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View Full Version : Axzilla Jr. (HP44) housing done

Roxtar
February 27th, 2006, 13:30
Just about there.
Here are the build-up pics.
http://www.midwestxj.org/Gallery/Front-HP44-AXZILLA

Tubes are Waggy width 3"X 2" (yea, that's 1/2" wall) 4140, induction hardened, chrome plated.
Arch is 3"X 1" channel, notched for the bends and then 1/4" plate welded to the underside, basically creating a 3"X 1"X 1/4"wall rectangular tube.
Coil buckets are 1/2" plate and 3.5"X3" tube
Figured adding a truss would just be silly.

Inside will be Dutchman inners, Warn outers, Jantz Joints, ARB, 5.13 gears, and Warn premium hubs.
David Taylor
February 27th, 2006, 13:54
You know a 44 will never hold up right ?
Roxtar
February 27th, 2006, 14:01
You know a 44 will never hold up right ?Yea, and XJs will fold like a taco if you offroad them.
They have a unibody ya know.
XJ_ranger
February 27th, 2006, 14:11
memo to all MWC -

stop with Beezil sackrideage

commence with Brad sackrideage movement of 2006
seanR
February 27th, 2006, 15:11
Meh!
Jeff 98XJ WI
February 27th, 2006, 19:50
Damn Brad, you're making me sick with all those fancy machines! Why the hell did you even screw with that D30 front when you had the ability to MAKE new tubes for a 44? Unbelievable. How did you press the tubes into the housing? Did you use a long threaded rod of some sort and just pull the tubes in with the threads? I don't think that's what you did, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures. Give me some explanations. Did you turn the ends of the tube a touch for a press fit in the housing? Very interesting how you bored out the old tube pieces from the housing. Were they 1/4" wall? How did you open up the plug weld holes after the tube bores were opened up? Just smack the old weld with a chisel? Did the plug weld area present a problem to the boring cutter since the plug welds are quite hard? Again, I'm impressed. Jeff
tealcherokee
February 28th, 2006, 06:29
looks sick.....but wheres the upper control arm mounts?
Roxtar
February 28th, 2006, 06:51
Damn Brad, you're making me sick with all those fancy machines! Why the hell did you even screw with that D30 front when you had the ability to MAKE new tubes for a 44? Unbelievable. How did you press the tubes into the housing? Did you use a long threaded rod of some sort and just pull the tubes in with the threads? I don't think that's what you did, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures. Give me some explanations. Did you turn the ends of the tube a touch for a press fit in the housing? Very interesting how you bored out the old tube pieces from the housing. Were they 1/4" wall? How did you open up the plug weld holes after the tube bores were opened up? Just smack the old weld with a chisel? Did the plug weld area present a problem to the boring cutter since the plug welds are quite hard? Again, I'm impressed. JeffI once asked about retubing and the first response started with, "drill out the plug welds and..."
Whooooa. That ain't gonna happen. Tried starting with a 1/16" drill bit and couldn't make a dent.
Those welds are HARD.
Ended up with a .025" taper in the housing when fly-cutting the tubes out from the tool hitting them. That's with a carbide tool.
I was able to just knock the rest of the weld out when it got thin enough and then recut to get rid of the taper. Machined it to a .012" press fit.
To keep everything straight I took a piece of 1.75" X 45" solid chrome OD bar and threaded a 1"-7 ID thread in both ends.
I then made steel bushings with that ID to fit in the housing bearing journels.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/kid4lyf/retube2.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/kid4lyf/retube3.jpg

I machined the tubes to length and OD fit and then made bronze bushings for the outer ID end to fit the 1.75" rod. That gave me bearing surfaces in the housing and both tube ends to keep everything lined up for welding.
After preheating the hell out of the housing ends, I slid the tubes on the chrome rod and used a 1"-7thrd bolt on one end and a piece of 1"-7thrd threaded rod and nut on the other to press everything together.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/kid4lyf/retube5.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/kid4lyf/retube6.jpg

I left it all bolted together from there on through the welding and cooling processes and then used the same method to press and weld the inner Cs on.
I was kinda worried about finding the whole thing might have tweaked from the welding/heating/cooling processes (I'd find out when the time came to remove the 1.75" rod) but it slid right out when done.
Roxtar
February 28th, 2006, 06:53
looks sick.....but wheres the upper control arm mounts?http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c192/kid4lyf/CAmnts3.jpg
CRASH
February 28th, 2006, 06:54
Very professional work.
Roxtar
February 28th, 2006, 08:23
Meh!Comon Sean, sing it for me.
"Ohhhh no, there goes Tokyo.
Go, go Axzilla"
Goatman
February 28th, 2006, 12:52
Brad, I think you've disqualified yourself. No one that attends BOTW does work that nice.......










:D
Roxtar
February 28th, 2006, 14:24
Brad, I think you've disqualified yourself. No one that attends BOTW does work that nice.......










:DYou kidding?
It was the shame from last years BOTW that drove me to this.
Gil BullyKatz
February 28th, 2006, 15:44
Pics don't do it justice...

At 3 feet away the only thought that comes to mind is...

FAWK!

My only observation upon inspecting this beast was...

Why didn't you just go ahead and machine the C's out of Ti?

Truly the prime example of Cabo Manufacturing's slogan...

Overbuilt is Underrated!!!

and yes...

Trussing this axle is like pissing in the ocean...

pic of it painted dayglo yellow to follow
Jes
February 28th, 2006, 15:53
pic of it painted dayglo yellow to follow

Bah! :rolleyes:
I'd get it chromed.
Gil BullyKatz
February 28th, 2006, 16:19
Bah! :rolleyes:
I'd get it chromed.


Wait!

Anodized yellow!!!
Jes
February 28th, 2006, 16:30
Wait!

Anodized yellow!!!

There ya go! :idea:
Lincoln
February 28th, 2006, 18:11
You two are dumb. He's going to go for the hot pink.
Jeff 98XJ WI
February 28th, 2006, 22:08
I once asked about retubing and the first response started with, "drill out the plug welds and..."
Whooooa. That ain't gonna happen. Tried starting with a 1/16" drill bit and couldn't make a dent.
Those welds are HARD.
Ended up with a .025" taper in the housing when fly-cutting the tubes out from the tool hitting them. That's with a carbide tool.
I was able to just knock the rest of the weld out when it got thin enough and then recut to get rid of the taper. Machined it to a .012" press fit.
To keep everything straight I took a piece of 1.75" X 45" solid chrome OD bar and threaded a 1"-7 ID thread in both ends.
I then made steel bushings with that ID to fit in the housing bearing journels.

I machined the tubes to length and OD fit and then made bronze bushings for the outer ID end to fit the 1.75" rod. That gave me bearing surfaces in the housing and both tube ends to keep everything lined up for welding.
After preheating the hell out of the housing ends, I slid the tubes on the chrome rod and used a 1"-7thrd bolt on one end and a piece of 1"-7thrd threaded rod and nut on the other to press everything together.

I left it all bolted together from there on through the welding and cooling processes and then used the same method to press and weld the inner Cs on.
I was kinda worried about finding the whole thing might have tweaked from the welding/heating/cooling processes (I'd find out when the time came to remove the 1.75" rod) but it slid right out when done.

Thank you. Excellent writeup. Jeff
Roxtar
March 1st, 2006, 06:08
Bah! :rolleyes:
I'd get it chromed.The tubes are chrome.
Kinda wish it was a rear axle, needing less welding on the tubes.
Bling bling.