the switch and headlamp plug...maybe something snuck inside your Cherokee and chewed some wires???

good luck.

Thanks. Yea, I also looked at the diagrams and didn't see any breakers/etc . . . but, I'm not too good at that. I do have the tool to release the pressure for removal of the plate below the wheel & horn-switch/etc and I'm probably going to take a stab at removing and replacing the switch on Friday. 'Anything I need to be especially careful about? I have Haynes and chilton manuals . . . . thanks! Don

[btw, based on Eagle's advice in a previous post on this subject, I'm ruling-out the headlamp switch.]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72420&highlight=high+beam

Re: '91 XJ with no bright headlights - - 'Happened again

Well, a week ago I had the dimmer switch replaced. That WAS it. It worked fine for a week and last evening, coming home, my wife (again) had no high beams. Exactly the same problem.

(By the way, I am now aware the dimmer switch on the '91 is not under the steering wheel but lower down the column and is rod-activated.)

I know this could all be just a coincidence and the new dimmer switch failed prematurely. I'm more inclined, however, to assume some fault is damaging that switch. I thought about some problem with the headlight switch but, it seems to me there would only be one wire running from the headlamp switch to the dimmer switch and so, if it was originating from a problem in the headlight switch, why wouldn't it affect the low beam as well?

I will be taking it back to the shop, of course. But, any thoughts would certainly be appreciated. I do know there was minimal corrosion around the old switch and that we should be checking that even more thoroughly. Other . . . . Thanks! Don

Don Becker said:

Thanks. Yea, I also looked at the diagrams and didn't see any breakers/etc . . . but, I'm not too good at that. I do have the tool to release the pressure for removal of the plate below the wheel & horn-switch/etc and I'm probably going to take a stab at removing and replacing the switch on Friday. 'Anything I need to be especially careful about? I have Haynes and chilton manuals . . . . thanks! Don

[btw, based on Eagle's advice in a previous post on this subject, I'm ruling-out the headlamp switch.]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72420&highlight=high+beam

Click to expand...

The switch is not under the wheel, it's bolted on the side of the column under the dash.

There's a connector in the left front fender, behind the airbox. It's pretty well known for corrosion issues. I lost front parking lights first, then both high and low beams when the conductors cracked.

Thanks! I'll also take a look at that. Don

ChiXJeff, you ARE thee man! Thank you! The problem was that connector. Actually, it's ahead of the air box. Everything around there was so clean and dry I almost didn't even check it . . . big mistake that would have been. It was corroded inside. I cleaned it as best I could with pipe cleaners and a very small brush, put dilectric grease on the individual sockets and . . . . . we have high beams again. 'Likely that old dimmer switch was actually okay after all . . . 'not a problem . . . it was only some $30 + labor and certainly seemed like the culpret, at the time. Thanks again! Don