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you know your shocks are bad when...

88'XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ny
you buy a 88' xj with 127,000 miles and it has the o.e. shocks...lol

put sensatracks on today....and when removing hte old one i could compress them with one hand...and there was absolutly no reboundi had to pull them open lol.

needless to say it rides 100% better.

O and we did the leaky master cylinder (clutch) too...piece of cake...now i have to clean the fuse block
 
yup...the pugoet (sp)
did a clutch and slave 2 weeks ago (bought hte jeep for $100 due to the clutch)
 
88'XJ said:
....and when removing hte old one i could compress them with one hand...and there was absolutly no reboundi had to pull them open lol.

That's how the new shocks that come with Rusty's kit are!

Three years later and I'm still rollin' with them.
 
Chrged shocks push out. Most AM shocks for off road are not charged they are (forgot the name) but are designed to keep the suspension at a level set by the springs. Most charged shock push out to help with where the vehicle sets and to take the load off of the springs. Low riders use charged to help stop from bottoming out.Also ricers use charged as well.

My Pro comp 2000 are stabilizer shocks they don't push so when I went to install them I had to pull them out to reach the mounts. Even had one guy standing right next to me tell me that those shock are bad(broken) because they did not push out, he drives a ford F250 so enough said. :p
 
I cannot believe that I said the other type in the post. Stabilizer shocks do not push out. Charged shocks do. Man I missed my own crap. Must be loosing it
 
All Shocks are Hydrualic, they use Oil forced thru restrictions and valves to provide the DAMPING Force. With the Force and Speed the Shocks go under with heavy driving, the oil being forced thru the valves and restrictions can foam up, and the shocks won't work as well with foam going thru the valves rather than fluid oil.

If you pressurized the inside of the shock with an Inert Gas, it would help fight the foaming and improve the shock performance. Thus, Nitrogen Charged Shocks were born.

The Gas Pressure is too control the oil foaming and improve shock performance.

The fact that the Gas Pressure forces the strut out, is a side-effect, it has Nothing to do with providing extra spring force.


You can push in a Nitrogen Charged Shocks, it just takes a little extra force and lot more time, you just have to keep applying the force and wait forever as the shock slowly retracts. There are different pressures for different shocks, I'm sure some of the hi-performance shocks with lots of Nitrogen Pressure, you probably could NOT retract that by hand.

The '95 XJ I just picked up for $900, 201k miles on it, that I'm currently fixing up; I think it has the OE shocks as well. Black old fashioned, metal dust skirt, with the metal dust skirt actually rusting all the way thru, and the ride and handling show it as well. I'm sure when I pull the shocks, they'll offer no resistance to being pushing in and out.
 
Rick Anderson said:
The '95 XJ I just picked up for $900, 201k miles on it, that I'm currently fixing up; I think it has the OE shocks as well. Black old fashioned, metal dust skirt, with the metal dust skirt actually rusting all the way thru, and the ride and handling show it as well. I'm sure when I pull the shocks, they'll offer no resistance to being pushing in and out.

Mine was the same 154K and the oem shocks. One pushed out by itself the other three colapsed realy fast :) I guess they needed to be changed :) .
 
Yea, the oil pressure being forced about inside those shocks is incredible, they blow out their seals, wear out dead spots in the valving and tube lining, etc. Most shocks don't last more than 50k miles, the better the quality, the longer they last (driving conditions and abuse effects that as well), but seldom do they last more than 100k miles.
 
Ha Ha .... I've got close to 220k on the original shocks. And yes the ride does suck. (especially since I just added Dakota leafs in the rear for about 3" and still haven't replaced them)
 
88'XJ said:
you buy a 88' xj with 127,000 miles and it has the o.e. shocks...lol

put sensatracks on today....and when removing hte old one i could compress them with one hand...and there was absolutly no reboundi had to pull them open lol.

needless to say it rides 100% better.

O and we did the leaky master cylinder (clutch) too...piece of cake...now i have to clean the fuse block




wow thats shocking :laugh3:
 
i put sensatracks on there...and they had a platic nuse on them to keep them closed...lots of "rebound".

the ride is 10x's better...i was gonna do a ome 2"...but i keep forgetting i paid $100 buck for the jeep so i might as well keep it as an "investment" since i know i can get $2000 easy for it

and my "offraoding" will be mostly orchard/ abandend roads (fire trails ect...)

only mod will be 235/75.15 tko's when i need tires...but the michelins have lots of life left...maybee a posi rear.
 
Dragline said:
Ha Ha .... I've got close to 220k on the original shocks. And yes the ride does suck. (especially since I just added Dakota leafs in the rear for about 3" and still haven't replaced them)

Honestly, I think your approaching unroad worthy here.

