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d44 radius arms

S

snbeard71

NAXJA Forum User
Location
idaho
I'm putting my 44 in with lengthen radius arms and
I'm having a problem getting the coils straight. I know I need to build a better coil mount but I'm running out of time to get this done. So do I need to push the axle forward of pull it back to straighten this up?
skgi_913761_26017.JPG
skgi_913764_32580.JPG
skgi_913767_15084.JPG
 
I would guess pull it back but I can t really see youir setup from those pics

is the weight of vehicle sittin on the springs or is it on a set of jack stands??

looks like you might have some clearance issues with that track bar bracket
 
All the weight is on it. Now I've got to go look at my track bar, what do you see? I've been working on this for too long and don't want to wast more time moving it back and forth to find out whats right. :doh:
 
i see somebody that used an axle he shouldn't have.your caster is completely wrong or atleast that would be my guess.

and the spring being forced outward is not a concern to you?under extreme compression the post is going to try and poke through the spring.
 
Wil Badger said:
i see somebody that used an axle he shouldn't have.your caster is completely wrong or atleast that would be my guess.

and the spring being forced outward is not a concern to you?under extreme compression the post is going to try and poke through the spring.
Click to expand...

its out and forward...

to correct the forward lean, you need to shim the coil bucket - and make it "flat"

to correct the outward lean... you need to move the coilbucket...

tried swaping the bolted on buckets side to side yet?
 
does that actually swing the buckets in,swapping sides.i thought they were the same side to side.

i have never understood why people try to use this axle.the stock buckets are spread to far apart .to use the stock arms and have correct caster they have to be almost parallel to the ground.you can get different bushings for the raduis arms that should help turn it back to correct the forward spring lean.if you are using stock bushings a the frame end they limit flex like a champ and are not really designed to have massive ammounts of movement .
 
Last edited:
I'm only trying to get the bow to go away not the lean. I'll make new mounts later after I see if I like this setup. I'm going to go pull it back and see what happens.

I'd fix the pics but I cant find the edit button today?
 
Wil Badger said:
does that actually swing the buckets in,swapping sides.i thought they were the same side to side.
Click to expand...


The coil cup mounting bolts are drilled off center...

Reversing them so that the offset is towards the center section will get him a little closer...

There's quite a few guys using this same axle with good results...

Someone on here made wedge shaped shims that adjusted the angle of the bucket...

A few guys did away with the stock mounting location atop the radius arm brackets and fabbed a bracket that goes OVER the stock mounts and is welded to the tubes and C's...

wellsville8-06011.jpg


wellsville8-06027.jpg
 
oh i've seen what some of the guys have done here.to me when i was looking to do it the cost of just going with all new stuff was better the wasting my time fooling with the stock stuff and making it fit.

kind of a is the time worth the money thing.i went with the time over money option.i know its not easy to find the late 70's HP out of the F250's as it is to find them out of Broncos and F100/150.

you can get the rubber shims to bring back the caster if thats out.but if its in and the buck still isn't level then you have to do something with the bucket itself
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
The coil cup mounting bolts are drilled off center...

Reversing them so that the offset is towards the center section will get him a little closer...

There's quite a few guys using this same axle with good results...

Someone on here made wedge shaped shims that adjusted the angle of the bucket...

A few guys did away with the stock mounting location atop the radius arm brackets and fabbed a bracket that goes OVER the stock mounts and is welded to the tubes and C's...

wellsville8-06011.jpg


wellsville8-06027.jpg
Click to expand...

That's the plan, as soon as I get all the bugs worked out I'm going to tare it back down. Do the bridge for the coil and truss the 9" and I may do the 63" leafs.
 
Will,
Swapping different degree "C" bushings will not change the angle of the buckets, only correct for caster. With the buckets you can shim one side up or reverse them to narrow them up. I actually just stacked flat washers under the front bolts to shim them up, but theu are known to bend...

Matt
 
Build the caster into your radius arms.
With the extended radius arms mounted, I made a vertical cut in the ford 'i beam" arms almost all the way through and bent them until the coil buckets were more parallel to the ground to straighten the coil bow (also helping castor issues). Then bolt/weld some 1/2" plate on either side of the arms spanning the bent cut. Itll look like a solid rectangular shape instead of i-beam now and the coils will be straight when viewed from the side of the vehicle.
 
FarmerMatt said:
Will,
Swapping different degree "C" bushings will not change the angle of the buckets, only correct for caster. With the buckets you can shim one side up or reverse them to narrow them up. I actually just stacked flat washers under the front bolts to shim them up, but theu are known to bend...

Matt
Click to expand...


i couldn't remember thanks for pointing me straight on that. i was way off now that i think of it .it has been some time since i had my old Bronco
 
I made wedges out of 1x4 barstock cut to 3" and the turned on end and cut diagonally. The inner wedges are 2" wide, but cut from the same 1x4 so the angle is the same at about 10-12*. Cost me about $20 to buy the steel and have a shop do the cutting.
Jeep on!
--Pete

19251280.jpg


19251275.jpg
 
Last edited:
Pete M said:
I made wedges out of 1x4 barstock cut to 3" and the turned on end and cut diagonally. The inner wedges are 2" wide, but cut from the same 1x4 so the angle is the same at about 10-12*. Cost me about $20 to buy the steel and have a shop do the cutting.
Jeep on!
--Pete

19251280.jpg


19251275.jpg
Click to expand...

Yup...

Those are the exact ones I remember seeing a while back...

Thanks for the pic's Pete
 
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