5.5" w/out SYE??

ok i have a trail master 4" kit w/skyjacker 1" shackle in the rear( AAL only lifts 3") when/if i swap my axles i figure while in there i might as well slip a 1.75" spacer in the front and a 1.5" block in the rear. i know it will vibrate but will it work, i have a skyjacker t-case drop in now w/ no problems(there wasn't any before tho either!) how bad will this be until i can go all out and get the SYE put in(estimate bout 6-8 months) this is going to be on my DD so i want real thoughts/ experience? and NO, i did not search on this subject as i figure noone else is as dumb as me to try this one!

if it's a DD, i would do an sye first, they are pretty easy to do, and cheaper now.

i would love too but cant afford it, but will i be ok till i can get one?

i can't tell ya it would be ok, but all it may take is that one extra inch it get crazy vibs, output shaft seals and tailcones don't hold up very long with driveline vib's, if you shop right you can do the job under $250, i got a porc sye for $169 shipped, then got a used front shaft off ebay for $40, then fluid and stuff, and a few hours to do it, and trust me....it was totaly worth every penny!!

trashedxj said:

and NO, i did not search on this subject as i figure noone else is as dumb as me to try this one!

Click to expand...

Yea, do a search for "SYE". You will get more info than you could read in a week.

I have the RE 5.5 ED kit and do not have an SYE, and its on a "vibration prone" 97 also. I do have alot of T-case drop, but I don't have any vibes and my DS hasn't fallen out no matter how hard its been wheeled.

I do plan on going with an SYE eventually, one of the next mods is a DPG T-case skid and I will have to lose the drop to do so. It works for now though.

On a 97+ forget it------------Not gonna happen unless you drop the t-case a whole hell of a lot (waste of time and ground clearance for sure). Not good if you like to wheel. By the way I have experience to go with this, not just spouting bs. I tried to drive my 98 cherokee with the RE 5.5" and no sye and it didn't happen to go to well. I now run a RE hack and tap with high angle driveline shaft with no problems whatsoever. Have no worries with it either.

On an older model ========go for it and try it. I had an 87 that had no problems whatsoever(wheeled it hard with no driveshaft pullout). My friend had a 95 with about 7" and no problems either. My brother has an 89 and until he switched his axle to a mopar 8-3/4 (long pinion snout makes for knarly angles on d-shaft) he had no problems.----------------------just my experiences---------Kyle

ya for sure...i know all of us wanna be higher up...but adding an SYE and driveshaft is sooooo worth it before you lift anymore...i say save up for SYE and driveshaft...then stick in your spacer and block or else you will get strong vibes on a 97+/probably on a pre 97 as well...we don't want your driveshaft to fall out if you keep it like that for 6-8 months because i went up to 5.5 with no CV driveshaft/SYE and my DS fell out after thr 4th month of my lift..soo don't ignore squeaking and vibes because your u-joints will be wearing down a lot faster because of the bad angles...I say it's okay to do it...just know your going to want to get that SYE sooner than you think...

I cant guarantee youll get vibes, but im willing to bet that you will probably get some pretty nasty ones with that much lift on a newer cherokee with no SYE....how bad depends on a ton of factors, none of which we would ever be able to tell you.

I personally wouldnt even think about it....running anything more than 3" without an SYE is just begging for problems IMO...vibes are hard on your driveline and will take their toll pretty quick.

Save up and buy an SYE and driveshaft from Tom Woods...500 bucks up front and you get 100 of that back when you return your driveshaft, rear output and the extension housing. 400 bucks is a hell of a deal for something thats going to give you the ability to lift pretty much as high as you want and still give you a smooth, troublefree driveline.

Since you say your going to buy one 6-8 months down the road, id wait to put more lift on it till then.

Or you could try a later model t-case drop till you can save up for a SYE. Older XJ's t-case drop is 3/4". Later models are 1 1/2" drop. (from Skyjacker)

i ran 5.5" for about 6 months w/o sye and had no vibe issues. i even wheeled it a few times with no problems. however when i put my jeep on a 2 post lift and the axles hung there, the u-joint at the t-case would bind. if your driving on the street you could probly get away with it for a little bit but you def. need to get an sye if your going to keep it there. mine is a 91 laredo and at the time i had a 4.0 with the auto an 242 t-case.


david

I read somewhere that the angles that the t case dropp makes it destroy engine mounts and tranny mounts '
no evidence to this


but the extra deal yoiu get out of the sye that youi can go up higher without having to worry about the problem..

if youi have any inclination that you might put another 2 inches underit at sometime then get the sye now

if youi are certain that yoiu will not go any higer then try the cheap route..


Im at 4.5 on this rig
I am having issues right now with going another 1.5 inches and I have the front shaft and the springs/spacers I need..
but Imleary of doing it , cause if so the lift and my porc sye and front ds dont engage enough splines on a 6" lift I wont be able to afford the woods DS to replace it..;(

then my rig would be down till I could afford it..

Ive read some folks are runnin the cheap combo "sye and front ds" on 6.5" of lift
I ran a t case drop on a 5.5 lift and it was fine but as soon as Iwent to 6.5 I couldnt even drive casue of the u joints binding..

do it right or get somebody who can do it right- hack and tap. if done correctly very effective and cheap, only take ya an hour.

running one on mine with 9'' + , untill the atlas piggybank is full. no problems at all and i flex this thing hard. no vibes at all untill i hit very high rpms just from wrap. i dont exaclty dump the clutch alot but its held up for sure. i like mine alot. running a cvf rubi spicer driveshaft on it. but you could get another shaft and put the flange on it. i was scared when going deeper to 4.88's because of d.s. speeds, but it has suprised me
if you want to wait and save for a HD sye, then i would dot that but not go up in lift height either

skyjackedxj96 said:

do it right or get somebody who can do it right- hack and tap. if done correctly very effective and cheap, only take ya an hour.

running one on mine with 9'' + , untill the atlas piggybank is full. no problems at all and i flex this thing hard. no vibes at all untill i hit very high rpms just from wrap. i dont exaclty dump the clutch alot but its held up for sure. i like mine alot. running a cvf rubi spicer driveshaft on it. but you could get another shaft and put the flange on it. i was scared when going deeper to 4.88's because of d.s. speeds, but it has suprised me
if you want to wait and save for a HD sye, then i would dot that but not go up in lift height either

Click to expand...

Did I miss somthin or did he say he has a 97+ XJ

if ya do then a hand T is great and ussing a front DS will run ya less thatn $200

if thats case great ..

if ya have a older XJ just go with the PORC sye and the front DS and hope ya have enoguh spline egangement at full flex in the back..


worst case scenario is you case sceneario is that you h & t the t case and then the front DS is too short and you have to spend another $220 for a DS
or have the front lenghtened (which I dont advise)..


if the porc sye and Front DS doesnt work then youi could always but the OEM stugg back in till ya can afford a DS that works..


done

:huh:

My brother ran about 5.5" without an SYE had terrible vibes and this eventually happened.



He has an 87