The shocks are a critical item to maintaining the proper response and reaction of your suspension. Totally shot shocks is far worse than a poor ride, it greatly increases the chances of loosing control of the vehicle. Not only from going over big bumps, but from body roll during turning and lane changing, you can get yourself into a divergent roll back and forth taking you all over the road, especially with a little induced oscillation from the steering wheel, trying to keep up with induced steering of excessive body roll.

Increasing the already high CG, and increasing the spring at the same time, but leaving the damping force at near nil, and most likely with zero damping dead spots, because of shot shocks, your just asking for trouble.

Have you you've given it the steering wheel yank test, without any other cars on the road, because you're likely to lose control?

Shocks aren't a comfort item, they are a critical suspension control and safety item on the car.

BTW, I'm not driving my XJ while I fix it up, until I get the holes in the floor fixed and new shocks.

BTW, Swaybar bushings and endlinks, which usually wear out at 100k+ miles, replacing them usually does wonders for the ride and handling as well. If you keep breaking the end-links going off-road, then get the quick disconnect kits or don't drive on the hi-way without swaybars, they are really needed to keep good control on the vehicle at hi-way speeds.
 
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Rick Anderson said:
Honestly, I think your approaching unroad worthy here.

The shocks are a critical item to maintaining the proper response and reaction of your suspension. Totally shot shocks is far worse than a poor ride, it greatly increases the chances of loosing control of the vehicle. Not only from going over big bumps, but from body roll during turning and lane changing, you can get yourself into a divergent roll back and forth taking you all over the road, especially with a little induced oscillation from the steering wheel, trying to keep up with induced steering of excessive body roll.

Increasing the already high CG, and increasing the spring at the same time, but leaving the damping force at near nil, and most likely with zero damping dead spots, because of shot shocks, your just asking for trouble.

Have you you've given it the steering wheel yank test, without any other cars on the road, because you're likely to lose control?

Shocks aren't a comfort item, they are a critical suspension control and safety item on the car.

BTW, I'm not driving my XJ while I fix it up, until I get the holes in the floor fixed and new shocks.

BTW, Swaybar bushings and endlinks, which usually wear out at 100k+ miles, replacing them usually does wonders for the ride and handling as well. If you keep breaking the end-links going off-road, then get the quick disconnect kits or don't drive on the hi-way without swaybars, they are really needed to keep good control on the vehicle at hi-way speeds.


mine was almost tipping when i turned to the right (at slow speeds) thats why i wantedd them fixed asap...it is unsafe
 
Good post with good information about shocks.
 
Dragline said:
Ha Ha .... I've got close to 220k on the original shocks. And yes the ride does suck. (especially since I just added Dakota leafs in the rear for about 3" and still haven't replaced them)

Ok I have to ask, what year and model of Dakota did you get the leafs off of? I have a 94 XJ and I have 3inch rear blocks that I want gone ASAP, but don't really want to spend a bunch of money on a lift. I have 1.5-2 inch adjustable shackles on the way so I can reach 4.5 inches of lift and ZJ V8 front springs with 1.75 inch spacers ready to go. If you would be so kind, or anyone, to let me know about those leafs. Thanks
 
I think it was a '94 but I'm not positive. Any year that was still still spring under axle should work. BTW, I have hardly any body roll with my original shocks. New shocks ARE on the list, I'm just a cheap bastard. Just for fun, I'll give it the yank test tomorrow and let you know.
reddragon72 said:
don't really want to spend a bunch of money on a lift. I have 1.5-2 inch adjustable shackles on the way so I can reach 4.5 inches of lift and ZJ V8 front springs with 1.75 inch spacers ready to go.
I think if you are going to 4.5" it ain't gonna be that cheap.
 
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Dragline said:
I think it was a '94 but I'm not positive. Any year that was still still spring under axle should work. BTW, I have hardly any body roll with my original shocks. New shocks ARE on the list, I'm just a cheap bastard. Just for fun, I'll give it the yank test tomorrow and let you know.

I think if you are going to 4.5" it ain't gonna be that cheap.

I have been looking through the past posts and all of them talk about rebuilding the pack. My problem with that is the leafs I have are the originals and they are warped and twisted(s shaped). So I'm going to go ahead and get the Black Diamond 3" lift then add the 1.75 inch spacers in the front and the 2" shackles in the rear(the rear leafs only give a 2.5inch lift from what I heard). I am getting the SYE package as well. Get it all done up right. But if the Dakoda springs go right onto my XJ then I'll go that route. So did you rebuid your pack with your old springs.
 
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