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Chopped top SUT style?

rredalty

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lenoir City, TN
What I was wondering is if the body will flex too much with the top removed SUT style? Right now I have no cage and would I need a full cage, partial cage covering the rear, or none at all? Thanks.
 
Realistically, it totally depends on what kind of use your XJ will see.

A mall crawler rig with the back portion cut away would likely be just fine. Someone who wheels easy to moderate trails and carries alot of gear, spare tire, and stuff would probably see some flexing of the unibody - and eventually cracks and tears to the flexing areas. Hardcore rigs are gonna have problems right from the moment they first get the rig flexed up.

Many moderate to hardcore XJ wheelers will be able to show you cracks that have developed in various locations on their un-chopped rigs. Typically to the upper inside corners near the weather stripping of the "C" pillars, the upper inside corner of the "A" pillar where the roof meets the pillar, and inside the door jambs where the black plastic vent is. The older the XJ, the worse it is. There were some unibody improvements done to '93 and newer XJ's and then again in '97 (If I'm recalling correctly....)

So, basically, the majority of people with experience are gonna tell you that it's definitely not a good idea to cut and remove any structural part of the unibody without reinforcing the area. A cage isn't the only way to reinforce either. A person could still cut the back SUT style and add some structural bracing that would add some strength. But ideally, you want to be able to keep the suspension forces at the rear spring mounts from pushing, pulling and twisting that rear part of the unibody to the point of structural failure.

Just think of the back half of a chopped XJ as a typical pick-up bed. We've all seen what those beds will do when the frame on the truck is flexed - the part of the roof that you want to remove is what's keeping the rear from twisting and flexing.

Ya dig?
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Realistically, it totally depends on what kind of use your XJ will see.

A mall crawler rig with the back portion cut away would likely be just fine. Someone who wheels easy to moderate trails and carries alot of gear, spare tire, and stuff would probably see some flexing of the unibody - and eventually cracks and tears to the flexing areas. Hardcore rigs are gonna have problems right from the moment they first get the rig flexed up.

Many moderate to hardcore XJ wheelers will be able to show you cracks that have developed in various locations on their un-chopped rigs. Typically to the upper inside corners near the weather stripping of the "C" pillars, the upper inside corner of the "A" pillar where the roof meets the pillar, and inside the door jambs where the black plastic vent is. The older the XJ, the worse it is. There were some unibody improvements done to '93 and newer XJ's and then again in '97 (If I'm recalling correctly....)

So, basically, the majority of people with experience are gonna tell you that it's definitely not a good idea to cut and remove any structural part of the unibody without reinforcing the area. A cage isn't the only way to reinforce either. A person could still cut the back SUT style and add some structural bracing that would add some strength. But ideally, you want to be able to keep the suspension forces at the rear spring mounts from pushing, pulling and twisting that rear part of the unibody to the point of structural failure.

Just think of the back half of a chopped XJ as a typical pick-up bed. We've all seen what those beds will do when the frame on the truck is flexed - the part of the roof that you want to remove is what's keeping the rear from twisting and flexing.

Ya dig?
I hope he appreciates such a complete response. Good job Yella!
Billy
 
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Would I need to do a full cage or can I do a cage for the rear section? Also, how do I tie it in to the body or can I just bolt it to the floor with base plates?
 
you have a floor....i thought xjs came from the factory with rusted out floorboards

it should be a full cage, tieing into the "frame"
 
rredalty said:
Would I need to do a full cage or can I do a cage for the rear section? Also, how do I tie it in to the body or can I just bolt it to the floor with base plates?


Well, if you go the cage route, you just as well do a full cage - doing a partial for the back half would seem to me to be just a waste of time and leave your rig looking half finished - in an ass-backward sorta way.

There's lots of examples of what guys have done to their chopped XJ's on www.xjdb.com just enter "chopped" as a search term or even "cage".

You might also search here for pics of Rev Den's rig. He took a two door and "cheromanche'd" it, but went a step further and opened the roof above the front seats as well. He used an interesting design to tie a partial cage into the existing roof structure. (edit: Rev's rig comes up under the chopped search on xjdb.com - it's the red two door.)

The best locations to flat plate mount the footings of your cage are to bolt them thru the floor right above the unibody "frame" rails. Some weld them there, some bolt them thru the rail, others have even used long square u-bolts from the frame rail up into the floor and bolted the plate to those. The front legs of the front cage hoop are gonna be the hardest to mount securely. The floor is curved so the flat plate usually tears thru the metal if you try to sandwich it with a backing plate. Most guys have had to fab up brackets from their frame rails or the legs of their rock rails to attach that part of the cage securely.

But now we've digressed beyond the original question....... :laugh3:
 
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I think if you are asking these questions, you arent ready to chop. At a minimum, if i was chopping, i would sleeve the frame rails first, make base plates to bolt the cage through the floor sandwiching the floor, or i would tie the frame in to some rock sliders from the outside. Maybe you oughtta rethink chopping it
 
I wasn't asking for you to be my mother and tell me if I can or not. I am asking questions on how to do it the correct way so that I don't hop into it with a sawzall and become surprised that it folds in without a cage. And btw, thanks for the help Yella. I'll post pics up when I'm finished.
 
No problem. There's always gonna be nay-sayers givin' grief when a person posts up their ideas.....

The major point to communicate here is that where the XJ is concerned, anytime you compromise the integrity of the unibody, you need to have a decent plan to reinforce what you've done - and get it done before driving it so that a big speed bump or dip in the road doesn't cause you a big problem.

Happy chopping!
 
YELLAHEEP said:
The front legs of the front cage hoop are gonna be the hardest to mount securely. The floor is curved so the flat plate usually tears thru the metal if you try to sandwich it with a backing plate. Most guys have had to fab up brackets from their frame rails or the legs of their rock rails to attach that part of the cage securely.

if you bring the front legs of the cage straight down in front of the dash, and don't kick them forward, mouting it to the front floor is pretty easy as it is stright there. :)
 
IntrepidXJ said:
if you bring the front legs of the cage straight down in front of the dash, and don't kick them forward, mouting it to the front floor is pretty easy as it is stright there. :)

And then chop your legs off to get in and out. lol.

seriously though, I was thinking about doing a back chop on mine and decided to stay clear of the Idea until I had a full cage installed.
 
IntrepidXJ said:
I'm 6'5" and have no problems getting in or out. :laugh3:

Limber, eh?
naughty.gif
















Billy :laugh2:
 
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